And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

[Syph007]

You can use the Antikythera Mechanism gear template.

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Do you follow clickspring on youtube, he is starting to do a build of that mechanism.

[shibafu]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

[Syph007]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.

This stuff is what the other Ti etchers have been using

https://www.amazon.com/Whink-1081-Rust-Stain-Remover/dp/B000LNQNM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485871172&sr=8-1&keywords=whink

[Toolslinger]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.

This stuff is what the other Ti etchers have been using

https://www.amazon.com/Whink-1081-Rust-Stain-Remover/dp/B000LNQNM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485871172&sr=8-1&keywords=whink

What about Multi-Etch? I've seen some YouTubers using it. Not sure what the chemical makeup of it is, but it's supposed to work well for Ti Anodizing.

[Syph007]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.

This stuff is what the other Ti etchers have been using

https://www.amazon.com/Whink-1081-Rust-Stain-Remover/dp/B000LNQNM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485871172&sr=8-1&keywords=whink

What about Multi-Etch? I've seen some YouTubers using it. Not sure what the chemical makeup of it is, but it's supposed to work well for Ti Anodizing.

Bought some but its a pain to work with.  Needs to be heated on a hotplate and has a short shelf life when mixed.

[Toolslinger]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.

This stuff is what the other Ti etchers have been using

https://www.amazon.com/Whink-1081-Rust-Stain-Remover/dp/B000LNQNM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485871172&sr=8-1&keywords=whink

What about Multi-Etch? I've seen some YouTubers using it. Not sure what the chemical makeup of it is, but it's supposed to work well for Ti Anodizing.

Bought some but its a pain to work with.  Needs to be heated on a hotplate and has a short shelf life when mixed.

Good to know.

Stay safe if you go the Hydrofluoric Acid route. I still remember the horror stories my Chemistry teachers used to tell about labs that used it... 

[Huntsman]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.
........

Be careful Syph

Here's a report about a lab technician in Oz who carked it due to HF poisoning - Some good recommendations about how to handle HF in the report!!
http://www.ab.ust.hk/hseo/tips/ch/ch005.htm

[Syph007]

I need to etch the scales to get the higher voltage colors and the best chemical for that is hydrofloric acid.  I found a source but havent got any yet.

Exceptionally dangerous stuff, be careful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid#Health_and_safety
https://web.utk.edu/~ehss/training/has.pdf

Oh I know all about it.   Killed lots of artists who used it to etch metals.   Im only going to use it in the back shed with an exhaust vent.  Its sold as rust remover in the US and I can order it from there.  Noone in canada sells it.
........

Be careful Syph

Here's a report about a lab technician in Oz who carked it due to HF poisoning - Some good recommendations about how to handle HF in the report!!
http://www.ab.ust.hk/hseo/tips/ch/ch005.htm

Ya skin contact is very brutal with HF.  That guy should not have been sitting when working and must not have had the shield down far enough.  Crappy way to go out.

That whink rust remover is far lower concentration than what they would have been using considering this is a consumer product and people use it indoors.  I dont use any chemicals indoors though, all nasty stuff in back yard shed.

[Syph007]

compact deluxe tinker today. 

[4everYoung]

compact deluxe tinker today. 

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I think you may have just created my dream SAK. 🤤 absolutely beautiful!!!

[Fortytwo]

Maybe you have already answered this but how do you get around the problem with the liner "indent" as mentioned in this topic by Gareth?. Even if the real problem (overlapping tools) is only applicable when mixing new and old parts the spring is still thicker than the blade without the indent. Doesn't this result in a wiggly blade? 

[Syph007]

Maybe you have already answered this but how do you get around the problem with the liner "indent" as mentioned in this topic by Gareth?. Even if the real problem (overlapping tools) is only applicable when mixing new and old parts the spring is still thicker than the blade without the indent. Doesn't this result in a wiggly blade?

I make 0.015" phosphor bronze washers to fill out the gap.

[Poncho65]

More beautiful work Syph

[Fortytwo]

Maybe you have already answered this but how do you get around the problem with the liner "indent" as mentioned in this topic by Gareth?. Even if the real problem (overlapping tools) is only applicable when mixing new and old parts the spring is still thicker than the blade without the indent. Doesn't this result in a wiggly blade?

I make 0.015" phosphor bronze washers to fill out the gap.

Thank you, you are always very helpful!

[MadPlumbarian]

Another beauty!
JR

[lister]

Scale tools in metal scales... interesting, very interesting indeed. 

I am not sure that I ever noticed that in your work before now. But I see it is not a new feature. I suppose that there must be a liner beneath the scale to provide a covering for the slot of the tool? And most importantly, can you make a 93mm model with that feature? 

[Fortytwo]

Scale tools in metal scales... interesting, very interesting indeed. 

I am not sure that I ever noticed that in your work before now. But I see it is not a new feature. I suppose that there must be a liner beneath the scale to provide a covering for the slot of the tool? And most importantly, can you make a 93mm model with that feature? 

I seem to remember Syph saying that no, he doesn't use a liner. Instead he makes use of the spring to hold the tool in place, quite ingenious.

[Syph007]

Scale tools in metal scales... interesting, very interesting indeed. 

I am not sure that I ever noticed that in your work before now. But I see it is not a new feature. I suppose that there must be a liner beneath the scale to provide a covering for the slot of the tool? And most importantly, can you make a 93mm model with that feature? 

No liner, since the backspring is bent to accomodate the backtool on the blade layer, I make use of its position to retain the tweezers.   When I convert a SAK to the Ti scales, less liners, its saves about the same thickness as a pliers layer in total thickness and is quite significant.

That same trick cant work on a 93mm since the springs are flush to the bottom of the sak.

Here's a pic of the inside of the backscale.

[Oxford_Guy]

compact deluxe tinker today. 

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That's a 10!

[Syph007]

Ive been working quite alot lately trying to get some orders finished up.  I got these 2 done last night.

The 2 layer with pliers and nail file Im sure is a first for me. 

[Monrogue]

Good stuff

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

[zrxoa1]

I've been trying to read thru this thread, but it is sooooo long!  Good reading but alot of posts!  So if this has been covered, my apologies...

Can you do a bail on the end of one of your creations?

Awesome work, by the way!


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[zrxoa1]

Remember those 154cm blades I had made a looong time ago.. well I finally got one in a knife.

I make the thick spacer out of Titanium, and yes this has a bail with tapered tips to fit in torx T9 screws. 

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Never mind my previous post, found the answer!



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Syph007]

I've been trying to read thru this thread, but it is sooooo long!  Good reading but alot of posts!  So if this has been covered, my apologies...

Can you do a bail on the end of one of your creations?

Awesome work, by the way!


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I havent made a bail yet, but Im sure there is a way.  I think machining one from flat Ti stock probably makes the most sense to try.

[Syph007]

Finally found a guy named Steve to buy this SAK!   

No corkscrew/phillips cutout on this one.

[zrxoa1]

I saw one of your creations on eBay...Is that the normal pricing for your beauties? If so, well out of my reach!   Gorgeous though!!!

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[Syph007]

I saw one of your creations on eBay...Is that the normal pricing for your beauties? If so, well out of my reach!   Gorgeous though!!!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I'd say 90% of what I do falls into the 250-350 range.  Depends on what options people want, and how many SAKs it takes for donor parts.

[Lardlad]

Well worth the cost, the workmanship is amazing.  I have certainly never regretted my purchase.

[Oxford_Guy]

Finally found a guy named Steve to buy this SAK!   

No corkscrew/phillips cutout on this one.

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Very elegant! :-)

[Syph007]

A bit of yeoman action today.