The Smoothie - Metro's ultimate juice.

[Metropolicity]

Highly anticipated, never duplicated, tremendously masticated, The Smoothie (thanks Patrat!), my ultimate EDC LM Juice!
 
The Juice line is one of my favorite tool lines, small compact and light, most models offer a full compliment without weighting down my pants. I've long wanted to mod one to have the tools I want, the tools I am used to having at my fingers. The bane of this mod is the permanent rivets that bind the soul of the Juice together AND the devil made back springs. I began planning how to do this mod while tackling my Splash model, hopping to learn how to assemble something with such strong back springs.
 
To complete this mod I will be a sinner and disassemble a new Juice KF4, which is regarded as one of the finest discontinued Juice tools, except for me...the saw useless. A live in the city and I've used a saw on a MT....legitimately 4 times. Camping is a whole other bag of tricks. From the KF4, I will use the chassis, back springs, inside tools, PE, SE and the infamous Diamond file. In the saw's place will go a pair of scissors from a used Juice S2. I will leave the skeletonize chassis naked (or until I decided to design new scales to go over them)
 

 
My dilemma lies in a final tool choice, there is only room for one outside opening too, a Can/bottle opener OR the Awl. Having converted my current S2's medium flat driver into a stout awl, I am leaning towards keeping the bottle opener to max out this project's potential tool selection.
 

 

 

 
Now, don't get too excited, I haven't done anything yet, but I do have some photos explaining what I have been planning and pondering. Much of the thinking involves the reassembly. While working, assembling and reassembling a Squirt, I learned a couple of things, the easiest way to thread back the pivot on a back sprung tool is to pin one side down completely, then compress the other side to thread the pivot.
 
My plan is to assemble majority of the tools into each handle and leave the pliers till last. This means flipping the blades and how they open.
 
Typically, the blades open and pivot around the same pivot the plier head does. This is bad, I don't want to be compressing blades and springs and the head all at once, alignment would be hell.
 

 

 
Instead, the blades will open on the same pivot as the inside drivers. This will make assembling the entire handle much easier and not under any tension from the back springs
 

 

 
Another major mod that I want to compete is adding a pocket clip. I ran through my cheap Chinese knife collection and found that I had one more SANRENMU 763 than I thought, so I stole the pocket clip. It's a nice deep carry with a good amount of spring in it.
 

 
I plan to use attach the pocket clip with the Plier head down (Wave style), using the pivot to attach it and a pin that is sandwiched in between the clip and body to stop it from rotating.
 

 

 
Here's a couple of pics of the dreaded back springs. They are hard as rock!!
 

 
They sit inside the main chassis, this is the main reason why I am assembling the blades to open the otherway. No fighting, no swearing. The final assembly of the Plier head should be done by compressing the loaded handles and the Plier into a vice and dropping the pivot into place when the holes line up. (In theory)
 

 
 
That's all for now till the weekend, I hope to take apart both tools and at least assemble the handles.

[Metropolicity]

Took a little break today and broken the S2' man was it in rough shape. Happy to see it being used however and extra the bits I needed.



The goods. Scissors and the bottle opener. Unsure if this will be used but nigh as well save it.

[Metropolicity]

Sone more autopsy photos of the kf4. For being a brand new tool, the amount of hidden small bits of rust alarms me.



I even managed to save the scales. I am tempted to return the scales onto it.



Time to polish up the parts and cut some spacers for the longer pivots.

[Metropolicity]

Sanded down to 400 and the a quick polish on the wheel.

[Metropolicity]

Almost there, but that's enough for one night. After polishing the pivots by sticking them on my lathe and with 400 grit and I assembled the tools and blades in the now naked chassis. But not before I sand and polish the chassis!

This is how it would normally be assembled, the blades pivoting on the same pivots as the pliers.



This is how I intended on assembling it. (Note, there is no back springs installed at this point) It's more akin to the Gerber Suspension where ALL the tools open the same way.





Here it's open.





And closed...I am really digging the skeleton look.



Allllll the back springs laughing at me...waiting to get sworn at.



I'll tackle the pocket clip and dream up how how to make a jig for the final assembly. I am still tempted to put back the original scales just because I was able to miraculously save them.

[Gareth]

Looking good Eric.  Very nearly my perfect Juice as well.

[lowtech]

My 2p: Leave it naked!
Otherwise: I like your creative approach of making tools truly yours - and I´ve learned a trick or 2 just by watching.
Thanks.

[stealth007s]

I like it with no scales but I would put the KF4 scales on it if I had to choose.

[Metropolicity]

My 2p: Leave it naked!
Otherwise: I like your creative approach of making tools truly yours - and I´ve learned a trick or 2 just by watching.
Thanks.

Thanks, my main goal is have better tools but also to let others know HOW to achieve such grails!

I like it with no scales but I would put the KF4 scales on it if I had to choose.

I am tossing back and forth, but this is a prime chance to apply my ruler scales!

[stealth007s]

I really like the ruler scale idea


Sent from Endor using Schlapatok

[enki_ck]

Nice. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

Also, I would keep the outside tools as you did, but would the big flathead with some kind of bottle opener. There isn't a lot of material on it so I'm not sure one could be ground out of it but I'm sure you'll think of something.

[Metropolicity]

Nice. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

Also, I would keep the outside tools as you did, but would the big flathead with some kind of bottle opener. There isn't a lot of material on it so I'm not sure one could be ground out of it but I'm sure you'll think of something.

I am wanting to keep the bottle opener too but I am still not finalize on the tool selection.

[Mercury]

Awesome mod eric!  I cant wait to get my shop set back up so I can start modding (tearing perfectly good tools apart) again!   I need to learn, and your threads help a ton.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using crapatalk two point oh.

[Metropolicity]

Awesome mod eric!  I cant wait to get my shop set back up so I can start modding (tearing perfectly good tools apart) again!   I need to learn, and your threads help a ton.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using crapatalk two point oh.

Always here to help. I am still thinking of a way to compress the back springs, I am thinking a Y or triangle shaped tool that I slide into the slots and then compress slowly in a vice.

[nuphoria]

I really love the idea, and have often wanted scissors on my KF4, but my issue is that I don't actually like Juice scissors!

Had you consider modding something like Vic 91mm scissors instead?

[Metropolicity]

I really love the idea, and have often wanted scissors on my KF4, but my issue is that I don't actually like Juice scissors!

Had you consider modding something like Vic 91mm scissors instead?

its not really possible. the Vic scissors are a tad longer. And the useable material that you can use for a pivot area is nulled if you cut it off to fit them in.

Also, the width of the scissors is too wide.

I suppose you could grind off some of the scissor blades, make them more Spirit Style.

[AimlessWanderer]

Looking good Eric  As for scales ... have you considered G10? 

[Metropolicity]

Looking good Eric  As for scales ... have you considered G10? 

I have and it's possible but it's really hard to work with!

[AimlessWanderer]

Looking good Eric  As for scales ... have you considered G10? 

I have and it's possible but it's really hard to work with!

Now that wouldn't stop a man like you, would it? 

[Metropolicity]

Looking good Eric  As for scales ... have you considered G10? 

I have and it's possible but it's really hard to work with!

Now that wouldn't stop a man like you, would it? 

I'll see about doing ONE side in g10. It would solve my pocket clip rotation problem too. The other side I can do in SS rulers. Hmmm

[AimlessWanderer]

Looking good Eric  As for scales ... have you considered G10? 

I have and it's possible but it's really hard to work with!

Now that wouldn't stop a man like you, would it? 

I'll see about doing ONE side in g10. It would solve my pocket clip rotation problem too. The other side I can do in SS rulers. Hmmm

That's the spirit ... oh no, it's a juice isn't it -sorry

 

[35Studio]

Looks amazing.
If you do end up with scales back on it, would you have any interest in milling out a slot and putting in a tritum locator?  I saw one on a SS(possibly Ti) modded SAK scale and it looked amazing.

[Metropolicity]

Looks amazing.
If you do end up with scales back on it, would you have any interest in milling out a slot and putting in a tritum locator?  I saw one on a SS(possibly Ti) modded SAK scale and it looked amazing.

I've never been a tritium wagon jumper. It looks cool but it really doesn't do anything for me. Now...milling out a slot for a pen, or larger  tweezers or a poking stick, now you are talking.

[Metropolicity]

Yeah! The battle of the back springs is no more..I finally figure out how to do it and I suspect that this is how leatherman does it too.

Instead is fighting and trying to compress the springs, I notice that you can slide it in AFTER the pivots are done up/installed. They slide in and then with a very strategic tap with a tool or slow push in with a vice, it's actually quite easy!!

Since I didn't have to fight the springs, I returned normal position of the blades/tools to open on the same side as the pliers.

Here's a photo essay of how I did it

After assembling and tightening the tools to the right tension, I started with installing the back springs of the blades. The blade back springs do not have a ridge in the middle, the stepped flat portion nests in the outer frame back spring rest.



Sliding the spring into the slot and slightly open the blade to catch the very start of the cam.



Then push it in more while simultaneously closing the blade a bit. There will be some resistance, but as long as you hold the blade closed the spring seems to stay in place. I also think an elastic band or a hobby clamp will help this help step.



I then used a spare back spring (a nail or punch will do) to tap it lightly until it seated into place.



I repeated this step three more times, the scissor/awl/can opener is very similar, but the only difference is that both the scissors and the awl/can opener has to be held closed too. The scissor also uses the two thinner back springs instead of the single one. The scissor spring arm needs to be separate.

--

The plier/inside tool ones are very similar but I needed the help of a couple of hobby clamps to keep the tool held closed.



This side is the Phillips driver so there are only two springs. The other side has three for each of the flat drivers. I had to make a tool that covered the springs to tap them in place. They need to be seated all at once, not one by one (they will fly out at your face if you don't)





Bingo!









I think I am going to see about designing some Splash style steel scales that incorporate back spring rests!

[Metropolicity]

smoooothing on some more smoooothie scales.
 

 
The little tabs you see in the next photo are the back spring rests so I don't have use the outer skeleton chassis. I also revised these already to have an integrated washer which seems to smooth things out considerable.
 

 
Lets see how much it is to print in plastic first (but not install the back springs). I already increased the distance of the pivot holes by .2mm as per my experience with the Splash (to account for the shrinkage)

[lowtech]

Although i quite like the looks of the skeletonized handles, I´m looking forward to your own scales.

[Metropolicity]

Although i quite like the looks of the skeletonized handles, I´m looking forward to your own scales.

Thank! I am going to get a set if plastic printed for fit. If that is go, the stainless ones won't be far behind. I can't wait to have a whole set of custom scales (I plan to make some for a Surge and mill the chassis down)

[lowtech]

Now we´re talking. and if you are at it, maybe you could offer them in a kit with precision fabricated shims to reduce the clatter of the Surge and a nice milled down Bluntnose head... 

I´m waiting what´s there to come for my surge...

[Metropolicity]

Now we´re talking. and if you are at it, maybe you could offer them in a kit with precision fabricated shims to reduce the clatter of the Surge and a nice milled down Bluntnose head... 

I´m waiting what´s there to come for my surge...

That's a whole other project. I need to see how the stainless steel scales for the juice scales up.

I purposely started with the Squirt to see if such things could be done. The Surge scales redo will be a huge challenge, since there is no precedent or anything to work off of. 

Since the Charge TTi is what I am emulating, there is no reason to design scales for it

For the record, the Surge chatter is due to the frame of springing back, if you squish the gap for the plier head if you disassemble, it will GREATLY reduce the chatter.

I wonder if Leatherman is watching....are you?

[stealth007s]

I'm willing to bet that LM has 24/7 surveillance on you bro!¡! Along with hidden cameras and wire taps at MQB