Removing advertising etchings from MT's

[MultiMat]

This has been a problem of mine for a while. The only "branding" I want on my MT is the company that made it. I have had a LM Pulse for a couple of months & I never really liked that on one handle it had " Microsoft Windows Server2003"
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/df341da6.jpg[/img]]                       
I have already bought a rust eraser from Ebay US(2 weeks away ) to try & debrand the Pulse , but I am a inpatient bugger & I thought I would give my Dremal a go with the cotton/felt polishing attachment & some automotive machine polishing cutting compound
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/45e7a21a.jpg[/img]]
The technique that worked the best for me, was too put some cutting compound in a tin lid & then apply a small amount on the branded area of the MT, then a small amount on the face of the polishing attachment. Using my finger too apply small amounts of polish( cutting compound) . It is important not to apply too much as it can get messy & it is important to try & avoid getting the gritty substance stuck in the pivots & various nooks of the MT as it is abrasive. The actual polishing technique I used involved holding the Dremal like a pencil & applying slight downward pressure & then starting the Dremal on it's slowest speed , by doing this you avoid splattering the polish everywhere. Frequently wiping the surface with a rag & re-applying the polish ,I used the slowest speed for the whole process ,only varying the downward pressure I applied . Photos to follow                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

[MultiMat]

After 10mins I was surprised to get too this point.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/585379ee.jpg[/img]]
I started very conservatively as I was unsure how it would turn out. I am really happy with the finished outcome , the etching is completely gone . That side of the tool is a lot more shiny than the rest of the tool , it reminds me of a Swisstool  . In day light the polished surface looks a bit cloudy in spots but I am sure it would come out with a less aggressive polish if I wanted too , but I wont 
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/8fd0220d.jpg[/img]]
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/3bce7620.jpg[/img]]

[MultiMat]

So from this 
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/5fc1350a.jpg[/img]]
To this 
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/65791266.jpg[/img]]
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll287/multimat426/multitools/87774683.jpg[/img]]
In closing I would recommend this technique for sure. Tips go slow ,use small amounts of polish/cutting compound & give the tool a really good clean when finished to get rid of any errant cutting compound from pivots etc.Also Dremal has its own cutting compound but I could not be arsed driving 30mins to the hardware store to get it .It would be interesting to see how that worked. 

[eodtech]

Looks easier than the 1000 grit paper job I did on mine for a couple hours, good job.

[kwakster]

I use a rubber block with medium sized grit in it, and it comes in very handy when tools are lightly scratched as a treatment with this block almost restores the metal to factory finish, the end result is just a little finer.
An advantage for me is that no part of the tool becomes polished.

I use the block to even out or completely remove scratches, hardened glue and paint.
A couple of weeks ago i had a repairjob that still had faint black lettering which the block completely removed.

The green block measures 6,5 X 4,0 X 2,0 centimeters, but i don't know the brand.

[J-sews]

Great tips gentlemen!

[ultimaonliner]

Great advice from MultiMat and Kwakster!

I was thinking of using the Dremel, but now I'm kind of interested in Kwak's "rubber block".  Where can I get this block?  Home Depot?

As for the Dremel, the natural thing to do is maybe just polish the other handle on that Pulse..?

[MultiMat]

Great advice from MultiMat and Kwakster!

I was thinking of using the Dremel, but now I'm kind of interested in Kwak's "rubber block".  Where can I get this block?  Home Depot?

As for the Dremel, the natural thing to do is maybe just polish the other handle on that Pulse..?

I am happy the way it is , just glade to have uninstalled  Windows from my Pulse, go the dremal mate.

[Tarrodemierda]

ive used DIPTANK brand,its clear liquid,u just moist a cloth with it,and put the cloth on surface that has the unwanted print,and some plastic upon it to prevent the gases rise up,let it be for an hour and just wipe the printings away with out any surface damage.

[nezza33]

ive used DIPTANK brand,its clear liquid,u just moist a cloth with it,and put the cloth on surface that has the unwanted print,and some plastic upon it to prevent the gases rise up,let it be for an hour and just wipe the printings away with out any surface damage.

Mate ats wrote on the blade of that knife?

[Pacu]

What do you have against Microsoft  Server 2003?  I'm calling Bill Gates right now to tattle.

[Grant Lamontagne]

Great advice from MultiMat and Kwakster!

I was thinking of using the Dremel, but now I'm kind of interested in Kwak's "rubber block".  Where can I get this block?  Home Depot?

As for the Dremel, the natural thing to do is maybe just polish the other handle on that Pulse..?

I am happy the way it is , just glade to have uninstalled  Windows from my Pulse, go the dremal mate.

Now you should go out and have Linux etched on it! 



Def

[Whoey]

[Benner]

Looks like you did a great job on that Pulse buddy. 

[mcniac]

much better now! i wonder if the mt had some kind of hungup while it had win2003 installed :-P

btw if you want to give that part of the handle the same finish than the other you can probably use some of the scotch brite Heavy Duty Scouring Pad, they come in many grits i would use a 400 or 600 grit , and use em in one direction only



Linux Rules!

Esteban

[ultimaonliner]

What exactly gives the steel that blackish color that's used on that Microsoft Windows Server 2003 imprint?

To my naked eye, it looks like black oxide on the surface.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I may be wrong about this, but I believe it is burnt steel.  The laser used in the etching process burns the steel with such precision that you can make fine lines and patterns necessary to make up logos and letters.

Def

[MultiMat]

When I polished the Windows out the polish went a black color . The etched surface felt flat too touch so Def's theory sounds right.

[ultimaonliner]

Well, maybe if one doesn't want to polish it out, they could get somebody to just blacken all of the handles


Or like an unwanted tattoo, just change the "Microsoft Windows Server 2003" to "Microsoft Windows Server 2003 Blows" or "Microsoft Windows Server 2003 Made Me Bald", etc.

[Whoey]

How about:
Microsoft Windows Server 2003 killed my inner child

[ultimaonliner]

I just did a few minutes of googling and I think it's possible for you to do what we were joking about... I think you can add words, letters, graphics, etc to the rest of the steel.


Here's a forum on people interested in metal finishing:

http://www.finishing.com/Letters/index.html


Here's something I found on the web:

Metal Etching Tips
Just a few for now, looking for more.


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Whatever you do, do *not* pour the used ferric chloride (or any other etching chemical) down the drain. Take it to a household hazardous waste depot. If you can't find or get to one,  don't even think of using the chemicals.


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Use heavy rubber gloves and safety goggles, in a *well* ventilated area. It's a massive oxidizer, and can break down a vast collection of molecules given time, including skin.

Read the chemical fact sheet that comes with it.  Make sure you understand it. If it doesn't come with a fact sheet, don't buy it.

Do not mess with these chemicals if you don't understand it.  This is not for play.


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Etching Chemicals
You can etch steel using muriatic (hydrochloric) acid but I *DON'T* recommend it if you don't have any experience with dangerous chemicals.

Another option is to use a metal that etches with ferric chloride. It's not nearly as dangerous.  You still need to use proper precautions. It gives a nice clean bite, clear, precise designs and needs no special equipment. All you'll need is something to resist it with to create the design.

Of course the whole allergy thing is an issue if you use copper alloy metals which is what ferric chloride works best on.

==Lenita

Ferric chloride will still work wonders on most stainless steels for etched designs; there's enough nonferrous metals in there to do the job. You can get it at electronics shops. As for an etch resist, any enamel finish or paint will work, including nail polish (if the etch resist prices at Radio Shack scare you). Just paint where you don't want the stuff to etch and eat into the metal, leave bare where you do. It won't work fast, so have patience (some of my best results came from an etch bath of over four hours).

It's not seriously nasty and corrosive to the skin like muriatic acid or nitric acid, but still unpleasant, toxicly speaking. Use heavy rubber gloves and safety goggles, in a *well* ventilated area. It's a massive oxidizer, and can break down a vast collection of molecules given time, including skin. Read the chemical fact sheet that comes with it (if it doesn't come with a sheet, don't buy it).

Whatever you do, do *not* pour the used ferric chloride (on any other etching chemicals) down the drain. Take it to a household hazardous waste depot. If you can't find or get to one, for gods sake don't even think of using it.

==Adam

(who spent a good chunk of his career as a silver- and goldsmith before hitting the leather trail

Radio Shack doesn't sell the etch resist at all anymore, even online. Your best bet is an PCB/electronic circuit board shop. I bought a gallon of it from a company online. You can get anything from pints to 55gal barrels, although I don't think your pieces are that big.

==Lenita

[Poncho65]

Congrats on dewindowfying  your Pulse MM it looks great

I used one of the Erasers that he (MM) was waiting on to take Windows off my Pulse it worked rather nice as well

I believe that my Eraser is very similar to the rubber block that Kwakster has shown pics of but can't be for sure

Good thread Multi-Mat

[MultiMat]

Congrats on dewindowfying  your Pulse MM it looks great

I used one of the Erasers that he (MM) was waiting on to take Windows off my Pulse it worked rather nice as well

I believe that my Eraser is very similar to the rubber block that Kwakster has shown pics of but can't be for sure

Good thread Multi-Mat

Thanks Ponch , I am still keen to see how the eraser you recommended goes on scratches etc. It is such a pain  waiting on things coming from the States , the S2 I bought has been 3 weeks waiting & still no Juice 

[Poncho65]

Never know the eraser may tone down the shine on the Pulse to match the other handle

Yeah I get frustrated after a week and I live in the States I can't imagine more than that it must be awful

[Pacu]

Just out of curiosity....did Leatherman make Pulses w/o Microsoft etching?          jk

[joebw]

Hi Pacu,

Yes, Leatherman made Pulses without the M-S etching. 

Best - Joe