Thinking About a Mora: Suggestions?

[django.cj]

They take a scary edge too! 
They work hard without complaint.  My only issue is how quick they start to rust after getting wet.  Make sure it's DRY DRY DRY and oiled before being put away.

[turnsouth]

My pocket sharpener arrived today, got the DMT F70F because I didn't have a pocket sharpener that would handle a Scandinavian Grind.

I ran the blade across it a few times, and I must say that sharpening a Scandinavian Grind almost feels like cheating. I'm thinking that a blindfolded blind man could put a good edge on one of these.

Also, this is my first "diamond stone" (I do have rods, but no flat diamond stones), and I had no idea how well they cut the metal compared to a traditional one. I'm thinking that I may retie my GATCO in favor of the Lansky diamond set. Time to save my pennies...

One caveat though, with the DMT F70F having the diamond surface right out to the very edge, all it takes is a slight rub to scratch the blade surface (at least with the carbon steel)
 

[turnsouth]

They take a scary edge too! 
They work hard without complaint.  My only issue is how quick they start to rust after getting wet.  Make sure it's DRY DRY DRY and oiled before being put away.

Yea, I'm starting to notice that with just handling that the tiny imperfections of the blade surface are starting to darken. I think that I may get the vinegar out and patina the blade.

Anyone have any experience with this preventing rust on these blades?

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

A patina will protect a blade from developing orange rust to an extent, but you still have to keep it dry and wipe it down with oil occasionally.

[turnsouth]

A patina will protect a blade from developing orange rust to an extent, but you still have to keep it dry and wipe it down with oil occasionally.

Thanks 

Like the Kydex 

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

Thanks...that's home-squeezed Spork-dex 

[django.cj]

They take a scary edge too! 
They work hard without complaint.  My only issue is how quick they start to rust after getting wet.  Make sure it's DRY DRY DRY and oiled before being put away.

Yea, I'm starting to notice that with just handling that the tiny imperfections of the blade surface are starting to darken. I think that I may get the vinegar out and patina the blade.

Anyone have any experience with this preventing rust on these blades?

I use a very light coat of gun oil on mine, just a drop or two rubbed all over.  It works well.
The rust/discoloring isn't bad, when it happens (usually after camping) I just use a scotch-brite pad to buff it out.

[Spork, Lord of Lime Jello!]

I use mineral oil because it is food safe.

[turnsouth]

Well I've decided on the vinegar patina, got is soaking right now. Wife gave me that "you're nuts" look when I was sizing up a cup to put it in.

Interesting that when I first dipped it in the vinegar, I pulled it out a few seconds later and some areas began to instantly oxidize.

I'll post a finished pic later.

[jekostas]

Well I've decided on the vinegar patina, got is soaking right now. Wife gave me that "you're nuts" look when I was sizing up a cup to put it in.

Interesting that when I first dipped it in the vinegar, I pulled it out a few seconds later and some areas began to instantly oxidize.

I'll post a finished pic later.

The other thing you could try is carnauba wax.  $6 at a woodworking store for some pure wax will give you enough to last for... many lifetimes on a knife blade.  It's also food safe (M&Ms are coated in the stuff).

[turnsouth]

Patina pics:

[Sean]

They do turn pretty grey when done that way.
You might take a bit of steel wool or some other
Light abrasive and take some of it off?  It will give
It more of a vintage antique look?