Leaning toward all alox?

[cbl51]

I've been carrying a SAK now for forty some years now, and it's always been a mix of cellidor and alox. There's been some trade offs, some gifted away, one lost in action in the Gulf of Mexico. An old huntsman, a tinker, spartan, a couple of recruits that I keep giving away to needy people who don't have a SAK. But I've noticed over the years, I tend to have less and less of the plastic handle SAK's and more alox. Pioneer, Wenger SI, cadet, secretary, Wenger patriot. Now I find myself phasing out my camper that is my woods knife, for a farmer.

I've really come to love the bombproof feel of the alox. The Sherman tank like reliability.

Anyone else lean toward the alox?

[AimlessWanderer]

Not really ... but ...

I only ever pocket one alox - a black Pioneer, but I do have a Harvester in a kit I carry sometimes. I also have an alox rambler which never seems to get much use, though I don't want to part with it. I keep telling myself I've not found the right pairings for it  Beyond that, alox doesn't appeal so much

All my key ring carry is celidor, and then there's the 70's Outdoorsman, 84mm Golfer and a Yeoman that get frequent pocket carry - more frequent than the Pioneer. There's also the Compact in a FAK, Tool Chest in the car, Cybertool in a Maxped organiser, Explorer in EDC bag ... and so on, and so on ...

The "but" is that two of my most carried SAKs are stainless scaled Wengers. A Traveller and a Pocket Tool Chest - so whilst most of my SAKs are celidor, two of the most carried are metal scaled - just not alox

[waveman19]

I agree, the feel is just superior, to me. If Victorinox decided all Swiss Army Knives built from now on were to be made with Alox scales, with only a few cellidor models, that would be fine by me.

[sir_mike]

I have only one SAK that isnt Alox and it is the Rambler that is on my keychain.  The reason for that is because I use the tweezers and toothpick alot, otherwise I would have an Alox Rambler.

My Alox collection (so far) is the Pioneer, Pioneer Rancher, Electrician, Farmer, Solo, Apprentice, Cadet II and a Classic.

All mine are in the silver Alox.....keeping it simple! 

[kkokkolis]

All SAK's could be made with Alox and maybe Swiss engineers might find a way to make them T&T capable. It not one could just get a Swisscard to complement the bigger SAK.
The tactile feeling of alox is unbelievable.

[Taxi Dad]

let your mind run wild for a moment.... imagine a silver alox swisschamp WITH tweezers toothpick and pen still in their 'proper' place 

[magentus]

let your mind run wild for a moment.... imagine a silver alox swisschamp WITH tweezers toothpick and pen still in their 'proper' place 

Or an Alox Huntsman. 

[AimlessWanderer]

let your mind run wild for a moment.... imagine a silver alox swisschamp WITH tweezers toothpick and pen still in their 'proper' place 

Or an Alox Huntsman. 

  I think I'd still go with celidor personally 

[magentus]

let your mind run wild for a moment.... imagine a silver alox swisschamp WITH tweezers toothpick and pen still in their 'proper' place 

Or an Alox Huntsman. 

  I think I'd still go with celidor personally 

50, is it Alox you're not that keen on, or are you more in favour of cellidor? Would you take stainless over cellidor?


I like cellidor, but I also like the strength etc provided by Alox

[AimlessWanderer]

let your mind run wild for a moment.... imagine a silver alox swisschamp WITH tweezers toothpick and pen still in their 'proper' place 

Or an Alox Huntsman. 

  I think I'd still go with celidor personally 

50, is it Alox you're not that keen on, or are you more in favour of cellidor? Would you take stainless over cellidor?


I like cellidor, but I also like the strength etc provided by Alox

Bloody good question mate, and I'm not sure I know the answer. Maybe I prefer smooth scales (which the Wengers are) over the textured grip of the alox. Maybe it's just because I'm so used to alox not being the tools I need them to be (no scissors, corkscrew or scale tools). I've never had a problem with celidor - if the scales crack they can be replaced easily, if scale tools go missing - same deal. If alox delivered all those things, would I prefer alox hard to say. I think I just never got bit by the alox bug 

There's nothing I particularly dislike about the alox scales themselves, but I'm quite happy with the warmth and feel of celidor ... just like I am with the other materials used. I wouldn't feel any increased desire for SAKs if they switched to S30V for example - probably less actually. It's prob a case of "if it ain't broke - don't fix it" I suppose

[magentus]

I know what you mean about the 'feel' of cellidor. Warm and smooth. That, along with the lack of scissors and T&T are what I don't like about Alox.

I guess it's the same perenial issue with SAK's; There's no one perfect knife, but a ton of 99%'ers.

If I had to choose between my Farmer and my Huntsman I guess I'd go for the Huntsman because of it's extra utility, but I love the chunkiness of the Alox tools.

[AimlessWanderer]

I know what you mean about the 'feel' of cellidor. Warm and smooth. That, along with the lack of scissors and T&T are what I don't like about Alox.

I guess it's the same perenial issue with SAK's; There's no one perfect knife, but a ton of 99%'ers.

If I had to choose between my Farmer and my Huntsman I guess I'd go for the Huntsman because of it's extra utility, but I love the chuniness of the Alox tools.

 

It's all personal taste ... again 

... and for me personally I think this ...



... beats this ...



 

(images purloined from wherever I could find them  )

[kkokkolis]

When you use a bigger SAK as I usually do, a Swisschamp or a Cybertool 41, then your tactile feedback comes from the steel tools rather than the Cellidor.
I used my red or black Cellidor Swisschamps for decades and my memories are always from the cold steel feeling at hand. I also used an old Cadet with striped alox. Just recently I opened up with translucent Cellidors (beautiful, both blue and red), soft Cellidor (even more beautiful and great feeling) and waffled alox (while staring at it or caressing it I feel like a pervert!). Nice to have options.
A 93mm 4+ level Alox SAK would be nice as well as soft replacement scales for our knives. Also a merge of Wenger (locking blade, locking drivers, slip joint pliers etc) with Victorinox patents. It is feasible but probably Victorinox will respect the centennial competitor. This is the Swiss ethos we all love and I am glad they are firm with their principles although it restricts the possible SuperSAK that could combine the best inventions of the 2 companies. I would fall for a 6-8 scaled alox 93mm with locking blade, Wenger bottle opener and carabiner, all the rest from Vic.

[space cowboy]

I have a couple economy models that use the Nylon Handles. It's really tough & scratch resistant IMO. I don't think they can get the metal shield in the Nylon Handle though. I do prefer Alox but, that won't stop me from getting Cellidor models.

[enki_ck]

...Maybe it's just because I'm so used to alox not being the tools I need them to be (no scissors, corkscrew or scale tools)....

THIS


I quite like alox SAKs but the lack of the corkscrew is a major factor for me not carrying them more than I do. It just HAS to have a corkscrew to feel like a proper SAK to me. The scissors problem is fixable, as we've seen in many mods, but I'm yet to see a good one with a corkscrew.   

[Syph007]

For regular stock alox yes, I would miss the scissors and actually tweezers since I use those.  But, once I added pliers and scissors to alox there is no going back to plastic scales and corrosion prone liners.  The pliers outperform the tweezers and make it a wonderful package for me.

[Syph007]

...Maybe it's just because I'm so used to alox not being the tools I need them to be (no scissors, corkscrew or scale tools)....

THIS


I quite like alox SAKs but the lack of the corkscrew is a major factor for me not carrying them more than I do. It just HAS to have a corkscrew to feel like a proper SAK to me. The scissors problem is fixable, as we've seen in many mods, but I'm yet to see a good one with a corkscrew. 

Could be done the same way Bushido is adding the backside phillips to the top.  Backscale cutout, and metal sleeve around the corkscrew to enlarge it's pivot.

[enki_ck]

...Maybe it's just because I'm so used to alox not being the tools I need them to be (no scissors, corkscrew or scale tools)....

THIS


I quite like alox SAKs but the lack of the corkscrew is a major factor for me not carrying them more than I do. It just HAS to have a corkscrew to feel like a proper SAK to me. The scissors problem is fixable, as we've seen in many mods, but I'm yet to see a good one with a corkscrew. 

Could be done the same way Bushido is adding the backside phillips to the top.  Backscale cutout, and metal sleeve around the corkscrew to enlarge it's pivot.

I know. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. Also, I'm not sure it the same could be adapted for the corkscrew, the pivot point would have to be at the center of the tool to enable enough pull force.

[Syph007]

...Maybe it's just because I'm so used to alox not being the tools I need them to be (no scissors, corkscrew or scale tools)....

THIS


I quite like alox SAKs but the lack of the corkscrew is a major factor for me not carrying them more than I do. It just HAS to have a corkscrew to feel like a proper SAK to me. The scissors problem is fixable, as we've seen in many mods, but I'm yet to see a good one with a corkscrew. 

Could be done the same way Bushido is adding the backside phillips to the top.  Backscale cutout, and metal sleeve around the corkscrew to enlarge it's pivot.

I know. I'm anxious to see how it turns out. Also, I'm not sure it the same could be adapted for the corkscrew, the pivot point would have to be at the center of the tool to enable enough pull force.

Ya true.  Seems easier at that point to just make alox scales for 91s, and upgrade the liners.  Which is on my todo list when I get a mill.

[Mr. Whippy]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

[Syph007]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

Oh I will be making a bunch of those.  I already have the checker pattern worked out and old cross + part of it.  I tried to make one by hand, but it didnt turn out so good, it really needs to be CNC milled to I can make all the pockets and recesses just right.

[sawman]

For me, it depends on the size of SAK.  For the smaller sizes, I prefer cellidor, and for larger sizes, Alox.  I currently have more Alox SAKs than cellidor though.

[AimlessWanderer]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

Oh I will be making a bunch of those.  I already have the checker pattern worked out and old cross + part of it.  I tried to make one by hand, but it didnt turn out so good, it really needs to be CNC milled to I can make all the pockets and recesses just right.

Curve ball question ... when taking the tools so far out of Victorinox's design spec with bespoke layouts, torx pivots, and all the other developments - why put the cross back on  At that stage it's made from (mostly) Swiss parts, but it's not a Vic knife anymore. I'm not saying it's wrong in any way - just curious why the pull to rebadge it as before

[Syph007]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

Oh I will be making a bunch of those.  I already have the checker pattern worked out and old cross + part of it.  I tried to make one by hand, but it didnt turn out so good, it really needs to be CNC milled to I can make all the pockets and recesses just right.

Curve ball question ... when taking the tools so far out of Victorinox's design spec with bespoke layouts, torx pivots, and all the other developments - why put the cross back on  At that stage it's made from (mostly) Swiss parts, but it's not a Vic knife anymore. I'm not saying it's wrong in any way - just curious why the pull to rebadge it as before

For the 91s, its really just adding new scales, and the insides can be left alone.  In fact would swapping the scales and not touching the knife itself even void the warranty?  I just like the old cross look, but its the same idea as someone making wooden scales for a SAK and putting a cross on that.  Their trademark is the shield they currently use, not the +.

[AimlessWanderer]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

Oh I will be making a bunch of those.  I already have the checker pattern worked out and old cross + part of it.  I tried to make one by hand, but it didnt turn out so good, it really needs to be CNC milled to I can make all the pockets and recesses just right.

Curve ball question ... when taking the tools so far out of Victorinox's design spec with bespoke layouts, torx pivots, and all the other developments - why put the cross back on  At that stage it's made from (mostly) Swiss parts, but it's not a Vic knife anymore. I'm not saying it's wrong in any way - just curious why the pull to rebadge it as before

For the 91s, its really just adding new scales, and the insides can be left alone.  In fact would swapping the scales and not touching the knife itself even void the warranty?  I just like the old cross look, but its the same idea as someone making wooden scales for a SAK and putting a cross on that.  Their trademark is the shield they currently use, not the +.

I'm sure the warrant would be void, as you'd still have to re-peen it I presume unless you were planning clip-on alox scales  As for the wooden scales comparison - yeah, I've often wondered why people did it on those too  I have a couple of old Sheffield made knives I'd like to take apart and refurbish/rescale at some point, but I wouldn't try to put their mark back on. I even have some parts that never made it to assembly somewhere, so then that goes together will be the first time it ever became a knife 

[Syph007]

For heavy use, the Alox just holds up better.  They don't pop off and don't crack or break.

Syph, if you make a run of 91 Alox scales, I will be in for multiple sets.  Count on it!

Oh I will be making a bunch of those.  I already have the checker pattern worked out and old cross + part of it.  I tried to make one by hand, but it didnt turn out so good, it really needs to be CNC milled to I can make all the pockets and recesses just right.

Curve ball question ... when taking the tools so far out of Victorinox's design spec with bespoke layouts, torx pivots, and all the other developments - why put the cross back on  At that stage it's made from (mostly) Swiss parts, but it's not a Vic knife anymore. I'm not saying it's wrong in any way - just curious why the pull to rebadge it as before

For the 91s, its really just adding new scales, and the insides can be left alone.  In fact would swapping the scales and not touching the knife itself even void the warranty?  I just like the old cross look, but its the same idea as someone making wooden scales for a SAK and putting a cross on that.  Their trademark is the shield they currently use, not the +.

I'm sure the warrant would be void, as you'd still have to re-peen it I presume unless you were planning clip-on alox scales  As for the wooden scales comparison - yeah, I've often wondered why people did it on those too  I have a couple of old Sheffield made knives I'd like to take apart and refurbish/rescale at some point, but I wouldn't try to put their mark back on. I even have some parts that never made it to assembly somewhere, so then that goes together will be the first time it ever became a knife 

The + isnt needed though, I think I just like the look, but it could be anything.  Heck even an engraved photo of MacGyver for a tribute edition!   I would do it in two ways, press on scales that anyone can buy and stick on like current plastic scales, or full conversions with 3 pins exposed, 4th hidden, and all upgraded liners. 

[enki_ck]

I think press on plus scales with would be better. The original liners would enable you to have slots for t&t and pen. 

[magentus]

I think adding the cross is cool - you get to see a unique modded SAK. I'm always impressed when someone does a good job adding the cross. You can also choose which cross to use. Personally I prefer the Wenger to the modern Vic; If I could have my Alox Soldier scales on my Farmer that would be great.

Pedantic though

[Syph007]

I think press on plus scales with would be better. The original liners would enable you to have slots for t&t and pen.

Yes and then I can just make some up and sell them to people to attach on their own.  It's completely doable, I just have a few barriers. Like getting the mill, converting it, and learning how to run it.... sometime in the new year if Im lucky I should be able to make some.  I'll be using 6061 T6 Al, and still having them hard anodized in all the colors I do for 93s, so they should still look pretty sweet I think.  Once the code is worked out to cut them, I could cut the same from Ti, or brass too, to make more options.  Then I can play with anodizing Ti for color options, and then do different patterns, and then and then.....   Too many cool things to try and never enough time...

[gustophersmob]

*snip*

Anyone else lean toward the alox?

In a word, yes