Drywalling a bathroom

[Syph007]

Im finally tackling a bathroom reno I left for oh 3 yrs..   It was gutted and now Ive got the drywall hung and that part was easy.  Now Ive never done the mud and tape part before, how hard is that?  I know it takes some practice to be an expert but im just looking for good enough really.

So how DIYable is that part?  Also do I want the paper or mesh tape, and does it really matter?

[getahl]

Tape and mud are easy, and I'm handy challenged. I've never used regular tape, but have had great success with the yellow mesh stuff to hide the seams. Mud, mesh, a trowel/putty knife, and some sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots after it dries, and you're in business.

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[Grant Lamontagne]

I have no doubt you'll manage the tape and plaster part. I've seen your work. 

Go in small layers with the putty- the more you also on the longer it will take to dry.  Seriously, its an exponential increase in time.

Beyond that, take your time and sand it using large sanding block to keep it all even.

One more thing, I assume you used green or blue drywall for moisture resistance?

Def

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[Syph007]

I have no doubt you'll manage the tape and plaster part. I've seen your work. 

Go in small layers with the putty- the more you also on the longer it will take to dry.  Seriously, its an exponential increase in time.

Beyond that, take your time and sand it using large sanding block to keep it all even.

One more thing, I assume you used green or blue drywall for moisture resistance?

Def

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Yup the green stuff is what I put up.   My brother in law's doing the plumbing but I figure if a seam isnt 100% perfect that shouldn't effect being able to have a shower.  

My wife wants the shower stall tiled with those white subway tiles.  Now that seems like a harder job, I havent decided if I want to tackle that one or farm it out.

[jerseydevil]

You'll be better off with the traditional paper tape.  Fill your joints with compound, push the tape into the compound and smooth it out with the knife, compound over it, sand smooth, prime, and then argue with the wife about the new color.    After you lose that argument, take a signed permission slip over to the paint store and have at it!

[Syph007]

You'll be better off with the traditional paper tape.  Fill your joints with compound, push the tape into the compound and smooth it out with the knife, compound over it, sand smooth, prime, and then argue with the wife about the new color.    After you lose that argument, take a signed permission slip over to the paint store and have at it!

That sounds about right.  She picks all the colors, the only thing I care about is her picking the paint that isnt smelly.  We once bought that kind with the primer as part of the paint and never again.  It stunk for months.  I like that low VOC stuff, only smells for an hour then you cant even tell after that.

[jerseydevil]

You'll be better off with the traditional paper tape.  Fill your joints with compound, push the tape into the compound and smooth it out with the knife, compound over it, sand smooth, prime, and then argue with the wife about the new color.    After you lose that argument, take a signed permission slip over to the paint store and have at it!

That sounds about right.  She picks all the colors, the only thing I care about is her picking the paint that isnt smelly.  We once bought that kind with the primer as part of the paint and never again.  It stunk for months.  I like that low VOC stuff, only smells for an hour then you cant even tell after that.

"Paint with the primer in it" is, for the most part, a marketing gimmick.  Blame Home Depot for that.    The cheapest can of contractor grade paint I sell is self-priming over a previously painted surface.  Now, the products that I handle that are actually marked self-priming are low VOC.  Low/no VOC has absolutely nothing to do with the odor of the paint BTW.  Benjamin Moore's first zero VOC product stank to high heaven!  Anyway, there is no substitute for a proper paint job, by which I mean a coat of primer and one to two topcoats.  A decent drywall primer will seal up the new rock and compound better than any self-priming product will, and also will be cheaper than another gallon of topcoat.  Have the primer tinted towards the final color, especially if it's a darker color.  That will help with final coat coverage.  And avoid flat or matte finishes in a bathroom with a shower.  They tend to have a porous surface, and can trap moisture, leading to mildew problems.  They'll also show streaks from condensation.  I prefer an eggshell finish in full bathrooms, though low lustre and semi gloss are also pretty popular.  One thing to remember though, the shinier the finish, the more any flaws in your joint taping will show........

Just think, usually I get paid for all that info.  You all get it for free tonight! 

[derekmac]

You won't get any better advice than what Tom just said!  I hate hate hate hate hate doing drywall and mudding, so I'm really glad I'm not in your shoes right now!!!


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