Finally completed this custom Golfer 84mm... First time to work with Copper... Finishing could be better...(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jaya_man on November 07, 2016, 02:35:35 PMFinally completed this custom Golfer 84mm... First time to work with Copper... Finishing could be better...(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNice.
I guess this belongs here: My first mod: A bladeless Cybertraveller Lite of sorts.It runs on 3 batteries, is made almost entirely of plastic and liners, and does not like to get wet or dirty. -Tom
Quote from: Rototype on October 29, 2016, 12:03:56 AMFinally got the mini router bits through so here's the first production prototype. I don't know if I mentioned before but I got a big batch of these from the US (I think they were customs confiscations... hence nothing bladeless) - there were over 100 SDs in there so I need some outlet for them, and I have a large block of Yew so it seemed logical to enhance them (many have advertising on them as well, so I really need to change the scales). Surprisingly it seems like most of them have pretty much never been used, despite being somewhat scuffed...The finish is Tung Oil (Danish oil basically) and the problem of how to stop the T&T falling out is a bit of a moot point - my problem is how to get them out easily as the slots are milled to such a tolerance they're actually a little stiff although I expect with use these will ease off a bit. To the gentleman who was asking about custom scales with T&T slots, Yes, I will be supplying these when I get the production sorted out so it runs a bit smoother, PM me for more details. Once I have the production sorted I see no reason that other materials can't be used - there are some very nice acrylics out there for the pen turning market that will quite nicely slice up to make scales... (I'm looking at some nice pearlescent green ones at the moment.. Like the yew Did you oil them before fitting or after? I'm making some wood scales for my Apprentice that I'm planning to finish with Danish oil, and oiling the scales before fitting seems easier, but I'm not sure whether epoxy will stick to the oiled surface.
Finally got the mini router bits through so here's the first production prototype. I don't know if I mentioned before but I got a big batch of these from the US (I think they were customs confiscations... hence nothing bladeless) - there were over 100 SDs in there so I need some outlet for them, and I have a large block of Yew so it seemed logical to enhance them (many have advertising on them as well, so I really need to change the scales). Surprisingly it seems like most of them have pretty much never been used, despite being somewhat scuffed...The finish is Tung Oil (Danish oil basically) and the problem of how to stop the T&T falling out is a bit of a moot point - my problem is how to get them out easily as the slots are milled to such a tolerance they're actually a little stiff although I expect with use these will ease off a bit. To the gentleman who was asking about custom scales with T&T slots, Yes, I will be supplying these when I get the production sorted out so it runs a bit smoother, PM me for more details. Once I have the production sorted I see no reason that other materials can't be used - there are some very nice acrylics out there for the pen turning market that will quite nicely slice up to make scales... (I'm looking at some nice pearlescent green ones at the moment..
Quote from: jaya_man on November 07, 2016, 02:35:35 PMFinally completed this custom Golfer 84mm... First time to work with Copper... Finishing could be better...(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkPretty
Classic SD with brass scales and thin aluminum liners (next to a cellidor model on which the scales are reversed so the T&T are at the keyring end).(Image removed from quote.)
How is the shield fixed? (looks like it is aluminium, I tried tin solder to fix the shield on a brass piece with no success on my side)
Quote from: m47mu74nt on November 13, 2016, 02:54:49 PMHow is the shield fixed? (looks like it is aluminium, I tried tin solder to fix the shield on a brass piece with no success on my side)It's an actual Victorinox shield, removed from a cellidor scale by soaking it in alcohol. A magnet attracts it, so not aluminum. It's just superglued.
My new project.More restoration then mod.I found this Spartan. It was extremely cheap (about 3 USD), but I was not sure, if it worth it. Terrible condition, blue ecoline scales, broken tip of the main blade, dirty, sticky and almost impossible to open some of the tools. I remove the old scales and boil it in water and soap. Then left it for hours in solvent to kill and clean everything. Then I started a second project to help me with this one (diy dremel /rotary tool) but I will show it another day. The second project helped me to reshape the tip of the main blade.I used black scales from old project. I am still keeping the original toothpick. I will use it as a model for a metal one. The scales and tools need more polishing, but so far I am happy with the result.
Blue. Nylon. Scales. !!???!!
Cooool!
This is my first project. I know it is not pretty, It is a prototype of wallet friendly Wenger. I use this knife as a platform to learn techniques like disassembling SAK, etching, metal polishing…I keep it without the scales (it is very thin that way) and I carry it in my wallet for the last 3 months, to check if I am ok with this set of tools. When I have time I will replicate it with better quality and few changes - stainless steel liners, clear etched cross on the blade, bigger hole on the blade for one hand opening…
Love it T-Ganizzle Frankendremel