Essentially they don't snap in or on. It's a one way thing. The bushing has a type of hook to it. If the hole for the scale has any debris at all it won't fit properly. Also when you remove the scales it will drag out a small piece of plastic with it. You must remove this before reinstalling them. It does take a lot of pressure to push them back on, more than you think. The click or pop heard when putting them back on is from where they was before. If it's clean and still doesn't sit right epoxy is the way to go. Don't use thin glue like superglue. It will seep down into the pivot and lock up the knife. Hope this helps.
Quote from: tattoosteve99 on December 10, 2015, 05:09:38 PMEssentially they don't snap in or on. It's a one way thing. The bushing has a type of hook to it. If the hole for the scale has any debris at all it won't fit properly. Also when you remove the scales it will drag out a small piece of plastic with it. You must remove this before reinstalling them. It does take a lot of pressure to push them back on, more than you think. The click or pop heard when putting them back on is from where they was before. If it's clean and still doesn't sit right epoxy is the way to go. Don't use thin glue like superglue. It will seep down into the pivot and lock up the knife. Hope this helps.Just to be contrary, ive had a lot of success using a tiny drop of superglue in the problematic hole on reused scales.
What he said ^^I believe that if the ring is damaged the only way to go is glue. Any (practically inevitable) remaining bits of plastic aren't a good sign; I'd just remove those before trying to fit the scales back for the first time. Should no click be heard then glue. I've done three scale swaps so far, both cellidor and nylon scales and despite the material removed I seem to have had good luck, the scales snapped back on. Only a pair of nylon scales shows a tiny gap in the middle of the knife.Maybe others with more experience will have more info on the matter. One thing about silvertech scales, it appears they are a tad more brittle than cellidor ones but I have no first hand experience with those.
where do you buy the scales?Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Firiki, I think you hit the nail squarely on the head with your comment regarding the Silvertech scales! My process for changiing scales is to heat water to just below boiling, pour in a plastic bowl, place the SAK in the water and let it sit for 5min. Then pull it out, place a small diameter torx into to the T&T holes and gently pry one end of the scale up. Then I use a dulled bladed Wenger I keep for just this (similar to a watch blade) to gently pry up the rest of the scale.I've used this method on dozens of SAKs and have only trashed a few scales. After cleaning up and polishing scales, I've successfully reused them and haven't had to use glue once...yet. However, last night I did three SAKs, one of which was a Silvertech. I noticed the scale appearing to crease/crack when starting to use the torx to begin releasing the scale. So I stopped, added more hot water to the bowl and let it sit for another 10min. The only other times I've had something similar happen is when somebody had glued the scales back on the knife. I was able to get the scales off a bit easier the second time, but I did notice the difference and had the same thought as you ...that the Silvertech scales are a bit different and I think they're a bit more brittle than the Cellidor and Nylon scales.I haven't tried to re-use these yet, but probably will in the next week...should be interesting to see how they work out.
To add to this "Goop" works quite well. Holdthe scales on and allows you to remove and reuse the scales.Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk
Quote from: firiki on December 10, 2015, 12:11:07 PMWhat he said ^^I believe that if the ring is damaged the only way to go is glue. Any (practically inevitable) remaining bits of plastic aren't a good sign; I'd just remove those before trying to fit the scales back for the first time. Should no click be heard then glue. I've done three scale swaps so far, both cellidor and nylon scales and despite the material removed I seem to have had good luck, the scales snapped back on. Only a pair of nylon scales shows a tiny gap in the middle of the knife.Maybe others with more experience will have more info on the matter. One thing about silvertech scales, it appears they are a tad more brittle than cellidor ones but I have no first hand experience with those.Firiki, I think you hit the nail squarely on the head with your comment regarding the Silvertech scales! My process for changiing scales is to heat water to just below boiling, pour in a plastic bowl, place the SAK in the water and let it sit for 5min. Then pull it out, place a small diameter torx into to the T&T holes and gently pry one end of the scale up. Then I use a dulled bladed Wenger I keep for just this (similar to a watch blade) to gently pry up the rest of the scale.I've used this method on dozens of SAKs and have only trashed a few scales. After cleaning up and polishing scales, I've successfully reused them and haven't had to use glue once...yet. However, last night I did three SAKs, one of which was a Silvertech. I noticed the scale appearing to crease/crack when starting to use the torx to begin releasing the scale. So I stopped, added more hot water to the bowl and let it sit for another 10min. The only other times I've had something similar happen is when somebody had glued the scales back on the knife. I was able to get the scales off a bit easier the second time, but I did notice the difference and had the same thought as you ...that the Silvertech scales are a bit different and I think they're a bit more brittle than the Cellidor and Nylon scales.I haven't tried to re-use these yet, but probably will in the next week...should be interesting to see how they work out.
Quote from: nmpops on December 13, 2015, 03:56:05 AMTo add to this "Goop" works quite well. Holdthe scales on and allows you to remove and reuse the scales.Sent from my BNTV400 using TapatalkYou mean this?
Oclip, they are designed to clip on, but not necessarily designed to clip off again the warming is (I believe) to soften the plastic and aid flexibility rather than for expansion.