Cellidor Scales - Reusable?

[sergemaster]

Amici,
I thought I would post this question real quick, since my memory escapes me. But aren't the cellidor scales reusable, or once they're popped they're shot?

I have recently picked up an Explorer Plus that should be arriving shortly. Since it's used, one of the things I plan to do is replace the scales along with some other forms of PCMS. But since it looks like the Nylon scales river has dried up, I do recall having a few cellidor scales lying around from previous projects. If I can use them if they're cherry great, if not, then I'll track down a set.

Just thought I'd ask before it arrives, as so to be proactive and not reactive..

Cheers,
Serge

[irona]

They generally don't fit as well since the plastic holding them on has been basically sheared off, but they work fine - if not better than before - if you just epoxy them in place.


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[sLaughterMed]

If you are careful about removal, you can save the thin plastic "lip" that holds the scales tight to the SAK. but if you are going to go the epoxy route, don't bother, and just rip them off!

[Aloha]

I found that slightly heating the SAK in water, hotter than hand washing temp but lower than hot coffee they pop off cleaner. 

[Oxford_Guy]

I found that slightly heating the SAK in water, hotter than hand washing temp but lower than hot coffee they pop off cleaner.

What about warming them (not too much) with a hair dryer (the new ones too) to slightly soften them?

[Don Pablo]

I found that slightly heating the SAK in water, hotter than hand washing temp but lower than hot coffee they pop off cleaner.

What about warming them (not too much) with a hair dryer (the new ones too) to slightly soften them?

I would think that the hot water can get under the scales where its needed more easily than hot air?

[Aloha]

I have not tried hot air tho the hot water is also good at cleaning the SAK so you get double purpose.  You'll still need to have a soft touch as I've popped scales off only to have them not seat perfectly prior to taking them off. 

I also failed to mention when I reapplied the scales I also reheated them.  I've had luck on 4 SAK with 1 SAK not quite perfect but certainly useable. 

[JamesJ]

I never heat them personally out of fear of melting them too much. But perhaps a soldering iron tip could be used.

I just use the gel-type super glue (less chance of it running into the layers if it isn't watery).

Very small drops only at the 3 snap-in points then install the scales and squeeze it together in a vice with nylon surfaces (so it doesnt scratch the scales)

Could also melt the holes a bit with a solvent like naptha, as has been suggested on another thread. Just be careful not to use more than a drop.

[Rich S]

I'm with James. Use super glue get on the pin sockets. I've done it several times with a couple SAKs and it works fine (for me).
Rich

[jalind]

Superglue (ethyl cyanoacrylate) is brittle when it sets. It's not robust to coefficient of thermal expansion mismatches. That's technobabble for two materials that have different rates of expansion and contraction with temperature changes. In some cases, as with thermocouples and thermostats, the bimetalic strips are intended to have this mismatch and bend as temperature changes. In the case of scales on the sides of SAKs, there is undoubtedly a thermal expansion mismatch. If the adhesive is brittle, it won't accommodate this and will eventually fracture. I've had instances of this occurring in the past, albeit not with SAKs and Cellidor scales.

I don't recommend an epoxy like J.B. Weld or a very permanent glue like Gorilla Glue. An adhesive that's robust to thermal expansion mismatch but will also eventually "give" when scales removal is desired, is much better. I've been using "Welder" by Homax. It's rather rigid, but not brittle, and it's made for gross mismatches between materials. I use it on the tops of the three ringed rivets used to hold scales on, and in the matching pockets in the scales, and am very careful that it's only in those locations. I wouldn't anticipate being able to reuse the scales if removed after this. It depends on their condition afterward. It does allow for getting it off of the ringed rivets to allow replacement scales, although it might take a little work to do that. In any event, I don't consider it nearly as permanent as J.B. Weld, a magnificent two-part epoxy that I've used for other projects, or as permanent as Gorilla Glue.

Some thoughts on it regarding Super Glue (and other ethyl cyanoacrylate adhesives).

John

[Corwyn]

Warm water works wonders (not hot as I melted some gorgeous golden scales like that).

For electrinics (Lite and Altometer) I used a blow drier... it works too, but far messier and less reliable...

[jalind]

Warm water works wonders (not hot as I melted some gorgeous golden scales like that).

For electrinics (Lite and Altometer) I used a blow drier... it works too, but far messier and less reliable...

+1 regarding warm, not hot!

I've read some horror stories about guys who ran SAKs through their dishwasher . . . in the top rack . . . and what it did to the scales . . . with photos of the resulting carnage. Wasn't very pretty to look at.

John

[hiraethus]

I use a fan heater to heat the knives to remove the scales and pay attention to what I'm doing.

When refitting used scales I carefully clean out the inside of the holes to make sure there's no swarf left and press them home by hand if possible.  I'll use a vice if they're hard to seat, and dab of epoxy or superglue if they're loose.  Not had a problem so far.

[cali-SAK-attack]

Don't forget about the Ol' "Chicken Bone Grease" trick ....................   

[cody6268]

I save ones I have that have chipped, in the case when I get a knife that's missing scales or has them melted or something.  I have the scales off my Craftsman currently on my Camper (which came with warped scales in the lot I got it in), and they fit fine.  Both were solid scales from knives made in the late '80s (Craftsman) and mid-to-late '90s (Camper) respectively.

[Thomas Popenda]

I recently just bought 2 SAK's from a owner that has a barn which serves as a Flea market.

The 2 SAK's that i bought is an old Victorinox Standard and a newer Victorinox Executive

The Old Victorinox Standard looks to be from the 90's and bought for 50 DKR = 7,42 USD = 6,72 EUR
The Newer Victorinox Executive is in good shape with normal scratches and bought for 100 DKR = 14,83 USD = 13,44 EUR

I got both of them together for an fair price as the Executive is known to be expensive. 

The Old Victorinox Standard was in a rough shape and greased in the 2 layers and also on the tools inside the scales, which make me take the scales apart.
After a rough cleaning with Dish soap, warm water and some alcohol/cleansing liquid it is much better. I will also give it some Victorinox multi tool oil, when im able to get it at local knife dealer.

After assembling the scales on the Standard, the scale with the Victorinox shield logo is loose. I did use some super clue and put it in the 3 small rivets/holes in the scale.
It appears that it is working. 

The super clue i used is Loctite Super clue available in most offices, i work in.


So from my experience, i would also recommend using super clue, but it's possible that there are better alternatives out in local shops and online.

[Don Pablo]

 

By the way, be VERY careful with the super glue, and use TINY amounts. I think that it can melt cellidor?
I'm sure it works, just need to be careful.
And Jalind in post 9 has very good advice, he knows more than me.

[Thomas Popenda]

Yes i know. I think using too much super clue and it might get the SAK to be too much sticky in the layers and also make the tools not open smoothly.

Here is a picture of my most recent collection, which is still growing