Removing coating from RAT RC3 - pro's and cons

[magentus]

I am toying with the idea of removing the black coating from my RAT RC3 - I guess it is easy enough to do with paint stripper, (if I'm wildly wrong someone please correct me), and I like the thought of this lovely knife attaining a patina through use, but I can't see a purely logical reason for removal. As this is MTo though, logic rarely rears it's head 

I'm not decided yet as it is a good looking knife anyway, but I'd like to hear your thoughts.....

WP_20161109_003 by magpie2112, on Flickr

[G-Dizzle]

I am toying with the idea of removing the black coating from my RAT RC3 - I guess it is easy enough to do with paint stripper, (if I'm wildly wrong someone please correct me), and I like the thought of this lovely knife attaining a patina through use, but I can't see a purely logical reason for removal. As this is MTo though, logic rarely rears it's head 

I'm not decided yet as it is a good looking knife anyway, but I'd like to hear your thoughts.....

WP_20161109_003 by magpie2112, on Flickr

I have 1095 blades both coated and uncoated, and the coated ones cause me a lot less worry. Plus the esee/rat coating is very durable, and while easy to remove with paint thinner, you wont get nearly as much protection with a patina imo. When I'm working with an uncoated blade, I personally become too worried about oiling it. They do look pretty and slice generally better though! Take all of that with a grain of salt, because I overly worry about my stuff rusting.. working on that.

[Gerhard Gerber]

Hi Magentus

I've been asking myself that question for more than a year, in my case the BK2 and BK9.

Every time I see a BK, ESEE or RAT stripped I reach for the can of paint stripper.....and then I remember the YT video that made me forget about it....

Fact is I took out the BK9 last week and there was a light rust on the cutting edge.

My opinion, for these and all 1095 blades, if it's a daily user go ahead and strip it, if it's an occasional user or safe queen probably better to leave the coating intact.

and yet......

Every time I see a BK, ESEE or RAT stripped I reach for the can of paint stripper

Good luck making your mind up. 

[magentus]

G-Doozle, why did you tempt me with that second pic? That looks lush all stripped!

G-G, what is the YT vid you refer to? I'd like to see it too!

The RAT is definitely a user - it would be a crime to not use it. In fact, if any of you spot me not using it please have me arrested.

[G-Dizzle]

G-Doozle, why did you tempt me with that second pic? That looks lush all stripped!

G-G, what is the YT vid you refer to? I'd like to see it too!

The RAT is definitely a user - it would be a crime to not use it. In fact, if any of you spot me not using it please have me arrested.

I just wanted to make your decision harder! Thats the objective here at mto right?

[Gerhard Gerber]

Yes, exactly like that! 

BTW, I didn't have much luck with cold blueing, but a vinegar patina seems to be working quite well on my 5160 blade.

[Gerhard Gerber]

G-G, what is the YT vid you refer to? I'd like to see it too!

Now you've got me, I unsubbed that channel...

Anyway, two Swedish dudes (might be wrong about the country, but definitely scandinavian) that constantly cough and clear their throats, they do knife reviews and some bushcraft stuff.

Their argument was simple, considering their location (and the snow) it would be stupid to remove anything that prevents rust.

Not quite relevant where I live, but a valid argument.


From the sound of it you can go ahead and strip...... 

[magentus]

G-G, what is the YT vid you refer to? I'd like to see it too!

Now you've got me, I unsubbed that channel...

Anyway, two Swedish dudes (might be wrong about the country, but definitely scandinavian) that constantly cough and clear their throats, they do knife reviews and some bushcraft stuff.

Their argument was simple, considering their location (and the snow) it would be stupid to remove anything that prevents rust.

Not quite relevant where I live, but a valid argument.


From the sound of it you can go ahead and strip...... 

Um, but we hardly know each other, and you haven't even bought me dinner. 

[G-Dizzle]

G-G, what is the YT vid you refer to? I'd like to see it too!

Now you've got me, I unsubbed that channel...

Anyway, two Swedish dudes (might be wrong about the country, but definitely scandinavian) that constantly cough and clear their throats, they do knife reviews and some bushcraft stuff.

Their argument was simple, considering their location (and the snow) it would be stupid to remove anything that prevents rust.

Not quite relevant where I live, but a valid argument.


From the sound of it you can go ahead and strip...... 

Yeah that is another consideration. I live in the southeastern US. In other words, when we walk down the street in the summer, its closer to swimming than it is to walking.

[Toolslinger]

I've stripped a few 1095 blades in my time. I've sold a bunch, but still have a few for some photos.

I've not encountered and issues with increased rusting (and I live in Canada) but I forced patinas on all of them after removing the coating.

I used paint stripper and a plastic scraper to remove the coating. Then washed the blades thoroughly before applying the patina. I've used mustard, vinegar and tomato sauce. My favorite result was the tomato sauce as seen on the ESEE-6 .





Another cool one that I don't have pics of was made with vinegar in a spray bottle. Gave it a damascus rain drop like effect.

I find all of them cut better without the coating and I can put a sharp edge on the spine for bush work (scraping wood and ferro rods) that the coating prevents.

[Alan K.]

The RAT-3's cousin, the Esee-3 is available unfinished from the factory so you can look at that and see what your knife would look like. This is polished rather than with a forced patina.

[G-Dizzle]

The RAT-3's cousin, the Esee-3 is available unfinished from the factory so you can look at that and see what your knife would look like. This is polished rather than with a forced patina.

Amazon once sent me one that had been stripped of its coating and had a forced patina and insisted that it was this model. I knew better though because the engraving was the wrong color. It ended up being one that someone had tampered with and returned.

[AimlessWanderer]

Personally I think it looks better with the coating

[magentus]

Thanks for your input everyone.

I have decided for the moment to leave the coating on. I suffer from Palmer Hyperhidrosis, which means at times my hands sweat really badly. Sometimes in the heat, nearly always under stress, and sometimes for no apparent reason. I imagine that without the coating the carbon steel would be likely to rust unless I cleaned the blade thoroughly after use - This is fine and I it's something I'd do anyway, but my fear is that the scales may not properly protect the steel around the handle area.

Any thoughts on that?

[AimlessWanderer]

Smart move IMHO. I'd forgotten about your hidrosis, and you're quite right, the knife could suffer as a result. Leave it as it is 

[magentus]

Smart move IMHO. I'd forgotten about your hidrosis, and you're quite right, the knife could suffer as a result. Leave it as it is 

I have no idea how I forgot 

[Smashie]

Good choice Mags,

I'll add that the coating on my RTAKII has stood up to use really well, in fact it almost looks unused.

[magentus]

  Any pics?

[Aloha]

Glad you decided to keep the coating.  While I'm sure the non coated blade would cut better this knife IMO cuts just fine for what I use it for.  Should I need finer slicing abilities then I can use my SAK of the day. 

My RAT3 still has the coating and it appears unscathed as well.  I got this knife previously used by unknown person or persons.  My HEST was stripped by previous owner and a forced patina was applied.  I've not encountered any issues so far.  I do keep an eye on both edges however and use frog lube on both.   

[magentus]

Glad you decided to keep the coating.  While I'm sure the non coated blade would cut better this knife IMO cuts just fine for what I use it for.  Should I need finer slicing abilities then I can use my SAK of the day. 

My RAT3 still has the coating and it appears unscathed as well.  I got this knife previously used by unknown person or persons.  My HEST was stripped by previous owner and a forced patina was applied.  I've not encountered any issues so far.  I do keep an eye on both edges however and use frog lube on both.   

[Aloha]

By the way I love how the Micarta patinas. 

[magentus]

It's a wonderful material. This is my first encounter with it. I hope it can withstand my hands though! Only one way to find out....... 

[Aloha]

It's a wonderful material. This is my first encounter with it. I hope it can withstand my hands though! Only one way to find out....... 

My hands sweat too.  I think the Micarta will survive and look great in the process.  Maybe as a precaution add some kind of protectant?  I use frog lube on mine tho I cannot say for sure its done anything. 

[magentus]

It's a wonderful material. This is my first encounter with it. I hope it can withstand my hands though! Only one way to find out....... 

My hands sweat too.  I think the Micarta will survive and look great in the process.  Maybe as a precaution add some kind of protectant?  I use frog lube on mine tho I cannot say for sure its done anything.

I hope you can get frog lube on-line because I'm not asking for it in a shop   

[Aloha]

You can always go frog hunting and   

[Smashie]

Here you go

[Toolslinger]

Thanks for your input everyone.

I have decided for the moment to leave the coating on. I suffer from Palmer Hyperhidrosis, which means at times my hands sweat really badly. Sometimes in the heat, nearly always under stress, and sometimes for no apparent reason. I imagine that without the coating the carbon steel would be likely to rust unless I cleaned the blade thoroughly after use - This is fine and I it's something I'd do anyway, but my fear is that the scales may not properly protect the steel around the handle area.

Any thoughts on that?

When I stripped my ESEE's, I took the handles off.

I left them off when I forced the patina, so the tang area is covered.

Before putting the scales back on, I waxed the tang of the knife.

Once the scales are on tight, I don't feel there is going to be much moisture getting in there without leaving the knife submerged for lengthy stretches.

[magentus]

Here you go

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Thanks Smashie  That sure is a fancy keyboard you got there!

[Smashie]

Here you go

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Thanks Smashie  That sure is a fancy keyboard you got there!

Yeah it's the Corsair K95, I like the lighting and the macro buttons for late night video editing, plus its a mechanical key board with IMO you just cant beat.

[magentus]

Here you go

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Thanks Smashie  That sure is a fancy keyboard you got there!

Yeah it's the Corsair K95, I like the lighting and the macro buttons for late night video editing, plus its a mechanical key board with IMO you just cant beat.

I'm hearing grown up talk here Smashie - tell me like I'm 7.  Along the lines of:  It's a nice keyboard with pretty lights magentus.