ZapWizard's Leatherman Free P4 Mods

[Rapidray]

The BDU belt is perfect!  I wish OuterBox had gone with that size for my  IPhone case 

[Bobrip]

Not to hijack the thread, but I would like to see a finer replacement for the file.  It is way to course for my use.   Your other mods look great. 

[Poncho65]

Welcome to Bob

[asorel]

Here I am, debating between the Charge and the Free P4 for my next purchase, and it looks like you've solved the only two issues I had with the Free: the lack of bit driver and (soon) the tiny file. By the way, would there be any issue with removing one of those spacers in the middle of the tool to make room for the bit driver? I was considering keeping the Phillips head, but removing the Prytool, plain edge blade, and the spacer in between those two to get the .26" of clearance necessary to make room for the bit driver. I already carry a knife as part of my EDC so I don't care about losing the plain edge.

[ZapWizard]

By the way, would there be any issue with removing one of those spacers in the middle of the tool to make room for the bit driver?

You can alter the stack-up however you want, but if your referring to the springs, they must be on placed each side of the bit holder, I use the precious extra space they provide. With the springs included, the bit driver takes 0.32" of tool space.
See here for the stackup diagram.

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Small update:
I ordered the newest T-Shank design, it should arrive in the next week or so. Sometimes Shapeways is very fast, sometimes they take a few weeks.

[Poncho65]

Welcome to asorel Zap is good at what he does for sure Hope you end up with a MT you really enjoy

Hoping for the best with the newest revision of the T-shank adapter

 

[asorel]

You can alter the stack-up however you want, but if your referring to the springs, they must be on placed each side of the bit holder, I use the precious extra space they provide. With the springs included, the bit driver takes 0.32" of tool space.
See here for the stackup diagram.

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Small update:
I ordered the newest T-Shank design, it should arrive in the next week or so. Sometimes Shapeways is very fast, sometimes they take a few weeks.

Yeah, looking again at the stack-up diagram, I did mean the springs. I'll keep those in, then, and figure out something else to remove. One more thing, if you wouldn't mind me asking--you mentioned in your OP plans to laser-etch a ruler on the inside of the scales. Obviously, that isn't something you can sell on Shapeways, but how has that project been going? If it's a viable replacement for built-in ruler, I may be willing to eschew that part so that I might fit some of your mods in.

ETA:

Welcome to asorel Zap is good at what he does for sure Hope you end up with a MT you really enjoy

Hoping for the best with the newest revision of the T-shank adapter

 

Thanks! MTs are an interesting hobby, but the prospect of modding them really adds a new level of depths to it. Really looking forward to whatever ZapWizard comes up with next.

[asorel]

Somewhat related to my last question--if you all were to remove the plain edge blade from the Free P4, with what would you replace it with? It's .1" thick rather than .07, so you'd have to use a washer of some sort in order to use one of the tools from the other side.

[ZapWizard]

you mentioned in your OP plans to laser-etch a ruler on the inside of the scales. Obviously, that isn't something you can sell on Shapeways, but how has that project been going?

I put in the plans as the~1/8" of flat space on each side of the scales seems to be begging for a ruler. You could fit a 7" ruler there if you ignore the ends of the tool, or 8.8" if I include the length to the ends.
So we have a laser-etcher here at work. For it to do metal you have to coat the metal in Cermark, etch that, then wash it. So I would need to take apart the tool, and build a jig to hold the scales in place. My CAD models are accurate enough I can probably 3D print a jig.

I haven't done it yet as I just haven't gotten around to it. (Perhaps I should laser-cut one of those.)

Somewhat related to my last question--if you all were to remove the plain edge blade from the Free P4, with what would you replace it with? It's .1" thick rather than .07, so you'd have to use a washer of some sort in order to use one of the tools from the other side.

I am not sure what I would put in its place. I use the straight blade a lot
The good news is that the washers just need a somewhat common 1/8" inside diameter, and you can get precision shims to fill in stuff from McMaster.

[asorel]

I put in the plans as the~1/8" of flat space on each side of the scales seems to be begging for a ruler. You could fit a 7" ruler there if you ignore the ends of the tool, or 8.8" if I include the length to the ends.
So we have a laser-etcher here at work. For it to do metal you have to coat the metal in Cermark, etch that, then wash it. So I would need to take apart the tool, and build a jig to hold the scales in place. My CAD models are accurate enough I can probably 3D print a jig.

I haven't done it yet as I just haven't gotten around to it. (Perhaps I should laser-cut one of those.)
I am not sure what I would put in its place. I use the straight blade a lot
The good news is that the washers just need a somewhat common 1/8" inside diameter, and you can get precision shims to fill in stuff from McMaster.

Gotcha. The disassembly requirement sounds like I couldn't apply it as easily as simply sending my P4 over to a third party laser etching service.

[hbcorpse]

Gotcha. The disassembly requirement sounds like I couldn't apply it as easily as simply sending my P4 over to a third party laser etching service.

There are ways to do a DIY acid etch, if you can trust yourself and/or your hands to transfer the measurements/markings over properly...maybe stick with a quarter inch scale, so as to have less markings to transfer?

[ddogu]

I don’t really have anything to add to this thread other than saying that it’s indescribably awesome and ZapWizard is a legend.

 

[asorel]

Zapwizard, based on your CAD drawings of the Free P4, is it possible to move the four "main" tools around to different mounting points, or is there some asymmetry under the scales that prevents this? Could I swap the locations of the straight blade and serrated blade, for instance?

[ZapWizard]

is it possible to move the four "main" tools around to different mounting points

The free series is totally symmetrical, and the movement profiles are all the same. You can swap tools around as you want. (as long as your total thickness on each side remains the same)
There are two thick washers that are behind the scales, this is because the scales have that raised shiny portion. You just need to keep those in place. The scissors have two parts, if you move it to the other side you will have a hard time griping it to deploy them.
The springs don't have to be dead center to work, they are offset somewhat on the FREE P2, but evenly spacing those is best.

[SteveC]

 

[philo]

Do some of the mods such as the bit drivers you have work on the K4?

[Poncho65]

Welcome to philo Hope that Zap can get back to you on this one because I am not sure

[Matpar_McWolfie]

There are ways to do a DIY acid etch, if you can trust yourself and/or your hands to transfer the measurements/markings over properly...maybe stick with a quarter inch scale, so as to have less markings to transfer?

I'm currently working on a stencil I could make with a vinyl cutting machine so I would have perfect spacing. I'd go the 'electro etch' path instead of acid etch as it is more consistent. Still have to do some test though, the markings are so thin I'm not sure the vinyl cutter will handle it, same thing for the etching process. We'll see.

[hbcorpse]

@ZapWizard - Can you please design a cure for the CoronaVirus? I’m sure it would be elegant and efficient!

[hbcorpse]

Hey in all seriousness, I hope y’all are doing ok during these strange times...

[ZapWizard]

Howdy folks,

Do some of the mods such as the bit drivers you have work on the K4?

Yes. The 4mm and Flat bits fit the K2 and K4. They actually fit the K2 better as it has the same philips/flathead next to each other just like the FREE P2/P4. The K4 might requires re-positioning the awl.

I'm currently working on a stencil I could make with a vinyl cutting machine so I would have perfect spacing. I'd go the 'electro etch' path instead of acid etch as it is more consistent.

Interesting idea using acid etching.

@ZapWizard - Can you please design a cure for the CoronaVirus? I’m sure it would be elegant and efficient!

I wish. Life is a bit strange right now. Working mostly from home these days

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Regarding Rev 4 of the T-Shank holder: The good news is it works great at holding both 2mm and 1mm blades.
The bad news is that to hold 2mm blades you have to install four tiny washers because otherwise the clamp tilts and jams when the tool closes.
Those tiny washers are a pain to install, you need the hands of a watchmaker to do it without issues every time. Not something folks will want to do on the go.

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To that end I have designed Revision 5

This one will use an integral clamp. The metal is flexible enough that it should work well on the 2mm and 1.5mm blades. For 1mm blades, you may need to install a 1mm shim. This can easily be made by just trimming another 1mm blade.
It will still require the two M2 screws, and an M2 tap, but hopefully will end up being the most solid option, and no too painful to change blades. The usable blade length also increase a small amount.
The screws both clamp, and hold one side of the T-Shank. You remove the two screws to swap blades. It won't have the built-in 1.5mm allen key, so I am using the 1.5mm flat bit that comes with the Leatherman replacement set, and carrying it on my holster.
I will be a few weeks till this version arrives.

[Dutch_Tooler]

 

Looking forward to rev 5

Stay safe, all 

[vadsoom]

PayPal standing by.....

[Poncho65]

The last revision looks great, Zap

[mzh.arizona]

Hi, ZapWizard.

I have a different idea for the t-shank - why not just make something that will hold the t-shank and has a flat bit-driver interface - so this would slide into your bit-driver mod and would secure the t-shank blade.

I know it isn't as integrated as many would like, but it would allow the use of full length interchangeable t-shanks.

Just a thought. Thanks for your time and your beautiful fabrication and design work and for answering your customers.
Ron.

[ZapWizard]

I have a different idea for the t-shank - why not just make something that will hold the t-shank and has a flat bit-driver interface - so this would slide into your bit-driver mod and would secure the t-shank blade.

The catch is that you already have to shorten a t-shank blade, if I made a flat bit holder addon you wouldn't be able to store a blade in the tool. Also, the T-Shank needs to work on the back stroke also, so it has to lock to the tool.

[Poncho65]

Welcome to mzh

[ZapWizard]

Rev 5 of the T-Shank is working great. I had the video and product page all ready to go when I realized that I forgot to record how to tap the M2 holes. When I went and did this on the 2nd part (mirrored version) it was quite hard, and I am glad I didn't break the tap. But as always I don't want my customers to end up frustrated or scared to do a step, so I have ordered one more (Rev 6). But due to the pandemic, it will take even longer to arrive. Keep turned in. In the mean time enjoy this teaser image.

[pa_strunk]

Your hard work is much appreciated 

[Mcfal12]

 

Looks great!!!