Working knives

[Real1]

I thought I would post this, because arguing with the SAK people about how wonderful they think SAK's are.....I realized I should put forth what "I" think is a good working/safe knife design.

I have been working with knives all my life outside. I've had something from nearly all the big houses and even the makers who are no longer. Obviously to me, I tend to favor on the side of stout knives that will not break or fold onto my flesh. I don't lose knives because of their importance to my tasks;I keep track of them at all times. What folly it is to leave a knife by a fence post and tell yourself you'll come back later and get it. That's a recipe for a disaster. Or loan it to someone with no end-game return stipulation!

So with all the knives I've used and worn out...."worn out" meaning that it's been sharpened so many times, the blade has that growing divot at the base of the blade.....I offer you the near perfect folder design;
1)The shape of the handle doesn't allow my hand to slip toward the blade, but it not obtrusive in my pocket.
2)The blade has the 'quick flick' nubbin.
3)The spline is sufficiently thick to work without breaking. The blade lock mechanism is underneath instead of on top.(I have three or four Puma folders that if you grip them hard, you will release the blade. Wax poetic about Puma's if you want, but that's a poor design feature.)
4)The knife disassembles if necessary with Torx screws.
5)The knife drop point is perfectly designed for any working task.
6)It has the the ubiquitous blood groove.
7)It is half serrated.
8)Up in the spline is a place for you thumb to add more pressure cutting if necessary.
9)The holes in the slabs allow pocket lint to pass through and fall out. Sheds water faster too.

I can't even begin to tell you what this knife has been through working, including many accidental washing machine adventures because it was still in my pant's pocket. And on top of all that, it was just some BS 'Remington TAC SeriesII' knife made in China.

Imagine if this knife would be made by a custom maker with all the latest materials and quality. Perhaps it's not even an orignal design...that it's stolen. Please speak up if you've seen this design done by a US house in the past!

Kevin

[Real1]

Here's a pic of the spline....I had too many in the last post to allow it.

Kevin

[dks]

How do you sharpen your knives? It is not often people sharpen several knives so much they wear down. Any specific system?

[Real1]

Lansky. I use a medium stone & oil to JUST get the blade sharp and then stop. I've been using their system since they came out. I have tried many others, but always come back to Lansky.

Other than different steels....the thing about blade wear is the choil. That place where the blade edge should stop and you have a hole or gap before the plunge line. Without that(and you can see the absence in cheaper knives) the visible wear on your knife will accelerate. True, you can lessen the effect by rotating different knives into your work days. But I tend to stay with one style until it's worn out and then move on. As far as when I'm not working, I carry any number of folders to suit my mood. Some of them bought back in the 60's.

I should add that the slab/handles edges are rounded from wear on the above pictured knife. They were somewhat sharp in the beginning.....and maybe that's a good thing as it allowed for wear.   

Kevin

[dks]

I use the lansky too occasionally. Good system but a bit fiddly

[Real1]

It is a bit fiddly but pitted against that guy who makes that $600+ system, it does almost the same job. The Lansky really comes into its own when you use their holder mount that screws into your work bench. That reduces about half the 'fiddly'.

What is your favorite sharpening system?

Kevin

[dks]

Proper system is the Lansky (Deluxe with some Diamond stones added), but 99% of the time I just use fine stones, ceramic like the Victorinox one or cheap diamond "stones" to basically maintain the edge on knives.I got lazy.

[Real1]

Nothing wrong with that...I've done that too.  Anytime you can just 'dress' an edge, is better than a full-on sharpening session as far as blade wear.

I have that electric Work Sharp system.....which is nothing more than a knife belt sander. That thing walks through your blades like Ex lax through a goose. Great for replaceable kitchen knives though. I won't let it touch any other knives I have even with their finest belt.

Kevin

[microbe]

It all depends on the work I suppose.
I can imagine a carpet installer's preferred knife is a breakaway cutter that never needs sharpening.
For work use that is less stressing on blades, a regular folding knife even a SAK works just fine.

[Real1]

Carpet/linoleum cutters are a whole different topic. As are tool knives with their strengths & weaknesses.

I'm a fencing contractor and I've also been a journeyman mechanic and a master plumber. I always carry a robust pocket folder and I assure you it gets a workout everyday. Have a collection of SAK's and they will not hold up to what I do....although need to try the ALOX.

For yrs and yrs I carried tool knives in belt pouches. Couldn't be without one. But the better ones are expensive and you get in the bad habit of substituting tool knives for real tools. I've been in many scenarios working with someone where they would pull out a tool knife just to see if it would do the job, when proper tools were available. NOT a fan of that philosophy. OTOH, if you do a repetitive job that doesn't require the heft/strength or finesse of a real tool....then tool knives can fill that need.

Kevin

[Real1]

I see that I'm still in one of the SAK forums....I meant to be in a more general forum.....my bad as I figure out where to post.

Kevin

[SirVicaLot]

Good for you finding your perfect working knife  What works for you, would be totally useless for me. Good thing they make more than one knife 

I am just not sure why you posted this in the SAK sub, as it has nothing to do with SAKs 

Edit: Just saw that you realized that too. A moderator should be able to move it 

[Real1]

Yeah, apologize for that. I respect your opinion though, even if it differs from mine.

Happy to have a mod move the post.


Kevin

[nate j]

If you haven't checked them out already, I think the Benchmade Griptilian would be worth a look for you.

• Shape of handle helps prevent hand slipping toward the blade
• Blade has a thumb stud (some models have a hole in the blade instead)
• 0.115" blade thickness; locking mechanism is on the side of the knife
• Disassembles with Torx screws
• Drop point blade available
• Does not have "blood groove", but that is a purely cosmetic feature in a knife of this size anyway.
• Half-serrated blade available
• Has thumb ridges on the back of the blade
• Does not have holes in the handle, but at least some models have handles that are open on top, allowing water to pass through and minimizing lint buildup.

1)The shape of the handle doesn't allow my hand to slip toward the blade, but it not obtrusive in my pocket.
2)The blade has the 'quick flick' nubbin.
3)The spline is sufficiently thick to work without breaking. The blade lock mechanism is underneath instead of on top.(I have three or four Puma folders that if you grip them hard, you will release the blade. Wax poetic about Puma's if you want, but that's a poor design feature.)
4)The knife disassembles if necessary with Torx screws.
5)The knife drop point is perfectly designed for any working task.
6)It has the the ubiquitous blood groove.
7)It is half serrated.
8)Up in the spline is a place for you thumb to add more pressure cutting if necessary.
9)The holes in the slabs allow pocket lint to pass through and fall out. Sheds water faster too.

[Aloha]

Lansky user as well.  I also use water stones.  Ok I also have diamond plates.  My most used is my strops.  I try to steer away from full blown material removal unless damage has occurred.  I find stropping or the ceramic triangles from my Spyderco sharpmaker tend work well for the steels I have. 

Nice you've found a knife that has worked for you.  I love my fixed blades so those would be my first option for a hard working knife.  I do carry a MT, SAK, and Trad for work as well.  Are you able to carry a fixed blade for work?  Are fixed blades knives you like? 

 

[Real1]

I always saved my fix blade knives for survival trekking. However, I've never brought a tool knife to an excursion. At work I'm about as likely to use the tool knife pliers as I am any of the blades. So, good strong pliers on a tool knife are a plus for me.

I think I tried a fix blade working, yrs and yrs ago and it wasn't a good fit for me. I can see the attraction for some, though.

Kevin

[Real1]

If you haven't checked them out already, I think the Benchmade Griptilian would be worth a look for you.

• Shape of handle helps prevent hand slipping toward the blade
• Blade has a thumb stud (some models have a hole in the blade instead)
• 0.115" blade thickness; locking mechanism is on the side of the knife
• Disassembles with Torx screws
• Drop point blade available
• Does not have "blood groove", but that is a purely cosmetic feature in a knife of this size anyway.
• Half-serrated blade available
• Has thumb ridges on the back of the blade
• Does not have holes in the handle, but at least some models have handles that are open on top, allowing water to pass through and minimizing lint buildup.

Thanks for the recommendation! I did some research on this knife. Opens fast, a lot like my Kershaw Seedsafe, but can close with one hand....cool. Excellent steel and from what I've read, keeps functioning like new indefinitely.

I agree, the blood groove on a folder is more for looks than function. Like on all my folders that have it, the belt clip has to come off. Has a very decent choil to start with....a must on a working knife that's going to be sharpened a lot. 

They are located in Oregon City......which begs the question;is this another knife company like Kershaw wherein it was started by a disgruntled employee of Gerber or Kershaw?

Kevin

[ezdog]

Hardly?

They are a company unto themselves and started making Bali-Song knives in California.

Every Benchmade I have owned is a pretty solid knife and I respect them all for design qualities and Build quality that anyone would be well served to try.

https://www.benchmade.com/benchmade-history

This is one of my Work Knives from them.

Thanks for the recommendation! I did some research on this knife. Opens fast, a lot like my Kershaw Seedsafe, but can close with one hand....cool. Excellent steel and from what I've read, keeps functioning like new indefinitely.

I agree, the blood groove on a folder is more for looks than function. Like on all my folders that have it, the belt clip has to come off. Has a very decent choil to start with....a must on a working knife that's going to be sharpened a lot. 

They are located in Oregon City......which begs the question;is this another knife company like Kershaw wherein it was started by a disgruntled employee of Gerber or Kershaw?

Kevin

[Aloha]

That's a great knife.  Looks to hit a few marks R1 was looking for.  I have a small Griptillion thats been a great knife but not quite what OP was looking for. 

[ezdog]

Yeah the Adamas is a Beast all the way for sure but heavy too!
If you want to break an Adamas you are going to have to work at it.

That's a great knife.  Looks to hit a few marks R1 was looking for.  I have a small Griptillion thats been a great knife but not quite what OP was looking for.

[Real1]

Hardly?

They are a company unto themselves and started making Bali-Song knives in California.

Every Benchmade I have owned is a pretty solid knife and I respect them all for design qualities and Build quality that anyone would be well served to try.

https://www.benchmade.com/benchmade-history

This is one of my Work Knives from them.



(Image removed from quote.)

Interesting story, thanks for the link. I don't see any collaboration evidence with Gerber or Kershaw....but they are right in the heart of knife making country....why I asked. 

30yrs sounds like a long time to most, but when you get older, not really. I can remember when Kershaw started and I bought one of their first fixed blade hunting knives. Handle cracked too and I gave it to a friend. Had lots of Gerber & Kershaws since and still do.

These knives look tough and well made....gonna have to try one.

Kevin

[Shuya]

What is your favorite sharpening system?

Maybe some Mod can split the topic here.

Ive come from the "sharpness lovers corner" or better: the sharping addicts.

Story:
As a young boy I sharpened my knifes on whatever sharpening stone I found, usually the ones my father had in his workbench.
Starting to be a knive addict I bought the usual stuff, beginning with sharpmaker, then Lansky und finally a handfull of water stones (up to 3000grit) and a stop. My blades were polished and could split a hair.
Years went on and the more I work and the less I am obsessed with the knife per se, I became lazy as smurf.
Havent used my waterstones for 3 years I guess. My usual sharpening equipment is my strop on which I place a simple piece of wet grinding paper, 1000 oder 2000 grit, wet it and give my knive a few strops, then use the leather and I am good to go. When doing this regularly, there is zero need for stones, my knifes will shave and the sharpening is done in less than 5 minutes. On trail I usually have a Fallkniven DC3 or DC4 stone in the backpack for quick sharpening.
Thats all.

Think less, work more.

[Etherealicer]

Yeah the Adamas is a Beast all the way for sure but heavy too!
If you want to break an Adamas you are going to have to work at it.

There is a new Adamas for 2021 which is lighter AND there is a MINI Adamas (also new for 2021)... just saying, might be worth have a look at those.

That said. I adore Benchmade, probably my 2nd favourite knife company (after GiantMouse).
I second the Benchmade Mini-Griptillian, very good knife. But it is probably worth to look around for a Mini-Freek. As this is a discontinued models they might be on sale (knifeworks had them for $86, though they are sold out).

And while it does not tick all the boxes, the Benchmade Bailout in CPM-M4 (knifeworks has the semi-serrated version) could be a good choice as well (though a very different blade shape).

I would actually recommend a knife in CPM-M4 OR K390 (Spyderco), I have a hunch that these might be the perfect steel for you and quite possibly that you won't need serration with that (they make a toothy edge, just don't put a mirror edge on them).