My 3DC

[Grant Lamontagne]

I am not sure, I just see different sites talking about making benchys faster and with greater detail than ever before.

As I've never made one, I can't honestly say whether mine is competitive or not

I did however finally finish making this Samhain for Megan. I am thrilled with how well it turned out and I think she is very much going to like it.

If she doesn't, look for me on Tinder!   

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

Another pic with the supports removed.

Def

[Vidar]

That turned out well. Interesting filament effect.

[AzteCypher]

That looks pretty cool especially with the multi color filament.

[Cypren]

I also think using Cura instead of the XYZ Printing software will make a huge difference in setting things up.  I miss Cura.   

If you get the X1, check out OrcaSlicer. It’s an open-source fork of Bambu Studio, which is itself a fork of PrusaSlicer. It does a great job of supporting the bleeding edge of 3D printing features while also supporting all of the proprietary tech in the Bambu printers.

[Grant Lamontagne]

Thanks for the heads up.  I hadn't heard of OrcaSlicer, but I will definitely look into it when the time comes.

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

In my attempt to only manufacture useful items, I have once again tried to do something useful.  Whether I have succeeded or not remains to be seen, but I'm proud of how well it turned out anyway.

My father has an iRobot Looj, which is basically a Roomba for your gutters.  We got it for him years ago so he didn't have to keep going up and down the ladder to clean his gutters.  He's not getting younger, and has a bad habit of miscounting steps on the way back down, so we worry about him a bit.   

Here's the Looj:



It's been working well for him for many years, but as they are long since discontinued, he can't seem to get parts for it.  This goes to show just how unsuccessful they truly are because iRobot has a backlog of parts for all their other models, no matter how old or obscure.

The part that broke is the plastic piece that attaches to the output shaft on the front of the Looj.  It basically is an extension that holds the rubber paddles that flip the leaves and stuff out of the gutter as the Looj drives along. 

Discontinued plastic part? 

This sounds like a job for....

My 3D Printer.

Now, I am far from being a wizard with Fusion 360, but I managed to whip up a reasonable facsimile of the part Dad needs and I am a bit impressed at what I have managed to come up with.  Once I got home from visiting I set about refining the design to add a bit of strength here and make printing easier there. 

Last night I set up the printer, loaded one of the tougher filaments I have (still PLA as that's all my machine does, but not all PLA is created equal), set it to 90% infill and let it go overnight.

This morning I pulled the part off the printer and it is one of the better prints my machine has ever done- I am super thrilled about that, and the part seems to be a lot sturdier than I was expecting.

I'm going to mail it off to my father tomorrow (going to print another couple of them, just in case) and, if it fits, I am going to upload the design to Thingiverse in case anyone else needs this odd part for an expired doodad.

Basically the gear looking end fits on the machine end, and the rubber paddles slip into the slots on the other end.  There are also some whisker bristle things that were on the original, but I don't have a good way to recreate them so I didn't.  There are also some thinner points that I think may also be stress points designed to break (and coincidentally where my father's broke) that I didn't include as I figured the printed PLA probably wouldn't stand as much torque as the molded ABS original part would anyway.

All in all, not an overly complex part, but it was a fun exercise to model it.  I really don't have much experience working with curves, and if I had to do it again, or make a more complex version I think I would make the shaft octagonal or decahagonal to simplify matters somewhat.  For an initial attempt I figured I wouldn't stray too far from the original.

Also, since I didn't put in the whisker segment or the break segments, I figured I could shorten future versions to make them print faster and use less material while still doing the same job.  But, first let's see what works and what doesn't before I start getting all fancy. 

Def

[AzteCypher]

Nice!  That looks pretty solid to me.  Hope it works out.

[Vidar]

That certainly seems to do its part. And there should be many opportunities to reinforce it with metal inserts/ rods/ plates or glassfiber coating if even more robostness should be needed.

(I usually had to do a trial run as prints seemed to shrink a bit compared to the computer file - and different shrinks in xy and z directions just to make things more interesting. I have some camera housing parts just waiting for 4% smaller cameras to be made  ).

[Grant Lamontagne]

Yes, I noticed that the slots in the sprocket were much smaller than anticipated. I may have to redesign it to make them bigger.  I'm not sure if they are functional or decorative.

I'm going to try increasing the size by 5% or so and see if that helps any.

Def

[Farmer X]

That's better than I'd do. Nice work!

[Grant Lamontagne]

I printed two from my original plan then decided to start again from scratch and build it more like the way I'd make it, without worrying too much about how the original one was designed.  It's got the same slots and wings, but I've shortened it and opened up the sprocket slots.  I'd rather it's too loose than too tight.  That is, if anything even connects into them.

Yeah, I didn't take any decent photos of the connection point on the robot.  Rookie mistake.   

Anyways, if nothing else, I built some extra reinforcement into it and used an octagonal body instead of a cylindrical one, figuring it would be easier to cut into, attach the wings to etc.

It was, sort of.  I didn't square the flat side of the octagon on the plane, which meant everything had to be done on weird angles.   

Oh well, I managed it.  The octagon made it easier to create the sprocket end at least since there was eight points to work from.

Def

[Grant Lamontagne]

This is the part, which unfortunately doesn't appear to be in stock anywhere.

The slots on mine are where these flexible rubber paddles slip into.  You can also see the whiskers that I didn't bother with.

Def

[Vidar]

I printed two from my original plan then decided to start again from scratch and build it more like the way I'd make it, without worrying too much about how the original one was designed.

Makes sense. The alternative production process likely has a different optimal part geometry than the original.

I have some resin going out of date soon. I should really be making some stuff.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I keep looking at resin printers.  There are a few things I want to print that are better in resin, but it looks like such a hassle, what with all the washing and UV treating etc.

If you are looking for a way to use up the resin, I have a few projects I'd be willing to share.   

Def

[Vidar]

I keep looking at resin printers.  There are a few things I want to print that are better in resin, but it looks like such a hassle, what with all the washing and UV treating etc.

If you are looking for a way to use up the resin, I have a few projects I'd be willing to share.   

Def

There are some water soluable resins which are supposed to be house friendly. I haven't tried any of them though, as I mostly do wax, abs like and flexible.

I got an LCD and DLP resin printer. The LCD one hasn't been used since the arrival of the DLP - while on paper more precise, the real world result is quite different. The DLP one makes prints far more true to the 3D model - flats are flat, circles are round, and next to no sag, twists or local shrinks and distortions.

There are two key issues with the resins - during printing some smells and the gases might be less than healthy. I think that has come some way though, and I see printers now come with attachments for a venting ducts as well. That would have been nice.. Failing that I have two carbon filters working inside the cabinet next to the resin during printing which removes a lot. And I print under a ventilated hood. (I might still want that even with a duct as you do need to handle this stuff somewhat).

Then there is the cleaning of the parts. That became a whole lot easier and better with these automated cleaning and UV light machines. So now I take the entire buildplate off the printer, throw it in one of the tanks filled with cleaning chemicals and let the machine do its thing. And I boought two extra of those tanks so I just transfer the build plate to the next one with water, do the machine thing, and repeat with yet another one with water. Then pick off and UV light it. (I also got an extra build plate so I can start a new print without waiting for this cleaning process).

In theory I shouldn't have to touch any wet resin, but of course spills and happenstance so happen so gloves it is. And since I have various breathing stuff anyway I use a full gas mask, or more comfortably, my powered air respirator with chemical filter. With good ventilation you might do without any. I used to get a head ache from cleaning these things before the cleaning machine though, and as I have them anyway I just wear them.

Parts wise you also want to make sure the designs are such that surplus resin has a way to drain back and not get trapped in a chamber or hollow somewhere. And orient the parts of the build plate so that it is easy to drip off between layers.

If you have some parts then I can take a look. The resin might be a bit so-so already though - it would help if the parts are Dali inspired clocks.. 

[Grant Lamontagne]

I've sent you a PM. 

I am fascinated by resin printing, I'm just also a bit concerned about it.  Megan already hates my filament printer, I can't imagine also throwing in something that could spill and spells.   

Def

[Vidar]

You need a doghouse for you and the printer..  Actually separate dog houses would be best. Add more doghouses for any dogs you have too I guess. (Although the only place in this world our dog would never ever go was in his dog house. Figures...)

[Grant Lamontagne]

What I need is a bigger house with a (soundproofed and well ventilated) room that I can set up a bunch of different toy.... Uh... Ools.... Toyools.  Yeah, that's it.

I could set up my laser engraver, maybe a few different 3D printers, possibly a small CNC and a spray booth for painting. 

And, so nice I'm dreaming already, maybe a seperate workshop for wood and metal working too.... 

Anyone want to subscribe to my OF account?   

Def

[AzteCypher]

Toyools... I need to remember that term.   

[Vidar]

Anyone want to subscribe to my OF account?   

Are there pictures of tools, machines and shiny parts? (To be fair automatic metal machining and fabricating is kind of hypnotic to watch).

Try searching Dan Gelbart on youtube. His shop and video series are quite amazing.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I feel like you are missing the point of OF of you have to ask what's on it.....   

Def

[Vidar]

Internet has given new meaning to the saying "ignorance is bliss". I'm pretty sure I ignore most of it to my benefit. I wonder though if I might be particularly blessed ignoring any pointy bits on OF?

OF might not be ready for machining, grimy grease and automated motions.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I have comments, but as this is a family forum, it's bet if I keep them to myself!   

Getting back to topic, I had originally designed the end that connects to the Looj as circular because that's what it appeared to be on the Looj itself.  After doing some more research I realized that it should be a square socket.  Since I wanted to enlarge the sprocket slots anyway, I redesigned that end.  It's been on the printer since last night, and is still going.  Apparently the old one was rounded out over the years, at least to the point where it appeared round when I was doing my measurements.

Hopefully it will be finished before I leave for work as I am curious to see how it comes out.

Notes for designing things in the future... take more photos of the thing I'm designing a component for, measure a lot more things and take better notes.  Also, in a case like this, if the thing is small enough, take it with me for test fitting, if not actual testing, then send the thing along with the new parts.

This would have saved me a lot of effort.

Def

[Vidar]

Notes for designing things in the future... take more photos of the thing I'm designing a component for, measure a lot more things and take better notes.  Also, in a case like this, if the thing is small enough, take it with me for test fitting, if not actual testing, then send the thing along with the new parts.

Same experience and conclusion here. If the item can't be taken along then I try to take pictures with the ruler/ caliper/ micrometer and their actual measurements in the picture. Two pictures with one zoomed out if needed. That helps to remove any issues with remembering what the measurements were of.

For certain parts it is easier to use a physical reference. For instance if some parts has been bolted with a freehand holes anywhere technique it is measurement smurf to try and match the hole pattern. Putting some pointy bits in the holes and pressing down a plate or similar will reproduce the positions just fine though. For organic shapes, keys or similar the best solution I've come up with is imprints or castings. Or the profile curve replicator tools carpenters use if the shape is just 2 dimensional.

Anyone tried reasonably priced 3D scanners for such tasks?

[Grant Lamontagne]

I have used an app for my phone called Polycam and it seems to work well enough for larger things- like a coworker for example.  I have also tried to scan smaller items like a Leatherman Signal and it didn't come out that well. 

As I understand it, most iPhones come with but in LIDAR nowadays and so the app will probably work better on that.  Why the heck an Phone needs LIDAR I'll never know, but it's nice that they justify the insane prices somehow.   

I've also been looking at dedicated scanners and while most are the cost of a small car, there are some that are quite reasonable.

The guys that made my printer (XYZPrinting) used to make a model that was both a 3D scanner and printer in one, and I thought that was pretty freaking sweet.  I don't know how well it worked, and given that they have since gone out of business, it probably wasn't great.  Still a cool concept though- a 3D photocopier would be a very neat concept.

Def

[AzteCypher]

You could try using an Xbox Kinect.

https://youtu.be/JluBO5ZxAQ8?si=BwFVgEkB9f73YGnS

[Cypren]

Anyone tried reasonably priced 3D scanners for such tasks?

I've used a few. 3D scanners with prices below five figures are generally not accurate enough to help with CAD and fabrication. The point clouds they generate are simply too coarse, movement mechanisms don't have enough rigidity to prevent artfacting and their scale is inconsistent and almost always has to be manually tweaked using known reference measurements to produce something even vaguely usable.

They're mostly tools for artists who want to bring physical objects into virtual scenes where measurements are arbitrary and precision is unnecessary. Fabricators are almost always going to be much better-served by sinking the money into quality calipers and a micrometer and taking the necessary measurements by hand.

[Vidar]

They're mostly tools for artists who want to bring physical objects into virtual scenes where measurements are arbitrary and precision is unnecessary. Fabricators are almost always going to be much better-served by sinking the money into quality calipers and a micrometer and taking the necessary measurements by hand.

That has been my impression too, but as it is a few years since I checked last I had hoped there had been some progress.

Some years ago I tried photogrammetry and some 50+ photos from various angles. The result was visually okish, but again, hardly CAD precision. Structured light might have helped I suppose.

Anyway, thanks for the update. 

[Grant Lamontagne]

The value of a 3D scanner in my mind, is the ability to (relatively) quickly recreate a design.

In my mind, I see it as being a way to take a broken component that can be fitted back together, scan it quickly and, if possible, fire directly into the printer for a replacement component.  If the piece is too broken, take the scan into Fusion or other software and fix it before printing.

Sure the replacement component may not be as strong as the original, but I feel like it is a good fix until an actual replacement can be brought in.

The example I use is a shelf bracket or plastic hinge part for a fridge/freezer.  If it breaks, you really can't use the item until a replacement can be obtained.

Sure you can probably get the component on Amazon these days, but it's not likely you can wait two days with no door on the freezer.

So, duct tape the door shut, remove and scan the part, print a new one and repair the hinge.  While it's printing, order a proper replacement.  When it's done printing, print a second one, just in case.

It doesn't have to be perfect, it doesn't have to match, but it gets you closer than having to do all the measuring yourself.

Def