MP400/600BN leather sheaths and modding

[chris]

(part 1)
Longtime lurker, first time poster.

So I’m not exactly a multitool collector; I’m much more into slipjoint knives.  So I only have four multitools, but my MP400CS and MP600BN are definitely my favorites.

I made a sheath for my MP400.  I have almost no experience with leatherworking, just a wallet and a couple axe sheaths, but that means I have a very basic leather tool set and I know how to saddle stitch.  I dislike pocket clips because I often put my hands in my pockets and don’t like the back of my hand rubbing up against something metal.  And my hands are super large and barely fit in my pockets in the first place.  So I decided to make a leather slip with a clip for the MP400.  This way I can put it inside the pocket and my hand is just rubbing up against the leather instead of the tool.  It also won’t tear up my pockets taking my tool in and out of the pocket.  I can also belt carry it.  I like clips over passthrough sheaths because it’s rare that I EDC a multitool (just a slipjoint knife is enough 99% of the time).  So when I need a multitool I just need it temporarily for a task/project and don’t want to have to undo the belt just to get the sheath on there. 
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[chris]

(part 2)

I really love the MP600BN because, while needle nose work 99% of the time, for me 95% of the time they are the wrong type of pliers and work just “barely good enough accompanied with extra frustration.” I had recently thought about getting a CD+, but after thinking about it, I realized that modifying my BN would actually make for my dream tool.  So that’s what I did (I have another heavy duty needle nose anyway).  Never modded something before, but was inspired by all the modding done on this forum.  I have never used a serrated blade, can opener, or lanyard so I removed those to replace with a pair of scissors and the saw blade from an ebay donor MP600PS.  The nail nick for the scissors is on the wrong side, but I cut a nail nick on the other side with a dremel.  I couldn’t go every deep because of the size of the cutting wheel on the dremel, but it gives enough traction to pinch grip it open so it actually works fine.  I bought some aftermarket saw blades and prepped six of them for some variety.  Half of them only needed to be cut to length, but the other half also needed some very slight thinning of the tang to fit, which I did on a bench grinder.  I found the Remgrit blade to be next to useless.  I also replaced the carbide cutters with high speed steel cutters because, for me, this is a heavy duty tool and I just don’t want to ever have to worry about what I’m cutting.  Anyway, for me, this is now pretty much the perfect multitool.  I have the bit kit so I may turn the small flat head screwdriver into a birdcage awl down the road.

I really dislike the Gerber sheaths so I decided to make one since I was pleasantly surprised how well my MP400 sheath came out.  Definitely had to do some head scratching on this one to figure out how to make it, but it holds the tool and the bits.  The front pocket for the bits will also hold a few extra saw blades so I’m prepared for a few different situations.  Overall I’m incredibly happy with it.  It’s a little blotchy because I don’t have a good way to apply a solid wax finish, but it will even out quickly.  I’ve already managed to get it dirty in the short time I’ve had it.
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[IMR4198]

  Now that's a first post.  Enjoyed seeing the mods.  Good work on the leather as well.  You might want to apply for a Mod User Badge.  I agree with the idea of carrying a simple knife and nothing else.  I carry a SAK and reach for a slip joint plier when I need one.  Even though I do have plier based multis.  Welcome to the forum.  It's a friendly place.  Best wishes.  Gary (IMR)
 

[PitCarver]

Good work, Chris.
Very nice.

[JonesE]

Welcome to the forum Chris. Your sheaths look great. I really like the clip you used. I can see that being real handy. Good job on modding your MP600BN.

 

[Juan el Boricua]

Welcome Chris, and kudos on such an excellent craftsmanship! Really like the idea of an inside pocket slip, as it makes it insconpicuous and, like you said, protects the pocket and its content from the tool's edges. 

[Barry Rowland]

Welcome aboard and great job!

[IMR4198]

Did everyone catch the pretty stitches?  Nice.  I used to oil the leather things with neat's foot oil.  Didn't really soak it, just a light application.  I had a big bottle of carnauba but don't recall if I used it much or not?  I usually dyed the leather also.  Keeps it from looking so blotchy.  Generally, some brown shade.  Black dye doesn't always come out so well.  Best wishes.  G
 

[Farmer X]

Nice work on the sheaths and mods!

[AzteCypher]

Wow!  That looks really good.

 

Welcome! 

[madfishcat]

very small step. mark as usual, but make holes every other one. in general, not bad. typical beginner's mistakes are normal, the main thing is not to stop, and then it will go by itself.

ps. The molding is excellent!
ps2. instead of paint try beeswax. warm up the skin and rub it in, it works pretty well, just don't use a lot of wax, otherwise the skin becomes like cardboard and breaks. as an option, you can try wax with rosin, but I haven't tried it, regular wax is more than enough.

Here, for example, is a simple one. Unpainted leather with wax treatment.
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[chris]

Wow.  Thanks for all the very kind words everyone.  This place is full of nice people.  Just for clarification because I don’t think I worded it well:  I used Snow Seal for the 400 as it can remain a soft and pliable sheath, but for the 600 sheath, because it is wet molded I just used straight wax to retain the rigidity.  I’ve used sno seal a billion times on other leather goods (gloves, sheaths, shoes, etc.), but this was my first time using straight wax and it wasn’t as easy as some of the youtube videos made it seem – maybe because I was using a wimpy hairdryer – so it looks a little blotchy.  I have confidence it will patina out.

IMR498 – I briefly thought about dye, but I figured I shouldn't bite off more than I can chew in one project!  If I ever make another sheath, or just turn leather working into some kind of hobby, I’m definitely going to explore leather dye.  Right now I’m function over form, which is a bit bland, so styling things up a bit in the future would be well warranted.

Madfishcat – “mark as usual, but make holes every other one.” This sounds like you were trying to give me some good advice, but I didn’t understand it.  Could you give me a little more detail? 

[madfishcat]

yes, it's simple! the marking step is, let's say, 1.5 millimeters, you mark the leather with a tool, I don't know what it's called in English, we call it a "copier", every 1.5 millimeters as usual, but you make holes every other one, i.e. the step of the holes and the seam is 3 millimeters. it will look more interesting, because the seam will be smoother and neater, and the extra marking, if it doesn't go away at all, if you sew on wet, will be hidden under the threads. But if you want to sew with small stitches, then just take a thinner thread and everything will be fine!

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[madfishcat]

Judging by the shape of the holes, you use a "punch" (?). I usually drill with a Dremel, a 0.5 drill bit, so I have no problems with the step of the seam holes and it is much more convenient, because after drying, I sew wet leather, it tightens and the holes close by themselves, and then they are also clogged with beeswax. But there is a nuance - because the thread rubs against the leather, it twists more than usual, but if the thread is not completely crappy, then it's okay. This is just personal experience, in fact, I hate sewing sheaths, so I am not an expert at all. In any case, everything is at your discretion, and, of course, good luck in new projects!

[chris]

Madfishcat, Thanks for the details; I think I understand now.  You are using a 1.5mm wheel to mark the holes, but the actual holes are 3mm apart.  You are correct, I did use a diamond punch so there wasn’t really any hole marking in my case.  The punch set I have is 4mm spacing.  The thread was 0.6mm RITZA 25 waxed polyester thread.  Thanks for the tips!

[PitCarver]

I read somewhere, when I was doing a leather project, about using mineral oil on leather.  Supposed to make a nice tan shade when allowed to dry in the sun.
Personally, I like leather to be natural and be able to get a nice patina over time.