Beauty! Do you think the backside Philips on your ti customs like that can stand up to more torque than the stock vic? Have you ever tested?
Quote from: Syph007 on June 23, 2017, 01:25:20 AMIve FINALLY come up with a way I like to hold all the scale tools people want. Drawing it up now in CAD then I can post what Im thinking of trying. The pen is still too thick to fit unless I can find an option for a thinner one, but regardless if this works I can fit ...ToothpickTweezers Small firesteelPinSewing needle and thread That takes care of what most people would want, and there will be a small space left over to store whatever else could be jammed in there.Ive been stuck forever trying to work out the mechanism. I know I could machine a little drawer hollow that opened in the scale, but how would it lock into place to avoid accidentally opening, and it would also have to be simple so that machining time/cost wasnt too much more and no extra parts like more screws and tapping would be needed.I did have to go with much thicker Ti for the backscale 0.155" instead of the 0.100" I used now, but that at least this will provide a way to offer people what they want. It would still be slightly thinner than a stock SAK with plastic scales though (0.070" thinner) since it still wont have the outer liners. So still an ok compromise I think for those that would want this.My breakthrough in mentally working on this was realizing how I could machine the drawer to have a built in retension spring to snap it home and become a solid part of the scale when not needed. A small nail nick would be exposed either on top on inside to pop it open. It would be part of the back scale and open upwards like a normal tool, but the hinge point would be towards the inside not where the normal tools pivot. Began prototyping today. Very thick Ti scale pocketed out with pivot and locking bump on other end. Now to make the piece that fits in that space and holds the parts. (Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)
Ive FINALLY come up with a way I like to hold all the scale tools people want. Drawing it up now in CAD then I can post what Im thinking of trying. The pen is still too thick to fit unless I can find an option for a thinner one, but regardless if this works I can fit ...ToothpickTweezers Small firesteelPinSewing needle and thread That takes care of what most people would want, and there will be a small space left over to store whatever else could be jammed in there.Ive been stuck forever trying to work out the mechanism. I know I could machine a little drawer hollow that opened in the scale, but how would it lock into place to avoid accidentally opening, and it would also have to be simple so that machining time/cost wasnt too much more and no extra parts like more screws and tapping would be needed.I did have to go with much thicker Ti for the backscale 0.155" instead of the 0.100" I used now, but that at least this will provide a way to offer people what they want. It would still be slightly thinner than a stock SAK with plastic scales though (0.070" thinner) since it still wont have the outer liners. So still an ok compromise I think for those that would want this.My breakthrough in mentally working on this was realizing how I could machine the drawer to have a built in retension spring to snap it home and become a solid part of the scale when not needed. A small nail nick would be exposed either on top on inside to pop it open. It would be part of the back scale and open upwards like a normal tool, but the hinge point would be towards the inside not where the normal tools pivot.
Oh my, if you pull this off I'm refering to you as Sir Robert from then on...
Brilliant - I was wondering how the spring would work I had all sorts of weird visions in my head with separate scissor like springs, and was wondering how they would attach etc etcNow I get it And as you said earlier .... the simpler the better (Image removed from quote.)- Bring on version 2.0 - Production version
Quote from: Huntsman on July 12, 2017, 05:42:55 AMBrilliant - I was wondering how the spring would work I had all sorts of weird visions in my head with separate scissor like springs, and was wondering how they would attach etc etcNow I get it And as you said earlier .... the simpler the better (Image removed from quote.)- Bring on version 2.0 - Production version Ya a good thickness for a Ti pocket clip is 0.050" thick and thats what I left there,... but a pocket clip has alot more length for leverage. Since this one is scrap now, what I'll do is grind away at the bottom to thin it until it feels just right, then measure that and adjust.I also need to make the entire thing a bit longer. I needed exactly 2 inches of length and didnt account for the spring part taking up part of that.
Quote from: Syph007 on July 12, 2017, 04:02:24 PMQuote from: Huntsman on July 12, 2017, 05:42:55 AMBrilliant - I was wondering how the spring would work I had all sorts of weird visions in my head with separate scissor like springs, and was wondering how they would attach etc etcNow I get it And as you said earlier .... the simpler the better (Image removed from quote.)- Bring on version 2.0 - Production version Ya a good thickness for a Ti pocket clip is 0.050" thick and thats what I left there,... but a pocket clip has alot more length for leverage. Since this one is scrap now, what I'll do is grind away at the bottom to thin it until it feels just right, then measure that and adjust.I also need to make the entire thing a bit longer. I needed exactly 2 inches of length and didnt account for the spring part taking up part of that. You might want to make the whole spring bar thinner, rather than just at one spot - that way, the spring bar bends along its entire length rather than just at one point which could fatigue.
Quote from: hiraethus on July 13, 2017, 12:14:28 PMQuote from: Syph007 on July 12, 2017, 04:02:24 PMQuote from: Huntsman on July 12, 2017, 05:42:55 AMBrilliant - I was wondering how the spring would work I had all sorts of weird visions in my head with separate scissor like springs, and was wondering how they would attach etc etcNow I get it And as you said earlier .... the simpler the better (Image removed from quote.)- Bring on version 2.0 - Production version Ya a good thickness for a Ti pocket clip is 0.050" thick and thats what I left there,... but a pocket clip has alot more length for leverage. Since this one is scrap now, what I'll do is grind away at the bottom to thin it until it feels just right, then measure that and adjust.I also need to make the entire thing a bit longer. I needed exactly 2 inches of length and didnt account for the spring part taking up part of that. You might want to make the whole spring bar thinner, rather than just at one spot - that way, the spring bar bends along its entire length rather than just at one point which could fatigue.Ya good point. Im trying to think of another mechanism that could also work, and be simple to machine, but cant come up with anything else.
Maybe a separate piece that had a knob that fixed itself into a slot in the handle at the 'top'? I'd need to draw a piccie
Quote from: Huntsman on July 14, 2017, 12:14:08 AMMaybe a separate piece that had a knob that fixed itself into a slot in the handle at the 'top'? I'd need to draw a piccie This is what I meant.....Still like the coiled spring and ball bearing better!!
All this is very awesome Syph Excited to see how this all turns out with the finished product After you get all the fine tuning would it be to hard to get a video clip up on how this all operates
I know you're not really doing 93mm mods anymore but curious if you (or any of your sources) has any interest in making custom 93mm blades? I know a few years ago you had some made with CPM-154. I've been hunting for somebody to make me an upgraded 93mm blade.
Quote from: mbp on July 14, 2017, 05:49:51 PMI know you're not really doing 93mm mods anymore but curious if you (or any of your sources) has any interest in making custom 93mm blades? I know a few years ago you had some made with CPM-154. I've been hunting for somebody to make me an upgraded 93mm blade.There are lots of people who will make custom blades. I bet you could find someone on blade forums for that type of work. Or if you want I could give you the contact details of who I used for those blades. I have 2 of those left I never used but there were very thick.Edit: I had a dig though my emails and found his name.Paul Cooper Email: byksm@yahoo.comHe did great work and it was obvious in communicating with him he knew what he was talking about and had no problem making different blade shapes and adding the nail nicks etc. He bought the steel and ground the blades for me. I got them heat treated. There are lots of places to do that as well. They were great blades, and I do want to make my own someday, but I really dont have the time until I finish the other projects. Plus for an oven and grinder Id be in at least $4k and Im not ready to invest that much right now to make blades. I need a proper air compressor first and to get my blasting booth setup.(Image removed from quote.)(Image removed from quote.)If you want the blades to fit in a standard SAK then they would need to be bent to fit around the awl, like stock blades are. Fitting these huge blades was crazy hard and I wouldnt want to do that again. I want drop in replacements for the 91mm blades, thats what Id be after. In one of the new stainless super steels. At least in S35VN or better.
Do you think the swing out drawer could also be implemented in a 93mm model? Because that could make a farmer x pretty much the ultimate sak for me...
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