What do you lubricate your MT's with?

[Goatlord666]

i was talking to a buddy of mine and I was telling him about a forum discussion and I asked, dude what do you use to lubricate your tools and he said "EZ Lube"...that jerk

[Steinar]

i was talking to a buddy of mine and I was telling him about a forum discussion and I asked, dude what do you use to lubricate your tools and he said "EZ Lube"...that jerk

Given what he then obviously uses his tools for, it would be more interesting to know how he cleans them.

[Goatlord666]

Hahaha

Sent from my Cruize W280 using Tapatalk now Free

[ducttapetech]

Hahahahahahahahahaha!

sent from my mobile

[Aloha]

NECRO

Ok so reading over this thread again and some things for me have changed.  I recently got a hold of some froglube and while mostly a gun lube I wanted to give it a go on my 1095 blades and MTs.

I ran across this http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1057567-a-not-so-little-rust-prevention-test-round-2
which I found to be interesting.  Not sure what I'll do yet but it was interesting to see how froglube did.   

[Grant Lamontagne]

Def

[Aloha]

 

[JNieporte]

Half Tuff Glide and half Rem Oil, in the Tuff Glide's needle-tip bottle.

[Miknitro]

Myself, wash with WD 40, it's varsol based for cleaning. Then 3 in 1 machine oil on joints and dry meticulously.

[comis]

NECRO

Ok so reading over this thread again and some things for me have changed.  I recently got a hold of some froglube and while mostly a gun lube I wanted to give it a go on my 1095 blades and MTs.

I ran across this http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1057567-a-not-so-little-rust-prevention-test-round-2
which I found to be interesting.  Not sure what I'll do yet but it was interesting to see how froglube did.   

That was a good thread, and I think the take away for me is that the best 'rust preventive' lube may not be good for human, and Froglube is one of the better ones that is also food safe.  The only slight drawback is the process of applying it requires heat.  I kinda wonder how well it will do without the heat process(as compared to other lube)?

[Aloha]

NECRO

Ok so reading over this thread again and some things for me have changed.  I recently got a hold of some froglube and while mostly a gun lube I wanted to give it a go on my 1095 blades and MTs.

I ran across this http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1057567-a-not-so-little-rust-prevention-test-round-2
which I found to be interesting.  Not sure what I'll do yet but it was interesting to see how froglube did.   

That was a good thread, and I think the take away for me is that the best 'rust preventive' lube may not be good for human, and Froglube is one of the better ones that is also food safe.  The only slight drawback is the process of applying it requires heat.  I kinda wonder how well it will do without the heat process(as compared to other lube)?

I don't have rust issues on any of my tools BUT it's a nice "insurance" plan to have something on that works.  I feel with any of the CLP (clean,lube,preserve) products re-applying is a must.  I believe the heat process is key so maybe not so well  as compared. 

It seems the initial step is a one time event followed by re-application to further "season" the metal.  I've not used the product yet but so far I like what I'm reading and watching. 

I'm not so much concerned as I am interested in the product and neatness of a "natural" CLP (clean, lube, preserve) product.   

[DazMechanical]

In the past I was just using plain old WD40, I have since switched to cleaning with WD and lubricating with 3 in 1 oil

[sak60]

Have used 3in1,wd-40, pressol, ballistol trying Vic oil at present.

[Weasel]

I've always used WD40 and 3in1  that's always worked fine for me

[anditsgone]

I use hypoid oil, it is desinged for use in the hypoid gear in the axles of cars. It is pretty thick oil and not so watery as the handyman oil you buy at the local handy man shop.
I dont use wd 40 because it is way to thin it almost evaporates. i think regular motor oil wil do it too.

The hypoid oil never evaporates and stay in place for years.

[Aloha]

I applied the Froglube to a couple of tools just because.  I have to mention that I dont have any issues with rusting on any of my tools. 

At the end of the day I've always either sprayed WD40 on the ones that got wet, after drying of course then hit them with a bit of 3and1.

I followed the instruction on the Froglube which called for heating the metal surface then applying the product.  I cleaned the tools with the alcohol to remove what lubricants I had on them.  I have cast iron pans that I've seasoned so the heating step made perfect sense to me.

I only heated the tools "warm to touch" then applied the paste.  Once the paste was brushed on it immediately turned liquid and coved the surfaces evenly.

Getting the product into the pivots of the ST300 was guess work IMO.  The product appeared to seep into the spaces between the inboard tools but unlike 3and1 it was hard to tell how much got in. 

The directions said to let dry for 30mins to an hour so I let dry for an hour.  When I came back to the tools the product was more or less a paste again.  It was very easy to wipe off and I should note the product smelled minty. 

The tools weren't "oily" but I did feel like there was product on the tool.  I dont think this will attract dirt like some other products.  After wiping the product off my Anza I did notice the Micarta in the finger grooves was darker.  I tried to be careful not to get the lube on the Micarta however it's supposed to be safe for lots of surfaces. 

I've not had any issues with rusting but as they say "an ounce of prevention".   

 

[Miknitro]

Don't forget about viscosities an capillary actions with lube guys. Long hydro carbon chain fluids will not penetrate where simple fluids will.

Example, Hypoid gear oil will not penetrate surfaces,holes or gaps where water will flow or go through leeching or capillary action.

When looking for leaks water, gas an varsol will leak through holes normal fluids will not pass through without heat or pressure.
 
Wd-40 water displacement formula 40 was designed to penetrate siezed metals where oil will not penetrate, varsol being better then 60% of volume of wd40 allows it to wet rusty areas where light don't shine. It also has like 2 or 3 % machine oil for lubing in them instances only. Its a penetrant an cleaner that cuts\cleans heavier hydro carbon chained fluids like greases an oils.
 Wash with WD 40, lube with anything after, but don't just use WD by itself on loved items. Peace.

3in1 is a good lube, light, flows easy an easy to clean excess off. Also cheap for volume.

[Aloha]

My Anza is made from a file so applying the Froglube to it and other carbon steel knives I have is "insurance".

[anditsgone]

Don't forget about viscosities an capillary actions with lube guys. Long hydro carbon chain fluids will not penetrate where simple fluids will.

Example, Hypoid gear oil will not penetrate surfaces,holes or gaps where water will flow or go through leeching or capillary action.

When looking for leaks water, gas an varsol will leak through holes normal fluids will not pass through without heat or pressure.
 
Wd-40 water displacement formula 40 was designed to penetrate siezed metals where oil will not penetrate, varsol being better then 60% of volume of wd40 allows it to wet rusty areas where light don't shine. It also has like 2 or 3 % machine oil for lubing in them instances only. Its a penetrant an cleaner that cuts\cleans heavier hydro carbon chained fluids like greases an oils.
 Wash with WD 40, lube with anything after, but don't just use WD by itself on loved items. Peace.

3in1 is a good lube, light, flows easy an easy to clean excess off. Also cheap for volume.

Wd40 is made for nuts and bolts that are torqued one time. If you want good lubrication you have to look at motor oil and hypoid oil.
I don't recommend spraying wd40 on the hinges in the doors of your house because they move allot in one year. Some thick oil will probably do better here.

There is a reason you don't spray a liter of wd40 in your cars engine.

I do agree that wd40 gets on the hard to reach area's easier. But after i applied the oil i move the tool in and out about then twenty times and than it is ready to go and it is good for another year of use.

[Miknitro]

Don't forget about viscosities an capillary actions with lube guys. Long hydro carbon chain fluids will not penetrate where simple fluids will.

Example, Hypoid gear oil will not penetrate surfaces,holes or gaps where water will flow or go through leeching or capillary action.

When looking for leaks water, gas an varsol will leak through holes normal fluids will not pass through without heat or pressure.
 
Wd-40 water displacement formula 40 was designed to penetrate siezed metals where oil will not penetrate, varsol being better then 60% of volume of wd40 allows it to wet rusty areas where light don't shine. It also has like 2 or 3 % machine oil for lubing in them instances only. Its a penetrant an cleaner that cuts\cleans heavier hydro carbon chained fluids like greases an oils.
 Wash with WD 40, lube with anything after, but don't just use WD by itself on loved items. Peace.

3in1 is a good lube, light, flows easy an easy to clean excess off. Also cheap for volume.

Wd40 is made for nuts and bolts that are torqued one time. If you want good lubrication you have to look at motor oil and hypoid oil.
I don't recommend spraying wd40 on the hinges in the doors of your house because they move allot in one year. Some thick oil will probably do better here.

There is a reason you don't spray a liter of wd40 in your cars engine.

I do agree that wd40 gets on the hard to reach area's easier. But after i applied the oil i move the tool in and out about then twenty times and than it is ready to go and it is good for another year of use.

First thirty years of my working life was as a mechanic.
From speedway to drag line buckets, I've worked on its engines.

Slop motors for sprint cars to Keith black hemis. I've worked on one or another at some point. Did my NAIT training, even got them to awaken to new theories in alignment techniques. I adjust zero drag, but that is another story.
You want to discuss motor honeys an other slick 50 type oils sure, but is beyond this scope. My post was to inform that heavy hydro carbon chained fluids can trap h20 in places where only capillary action can remove it or exist with it. The 2 or 3% machine oil in WD is what carries water away, it does not lube nor did I imply that other then minor lubrication when removing rusted components, either naturally or through electrolysis. Dissimilar metal welding.
I know my crap about lubrication an applications of it.
Peace.
Wash with WD, lube with anything else after, as I said.

By the way, wet torque is totally different then dry, please read before doing that on anything critical. As you implied a first torque with lube. WD is a penetrant, read the cans label.
Sorry if that sounds rude. I'm kind of torqued today.

[Aloha]

The heating of the metal liquified the paste.  I did move the parts back and forth to assist the liquified paste into the parts.  I'd imagine a more viscous product would penetrate better however the recommendation is to reapply to further season the metal.  I should also note there is a "liquid" that was supplied in the kit tho it's not anywhere near as viscous as 3and1.     

[Aloha]

@Mik
 

Could you please repeat what you said in english    just kidding.

I love the vast knowledge we have here at MTO.  It's incredible that someone like me can learn so much from a MT web site.  Thank you.

@Andi

It's this back and forth that balance information IMO. 
Both you and Mik are what also make MTO a great place.  The difference of opinions and views is so valuable. 


We aren't a sensitive lot, we're just passionate!   

[Miknitro]

The heating of the metal liquified the paste.  I did move the parts back and forth to assist the liquified paste into the parts.  I'd imagine a more viscous product would penetrate better however the recommendation is to reapply to further season the metal.  I should also note there is a "liquid" that was supplied in the kit tho it's not anywhere near as viscous as 3and1.     

Yup, heat is your friend here in this instance.
Heat speeds up molecules, thinning chain of hydro carbons allowing them to pass into tighter areas.
This is leaving multi weights out of picture, they are broken in multiple divisions for differing temperature protection, example 10/50. Again, not relevant here, but for others that have followed, use grease on hinges, lithium preferred.
Lubricants are a science in their own right.

Sorry for wording of my posts guys, my grammar is poor.
Any lube, actually, heavier hydro carbon chained fluids are great for harder steel and alloys. Though, it leaves thick barrier that we know as oily.
So, straight weight oils, motor honeys, and grease for high carbon steel for protection.