cpm -s30v ???

[heavy handed]

ive had the spyderco bob terzuola slippit for 6 months, but i only got a decent sharpening set last month, so for the first 5months this knife saw very light duty use, as i wanted to be able to sharpen it properly.

when i got the sharpmaker i started using the knife more and more and for jobs that would dull the blade(rubber steam hose wrapped in rope, thick cardboard) etc,

and after a hard days use sure enough the blade was very dull, wouldnt even cut through a bit of paper. so i sharpened the knife on the sharp maker and got a super shaving sharp edge, the next few days the knife saw only light duty cutting but i felt like the edge was dulling really fast ,i didnt resharpen the blade as i thought a super steel should be better than this as i was getting worried that i had brought a dud.

so i started to test the knife on anything that was on the site , cardboard, stripping wires, plastic , rope , hose you name it i was trying to cut it.

then i noticed that i was slicing through all of these materials with ease, so i tried too shave the hairs on my arms and the edge was back to shaving sharp.

im a bit confussed really, but as this is my 1st dealing with a super steel, i was wondering if s30v is a work harder steel? and has any one else come across this with s30v or any other steel.
im not complaing mind i love this knife more than eber now

thanks heavy handed.

[kwakster]

Did you remove the the wire edge or burr after your sharpening session ?

[Sean]

^^^
what he said.

Funny thing it is with steel.  Give me a so called super steel, and I, like you can dull it up pretty
fast cutting non-abusively.  Just cutting everyday things they can dull more quickly than we like. 
Take a non super steel and it get progressivly worse.
Most guys hate 'em but I'll tell you what works best for me.  If your wanting a long lasting edge and
are cutting stuff like you described in your post try a serrated edge in  S30v and I think you would
be surprised at how much less you will have to sharpen it especially when your away in the field and
not near your sharpener.

[Styerman]

S30V likes a good stropping . I found that mine sharpened beter on the Sharpmaker after a few cycles . I find my s30V knives like to be backbeveled lightly , once you get the feel for it , you can eke the edge out for a very long time . I know this sounds crazy , but them's my findings .

Chris

[heavy handed]

thanks for the replys, what you have said helps and makes sense , thanks.

Did you remove the the wire edge or burr after your sharpening session ?

i think i did , after sharpening i run both sides of the blade up and down my jeans.

^^^
what he said.

Funny thing it is with steel.  Give me a so called super steel, and I, like you can dull it up pretty
fast cutting non-abusively.  Just cutting everyday things they can dull more quickly than we like. 
Take a non super steel and it get progressivly worse.
Most guys hate 'em but I'll tell you what works best for me.  If your wanting a long lasting edge and
are cutting stuff like you described in your post try a serrated edge in  S30v and I think you would
be surprised at how much less you will have to sharpen it especially when your away in the field and
not near your sharpener.

funny you should say that mate, i just recieved the ukpk resucue on wednesday, so ill give that a good test at work next week, so far im impressed with the SE edge.

S30V likes a good stropping . I found that mine sharpened beter on the Sharpmaker after a few cycles . I find my s30V knives like to be backbeveled lightly , once you get the feel for it , you can eke the edge out for a very long time . I know this sounds crazy , but them's my findings .

Chris

ill give the back bevelling a go thanks for sharing mate

[Styerman]

I don't really have any strong feeling pro or con s30v . I'm just as happy with 154cm , VG10 , ATS34 , D2 and a host of others , I've owed maybe 8-9 s30v blades , none were very memorable , eithe in a good or bad way .

I'm a failure as a steel snob , most of the better steels please me .

Chris

[kwakster]

When you've sharpened the blade edge enough so that there is a very, very thin wire edge: run the edge over a clean piece of softwood, then sharpen some more strokes very lightly.
I even do this several times.
Now you are sure that the wire edge is gone and that the real edge is completely formed.

S30V isn't known for holding a true razors edge for a very long time, instead it excels in keeping a good working edge for extended periods.
The reason for this is that S30V has a lot of vanadium carbides that do the actual cutting, which is why this steel is so wear resistant.

The steel that surrounds the carbides acts like a matrix to hold them in place, that's why:
a)S30V loves a polished edge, because that way there is more steel surrounding the carbides and keeping them in place.
b)S30V doesn't like extremely narrow edge angles, because the carbides need a certain amount of steel to surround and support them.

A toothy edge will cut certain materials better though, but because the carbides get less support from the surrounding steel this type of edge will be weaker in the long run.

[heavy handed]

thank you very helpful hints mate

[ASH]

You, also can finish with some carpolishing cream, and old leather belt, just like the old style razor.

[heavy handed]

You, also can finish with some carpolishing cream, and old leather belt, just like the old style razor.

do you have any tips on how to strop with a leather belt? as ive never stropped before?, 

PS keep up the good work on your custom knives mate, they are brilliant, hope we see pics of youre new project soon.

thanks heavy handed.

[ASH]

My english not good , but this pic maybe help

http://m.blog.hu/bo/borotva/image/pix/strop%282%29.jpg

If not, i make some pic how i do.

[heavy handed]

thank you