Mora Robust?

[gustophersmob]

As usual, I was browsing the interwebs last night finding more things to spend money on when I came across the Mora Robust.

I searched and didn't see it mentioned on MTO yet.

Apparently More took the companion knife and made the blade 1/8" thick.  They also increased the handle dimensions slightly.

It has a 4" 1095 carbon steel blade, with a 3/4 handle length tang.

As is usual with a Mora, it is cheap as chips.  I found one site selling them for $12 USD.

I like the idea of having them in bug out bags, but since that means they would spend 90% of their life in my trunk in Ohio weather, I don't know that the carbon steel is a good idea.  Otherwise, at least two would be on their way to me now.  I hope they decide make a version in stainless.

Actually, a stainless version with a 3" blade would be just about perfect 

Gotta love Mora, they seem like the SAK of the fixed blade world.  Tough, cheap, high quality and ubiquitous.

Here is a youtube video I found of a guy putting this knife through its paces:

[Gareth]

very cool, I'd not come across the Robust before.   As for keeping one in a truck all year round I do suspect that stainless might be better, so perhaps the lighter Companion might be a better idea: http://www.heinnie.com/product.asp?P_ID=6964&strPageHistory=related

[gustophersmob]

very cool, I'd not come across the Robust before.   As for keeping one in a truck all year round I do suspect that stainless might be better, so perhaps the lighter Companion might be a better idea: http://www.heinnie.com/product.asp?P_ID=6964&strPageHistory=related

That's what I was thinking as well.  Even with the thinner blade stock, from everything I've read, they are supposed to be quite good knives, especially when considering the price.

[Gareth]

As the guy in the video says; if you are planning on using your knife as a knife, then there is absolutely no reason any Mora would fail.  However if you stab it in a tree and then bounce up and down on it, don't be surprised if it eventually lets you down.

[Gareth]

A similar knife with the same thickness as the Robust but slightly shorter is the Hultafors Heavy Duty.  Now one of these I have had a chance to play with and I was incredibly impressed.

[Syph007]

Oh cool, I'll have to check this out.  I'm a Mora fan, but I do favor the stainless versions more.  What would a SAK be with no inox?  The purists say the carbon blades are the only decent ones, but ive never found the edge holding on the stainless to be bad at all, and also another myth is that stainless moras cant strike firesteel... they work fine. 

[Gareth]

Oh cool, I'll have to check this out.  I'm a Mora fan, but I do favor the stainless versions more.  What would a SAK be with no inox?  The purists say the carbon blades are the only decent ones, but ive never found the edge holding on the stainless to be bad at all, and also another myth is that stainless moras cant strike firesteel... they work fine. 

  I've heard that odd one before.  My only thought as to where it originated is from a total misunderstanding as to where the sparks are coming from.  Scraping a firesteel with anything that has a sharp corner will create sparks from the firesteel, right?  Pretty obvious so far I think. 
  Now an old survival trick was to use a flint (or similar sharp stone) to scrape the back of your knife or axe to make some sparks.  The very important difference is that the sparks are shavings coming from the knife/axe.  Now this is really only possible with a carbon steel and isn't doable with a stainless blade.  Make sense to anyone else?

[Steinar]

  I've heard that odd one before.  My only thought as to where it originated is from a total misunderstanding as to where the sparks are coming from.  Scraping a firesteel with anything that has a sharp corner will create sparks from the firesteel, right?  Pretty obvious so far I think. 
  Now an old survival trick was to use a flint (or similar sharp stone) to scrape the back of your knife or axe to make some sparks.  The very important difference is that the sparks are shavings coming from the knife/axe.  Now this is really only possible with a carbon steel and isn't doable with a stainless blade.  Make sense to anyone else?

Sounds reasonable. Confounding (a variety of flint and steel) with (ferrocerium and anything hard enough with an edge).

[enki_ck]

Here's a comparison video with the Clipper/Companion. Not that I ever thought the Clipper wasn't enough knife. I nearly cut of my thumb with it today Only got half through though
 

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Great, two more knives to add to the list

At least there cheap

[jerseydevil]

Great, two more knives to add to the list

Yeah, you and me both.  The problem is my list is beginning to look more like a novel now.....

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Great, two more knives to add to the list

Yeah, you and me both.  The problem is my list is beginning to look more like a novel now.....

lol

We need to write a novel to fund our toys

[gustophersmob]

As the guy in the video says; if you are planning on using your knife as a knife, then there is absolutely no reason any Mora would fail.  However if you stab it in a tree and then bounce up and down on it, don't be surprised if it eventually lets you down.

I agree, if you abuse it, any knife will eventually fail. Although I think some light batoning is a grey area. I've read that normal moras will hold up to that, though, which is great, again especially when their price is considered.

[gustophersmob]

A similar knife with the same thickness as the Robust but slightly shorter is the Hultafors Heavy Duty.  Now one of these I have had a chance to play with and I was incredibly impressed.

Ooh, this looks nice too

[gustophersmob]

Great, two more knives to add to the list

Yeah, you and me both.  The problem is my list is beginning to look more like a novel now.....

lol

We need to write a novel to fund our toys

That is the blessing and the curse of knives like the mora and sak. They're so cheap I think, "one more can't hurt." But that one turns into 100 really fast!

[Mike, Lord of the Spammers!]

Doesn't it just

[Syph007]

Oh cool, I'll have to check this out.  I'm a Mora fan, but I do favor the stainless versions more.  What would a SAK be with no inox?  The purists say the carbon blades are the only decent ones, but ive never found the edge holding on the stainless to be bad at all, and also another myth is that stainless moras cant strike firesteel... they work fine. 

  I've heard that odd one before.  My only thought as to where it originated is from a total misunderstanding as to where the sparks are coming from.  Scraping a firesteel with anything that has a sharp corner will create sparks from the firesteel, right?  Pretty obvious so far I think. 
  Now an old survival trick was to use a flint (or similar sharp stone) to scrape the back of your knife or axe to make some sparks.  The very important difference is that the sparks are shavings coming from the knife/axe.  Now this is really only possible with a carbon steel and isn't doable with a stainless blade.  Make sense to anyone else?

I think you're right on the money their.  Probably people not realizing what firesteel is.  I haven't tried but I would imagine even a sharp chunk of glass would work as a striker.  I use the backside of my stainless mora all the time though.  I did have to square up the back to make more a crisp corner, but after that it worked just fine.

[Heinz Doofenshmirtz]

Sounds like Mora is responding to Condor's bushcraft knives now.  They're all 1/8" thick, but are full tang and come with a very nice leather sheath.  The one I've got my eye on is the Tavian.

http://www.condortk.com/productsdetail.php?prodid=3

I also like this one too.

http://www.condortk.com/productsdetail.php?prodid=10

[Gareth]

As the guy in the video says; if you are planning on using your knife as a knife, then there is absolutely no reason any Mora would fail.  However if you stab it in a tree and then bounce up and down on it, don't be surprised if it eventually lets you down.

I agree, if you abuse it, any knife will eventually fail. Although I think some light batoning is a grey area. I've read that normal moras will hold up to that, though, which is great, again especially when their price is considered.

Oh, I agree.  A good knife should be OK with some batoning, just so long as you are not expecting it to cut across the grain of some ironwood without showing some effect, you'll not be disappointed.

[Travis Autry]

Shameless Plug:

Check The Multitool.org Store at EDCSource.com.  I have a Clipper, Mora 2000 and a Morakniv Bushcraft kit listed.  The Bushcraft comes with a fire steel and a sharpener attached to the sheath.  All three are priced below suggested retail and if I'm asked nicely, I might be persuaded to make a deal on any or all of them.

If I still had time to roam the woods some, I'd probably buy the Bushcraft.  It's lightweight, but enough knife to be a good companion.  Add the diamond sharpener and the fire steel and it's a very good kit for hunting, hiking, camping or just woods wandering.

[jzmtl]

You know there's a reason scandi grind and thin blade works well together. Once you have a thick blade the grind gets thick really quick and the knife gets wedged in stuff instead of cutting through it. I've already noticed it on the new stainless clipper, having trouble power through a dried branch with one cut whereas old carbon clipper with thinner blade would do it without problem. And this is ever thicker.

[Syph007]

Good point about the grind and thickness.  One thing I never got on to, was how easy the scandi grind was to sharpen.  People always raved about that feature but I find them a big pain to sharpen.  Maybe im spoiled by my sharpmaker now and sharpening on a flat surface takes more practice.. dunno.  For the thicker blade, Id be tempted to redo the grind and make it a full flat grind.

[jzmtl]

Me neither, I now touch up all mine on the 30° setting on sharpmaker, a lot less work.