My First Alox Mod.

max6166 · **Reply #90 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:34:32 PM

Great work, Mikko! I like your experimental spirit.

I think someone else mentioned it earlier, but did you consider putting the Wenger universal wrench opposite the phillips? I don't know if it would work, but it is definitely short enough.

I used to think the magnifier was silly, but I got an Explorer anyway because I wanted an inline phillips. After a few months, I now find myself using it all the time. I mainly just use it to inspect things very closely, sometimes to read fine print. I am even thinking of buying a jeweller's loupe now, because I miss the magnifier when I am not carrying my Explorer.

Here's another idea: maybe you could put in a custom tool? How about another inline driver? A stubby flathead? I don't know if you have any need for them, but a Robertson driver would be amazingly useful over here in Canada.

J-sews · **Reply #91 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:35:25 PM

Quote from: Benner on August 30, 2008, 07:04:08 PM

The phillips always has a Magnifying glass opposite. I'm like Mikko, and am put off with it's plastic construction.

Ahh, I understand now. So if Mikko wants something besides a magnifying glass opposite the phillips, he will have to make it. $:-\$

Benner · **Reply #92 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:36:03 PM

Quote from: J-sews on August 30, 2008, 07:35:25 PM

Quote from: Benner on August 30, 2008, 07:04:08 PM
The phillips always has a Magnifying glass opposite. I'm like Mikko, and am put off with it's plastic construction.

Ahh, I understand now. So if Mikko wants something besides a magnifying glass opposite the phillips, he will have to make it. $:-\$

That be the problem. $:-\$

max6166 · **Reply #93 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:38:46 PM

He could also use the led light, but it is pretty crappy...

WhichDawg · **Reply #94 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:39:40 PM

it sounds like he may be customizing a part, which would be sweet

J-sews · **Reply #95 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:43:42 PM

Maybe a dumb thought, but would the ideal thing simply be a full-length phillips driver? (no opposites needed)

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #96 on:** August 30, 2008, 08:17:00 PM

well send me one and make it happen

J-sews · **Reply #97 on:** August 30, 2008, 08:26:06 PM

Quote from: Tarrodemierda on August 30, 2008, 08:17:00 PM

well send me one and make it happen

Next one I see is yours buddy!

Mike · **Reply #98 on:** August 30, 2008, 08:33:02 PM

Congratulations Mikko, that's really some outstanding work.

Mike

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #99 on:** August 30, 2008, 09:33:48 PM

thank u so much Mike!

scibeer · **Reply #100 on:** August 30, 2008, 09:59:36 PM

Looking good man!! That's some nice work.

Be a stud and copy the magnifyer frame in brass for the empty spot!!!

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #101 on:** August 30, 2008, 10:10:36 PM

well if id make a new frame,id stick a compass in it instead of mag.

so u like my work,really?

thats cool since u seem to be a guru in this area.

Benner · **Reply #102 on:** August 30, 2008, 10:13:26 PM

Quote from: Tarrodemierda on August 30, 2008, 10:10:36 PM

well if id make a new frame,id stick a compass in it instead of mag.

so u like my work,really?

thats cool since u seem to be a guru in this area.

A brass compass the same shape as the original magnifyer would be awesome!

WhichDawg · **Reply #103 on:** August 30, 2008, 11:45:31 PM

wouldn't all the metal of the tool mess up the compass readings?

Benner · **Reply #104 on:** August 30, 2008, 11:47:30 PM

Quote from: WhichDawg on August 30, 2008, 11:45:31 PM

wouldn't all the metal of the tool mess up the compass readings?

Who cares, it would look great!

kent ct · **Reply #105 on:** August 30, 2008, 11:53:39 PM

the only thing a cant pull out is how to make an Bail,that wont ruin easily the scales.hollow axle/pin would be the solution but i donno where to get one or how to make one really nicely.
[/quote]
You could rivet the bail on with a small thin brass or aluminum washer underneath to avoid hitting the scales. A hollow pin, I think would weaken the pin or or might need too thin a bail. Would also make riveting hard to do without riveting the hole too.

Richard

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #106 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:01:14 AM

yep youre thinkin like iam,about the fact that hollow axle that small in diameter would be weakening factor.....

J-sews · **Reply #107 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:19:42 AM

Maybe I'm the only one who doesn't like hollow-rivet bails? On my Wenger SI the darn thing is constantly darting in front of the knife blade just as I'm about to close it. I've reshaped the blade several times to remove the resulting dent.

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #108 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:22:05 AM

you old grunt

well the bail has to be certain size and shape an on the proper end of my sak to funtion nicely.

and u can send that annoyin SI to dr.de mierda,to get rid of it

Neil · **Reply #109 on:** August 31, 2008, 12:57:01 AM

I like bails

I've added bails to alox knives by drilling into the pin a few mm, it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I think the alox knives are over engineered in the first place, they can handle quite a bit of abuse

Neil

WhichDawg · **Reply #110 on:** August 31, 2008, 01:18:37 AM

J-sews is that the "Johnny Quest" spider in your avatar?

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #111 on:** August 31, 2008, 01:20:02 AM

Quote from: NKB on August 31, 2008, 12:57:01 AM

I like bails

I've added bails to alox knives by drilling into the pin a few mm, it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I think the alox knives are over engineered in the first place, they can handle quite a bit of abuse

Neil

oooo!

so thats one way to do it,i was worried about fully thru drilled axle u see.

Freudian Frog · **Reply #112 on:** August 31, 2008, 02:26:21 AM

I think you should forego the bail and place the ever-useful LANYARD HOLE opposite the phillips. =D

Two birds with one stone!

Neil · **Reply #113 on:** August 31, 2008, 02:31:22 AM

Quote from: Tarrodemierda on August 31, 2008, 01:20:02 AM

Quote from: NKB on August 31, 2008, 12:57:01 AM
I like bails

I've added bails to alox knives by drilling into the pin a few mm, it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I think the alox knives are over engineered in the first place, they can handle quite a bit of abuse

Neil

oooo!

so thats one way to do it,i was worried about fully thru drilled axle u see.

Long as you get it centred properly it all seems good. If you're a bit out it can go horribly wrong... don't ask me how I know

Neil

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #114 on:** August 31, 2008, 02:35:10 AM

i have this watchmakers lathe,i think with that i could do the holes....

Neil · **Reply #115 on:** August 31, 2008, 02:52:51 AM

I just start off with a small hand drill and then use a pillar drill. Its not fancy but it works... most of the time

Neil

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #116 on:** August 31, 2008, 02:57:22 AM

pillar drill is very useful in about any crafts,ive used it also as a light duty mill.

Tarrodemierda · **Reply #117 on:** August 31, 2008, 03:14:13 AM

this is bit off topic but as i was looking at felinevets site,i had an idea that includes wenger and some custom cast scales from aluminium....its gotta be done,since wenger has way cool tools in their line,like dedicated can opener,snap shackle,slipjoint pliers,serrated mainblade etc....

i cant wait now to get my hands dirty to finish the last part to my alox,ive made some sketches and as i get my buttocks to school ill get it done properly.then its just gettin rd of pe blade,adding the new to that empty place inline with phillips,making the bail and just riveting and voilá.

kent ct · **Reply #118 on:** September 01, 2008, 02:33:08 AM

Quote from: Tarrodemierda on August 31, 2008, 02:35:10 AM

i have this watchmakers lathe,i think with that i could do the holes....

To make starting center for drill using watchmaker lathe:

Method 1- Use hand graver with diamond shape point and T rest. Be careful to not leave nib at bottom of hole.

Method 2- Take a piece of drill rod about 2mm and turn a point. File 3 flats and harden point. Use in tailstock as center drill.

Method 3- Take a piece of thin brass, place it on some wood and center punch it. Drill a small hole in the center punch mark. Hold the brass over the pin you want to drill and start a hole with the drill you just used. If you hold it square it will be centered, Then use the final size drill.

I would use a round end punch to start the riveting followed by a flat punch.

Richard

Rodion · **Reply #119 on:** September 01, 2008, 02:45:39 PM

Put a needle threader in there!

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