3D design progress

Grant Lamontagne · **on:** February 28, 2016, 03:09:45 PM

I've been looking into 3D design for a while, and quite frankly it has been less than successful as I haven't really had the time to put into it. Well, since I'm on my arse with this broken leg I have been spending more time at it.

So far I have been largely sticking to Google Sketchup 2016 and I've followed the tutorials pretty closely, although they are more oriented towards house building rather than product design, so I have taken what I learned there and ventured off on my own.

I decided to start by trying to model things that were more or less simple shapes and designs, then fiddle with them to try and get what I want out of them while learning how to use the software and manipulate the products.

Here are a couple of my early attempts- one is a corner bracket for a shelf that is supposed to be a fancier and stronger version of these:

It's 50mm high (roughly 2 inches) and I added cutouts on the side to reduce the amount of plastic that would theoretically go into printing them, if I had a 3D printer, which is something I plan to get sooner or later.

Next up is another experiment that I was working on, more to see if I could do it than anything else- I decided to try making a Phillips screwdriver, since it seemed like that would be a fairly complex shape. I'm rather pleased with the way it turned out.

I'm trying to design things from the ground up using items I am familiar with and then try to improve on them.

Anyways, I am still very much a novice, but compared to some of the stuff I had come up with before I think I am making progress. If anyone who knows about this stuff has any suggestions or pointers I would be only too happy to listen.

Def

hiraethus · **Reply #1 on:** February 28, 2016, 04:22:41 PM

Nice looking models.

I've always found sketchup a real PITA to work with so I admire your patience.

One of the best ways I've found to familiarise myself with new CAD software is to take a part and some digital calipers and try to replicate exactly what I'm holding in my hand. That way you'll get a feel for both the software and how the part is made.

NKlamerus · **Reply #2 on:** February 28, 2016, 05:19:17 PM

Can you import files? There's a Leatherman Fuse Plastic Model on Etsy that I've always wanted to print somewhere but never have.

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #3 on:** February 28, 2016, 07:06:46 PM

Quote from: hiraethus on February 28, 2016, 04:22:41 PM

Nice looking models. I've always found sketchup a real PITA to work with so I admire your patience.

One of the best ways I've found to familiarise myself with new CAD software is to take a part and some digital calipers and try to replicate exactly what I'm holding in my hand. That way you'll get a feel for both the software and how the part is made.

I've been doing that too. That's why I got the Digital Calipers last week.

Quote from: NKlamerus on February 28, 2016, 05:19:17 PM

Can you import files? There's a Leatherman Fuse Plastic Model on Etsy that I've always wanted to print somewhere but never have.

As soon as I get a printer I will make it available to any MTO members that want to print things.

Def

WWW · **Reply #4 on:** February 28, 2016, 08:35:15 PM

Quote from: hiraethus on February 28, 2016, 04:22:41 PM

Nice looking models. I've always found sketchup a real PITA to work with so I admire your patience.

One of the best ways I've found to familiarise myself with new CAD software is to take a part and some digital calipers and try to replicate exactly what I'm holding in my hand. That way you'll get a feel for both the software and how the part is made.

Amen to that, on both counts. Replicating things is good and Sketchup is rather difficult to work with (in my experience at least). Can't wait to see all the crazy stuff you come up with boss!!!

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2016, 01:19:01 AM

So what do you guys suggest other than Sketchup? I'm using it largely because the price (free) is right but if there are better options out there I'd certainly consider them, if not now then for sure later on.

Def

hiraethus · **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2016, 07:40:59 AM

Fusion 360: http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/try-buy

Proper 3D CAD software, free as long as you 'renew' after a year. You'll need to be online to use it as all the processing is done on AutoCAD's servers, but that means you don't need a high end PC (or a PC at all for that matter - it'll run on a mac too) to run it.

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #7 on:** February 29, 2016, 02:40:10 PM

Good, because my poor old laptop is seriously running out of steam. I've heard other people mention Fusion 360 as well, so I guess maybe I should listen and give it a shot....

This morning's attempt at a design is a tripod mount for a GoPro camera.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #8 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:46:28 PM

It has taken almost a day and a half, but I think I have a good handle on a 3D logo some of you may recognize.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #9 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:53:57 PM

I hadn't realized just how complex Travis had made the logo- I need to adjust my model a fair bit to make it accurate, but I have a good start I think. I had never realized that Travis had all lined up all the rivets on all of the letters, or how complex the plier head really was. Here is the logo before I removed the guidelines.

I have spent almost two days poring over a printed, simplified version of the logo with calipers and I still managed to screw a few things up, but now that all of the letters are there I can fiddle with things a bit more until they are right.

For those keeping track of the technical data, if this logo was printed at it's current scale, the plier head would be 515mm tall, the length would be about 2215mm and it would be 5mm deep to the surface of the letters and 6mm deep at the top of the rivets.

So, in short, bigger than any commercially available printer could handle, but I needed it that big to do the detail in the plier head.

Def

Syph007 · **Reply #10 on:** March 02, 2016, 02:57:31 PM

Quote from: hiraethus on February 29, 2016, 07:40:59 AM

Fusion 360: http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/try-buy

Proper 3D CAD software, free as long as you 'renew' after a year. You'll need to be online to use it as all the processing is done on AutoCAD's servers, but that means you don't need a high end PC (or a PC at all for that matter - it'll run on a mac too) to run it.

Ya its pretty sweet and quickly becoming the de facto small business CAD solution. The beauty is it's also CAM software. A CAD/CAM package for free is nuts, and for $300 for a business use is unheard of.

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #11 on:** March 03, 2016, 10:53:02 PM

Still using Sketchup- haven't switched to Fusion yet, and this is today's result.

I seem to be having an issue working on curved surfaces so I really had to struggle to add a stem until I said to hell with it and added a flat inside and out and built the stem on that.

I added a recessed plane on the inside top for the crystal to sit in and a raised lip on the outside for the top outside for a bezel. Not pictured is the underside where I put on a raised lip for the case back with a recessed spot for an O ring for waterproofing. Again, I can't figure out how to work on curved surfaces, so I was unable to thread the lip for the case back.

Still, not bad for my first try. I think my next watch will be a square watch with a recessed, screw in back like my Pebble or other digital type watches.

Squares I can deal with easily enough....

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #12 on:** March 04, 2016, 01:33:37 PM

Yup, I definitely prefer straight lines and squares....

This is a rough approximation of my Pebble watch case.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #13 on:** March 08, 2016, 04:41:04 PM

I decided to go back and fiddle a little more with the GoPro mount I did and see if I could reduce the amount of material and weight while maintaining strength. I used the triangle type cutouts that I used on the bracket above on one side and did a circular vent type cutout on the other. It looks pretty cool on the drawings, but I'm not sure how well it would translate in an actual product when you consider the unit would really be all of an inch and a half or so high.

Still, this is mostly theoretical and experimental at this point, so I can do whatever I want without having to think about reality!

Def

ducttapetech · **Reply #14 on:** March 08, 2016, 04:45:35 PM

Wait...what!? Broken leg! Damn that sucks Def. Hope you heal up soon.

That's us mobile

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #15 on:** March 08, 2016, 07:52:10 PM

I'm on the mend pretty good now. I can walk (awkwardly) for short distances completely unaided now, and I'm improving every day. You can see all the sordid details in this thread:

http://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,64110.0.html

The short version is that it's been almost two months now, had two screws installed in my ankle and I've been passing the time largely with Netflix, 3D design and a number of random frustrations.

Def

Whoey · **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2016, 08:00:26 PM

While triangles are strong structures, the direction does matter. Also the circle one might look neat, it's probably not as strong as a triangle setup would be IMHO.

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2016, 08:46:40 PM

Probably not, but as the circular portions are roughly .5mm thick I doubt I would ever even try to print it this way. As I said, I was mostly just fiddling around.

Besides, it doesn't really require that much strength to hold a GoPro anyway, even the bigger, older Hero2's that I have.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #18 on:** March 11, 2016, 01:45:55 PM

Today's project was pretty simple, even by my standards.

I use 1" square aluminum tubing as a cross bar for carrying my kayaks on my trailer. You can see them in the above photo- they are the silver bars. These are also my old ones where I had cut off the ends. I have replaced these with new ones where the ends weren't angled because this served to weaken them too much. The ends of the new set have been left raw, which is not a big deal, but I always thought that end caps would be nice. This is the kind of thing I was looking for:

Not an exciting design I know, but it was a little interesting since I added a taper to the part that gets inserted. Of course the aluminum crossbars aren't on the trailer now, and since my mobility is still somewhat limited I don't have exact measurements available so this will need some tweaking when the time comes.

On a side note, to me, these are the reasons why 3D printers are going to become common in the near future, as well as 3D scanners. We have all experienced some broken clip or fitting for some doodad or another and had no way to obtain another one. Usually the only option is to call the company and sit on hold for an hour, only to try to describe the part to someone in a call center that has never seen the device you are talking about. Then, after paying for it, you wait three weeks for it to arrive, only to find out that it's the wrong piece. I think about this a lot, specifically with regards to my parents' situation, since they live in a small town, 100 miles from the closest city. If a small part breaks, it's a long trip to make to try to find a replacement, even if it is readily available. Being able to piece the part together, scan it (or copy it manually) and have it printed out would make a world of difference for them. That is a large part of why I'm so interested in this stuff.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #19 on:** March 18, 2016, 12:06:02 AM

I am sick of all the one piece tools on the market that are the result of people just ramming as much crap into a steel bar and trying to get rich off it, so I decided to see how difficult it is.

Here is the result of maybe an hour's worth of work, from someone who barely understands the software. Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the DefTool!

Def

Whoey · **Reply #20 on:** March 18, 2016, 12:59:32 AM

Does it really need more functions than a bottle opener? :p

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #21 on:** March 18, 2016, 01:37:19 AM

Not really.

Def

Whoey · **Reply #22 on:** March 18, 2016, 01:38:48 AM

Does it come in mint chocolate chip?

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #23 on:** March 18, 2016, 01:53:17 AM

I don't see this thing having any production in any flavor.

Def

PTRSAK · **Reply #24 on:** March 21, 2016, 09:14:41 AM

Be careful or you might end up with a full orderbook for DefTools.

Seriously, slap a MTO logo on it and I bet there would be a queue of people here to buy one.

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #25 on:** March 21, 2016, 11:00:12 AM

I'm sure there would be, but I think I'd rather wait until I can come up with something worth putting my name on.... you know, like I did with Uncle Def's Premium and Ultra Premium Tool Oil!

Last night I watched this video again (I'd seen it many times before) and I got a bit ambitious.

I thought that this is a project that I would really love to try sometime, although I'd rather not go with as big a boat as he did- 16' 8" is a pretty large boat. I thought I'd rather do something around the 14' mark and I started working on designing my own. I doubt this will even be what becomes the final design, I'm really just experimenting at this point. The plans for the boat above are available on the guy's website, so if I ever come to the point where I can do it I'll probably modify his design to suit my needs, but in the meantime I thought it might be fun to try my hand at designing a boat.

Def

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #26 on:** March 21, 2016, 10:53:07 PM

I've continued working on my kayak design and I have added bulkheads, cockpit coaming and brackets for the hatch covers.

Also a slot for the rudder to fit in.

Def

Whoey · **Reply #27 on:** March 22, 2016, 12:38:20 AM

might high tech looking tooth pick

Grant Lamontagne · **Reply #28 on:** March 22, 2016, 08:45:28 PM

Taking a break from the kayak project today, I decided to try one of those three way corner brackets that you use for assembling frames for things like tents. I ended up doing two different ones, both set up for 20mm diameter rods for no reason other than that's what I thought of.

The one on the left was done by making a half cube (three sides) then putting circles at the various corners and extruding them into the shared corner then deleting the cube. This worked sort of, but the junction of three round pieces seems both a bit weak to me and also seemed to upset the software greatly, so I tried to build a cube in the middle to reinforce them and fix the issues the software was having in the joint. As I was failing miserably at trying to build the cube in the middle (couldn't get the placement exactly right) it occurred to me that I was going about it backwards.

So, instead of doing the piping and then attaching the cube, I started again and created the cube first, then extruded the pipes from the cube, then cut off the corners of the cube that I didn't need in order to save print time and plastic, should it ever get printed.

The second attempt, the one on the right seems far superior to the one on the left. Live and learn, right?

Def

hiraethus · **Reply #29 on:** March 22, 2016, 09:01:06 PM

Quote from: Grant Lamontagne on March 22, 2016, 08:45:28 PM

Live and learn, right?

Absolutely. There's no right or wrong way* to make a 3D model of something, but often you'll find that whatever software you're using can't do it the way you first thought - there's one method that just seems easier than all the others.

You need to get into curves and lofts fit the kayak project.

* but some methods are definitely better than others

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