Charge AL WAY too stiff

[DoughDTD]

Hey guys,

I got myself a Charge AL about 2 months ago, and I've been working on it constantly since then to try and get the initial "stiffness" to go away, but unfortunately my work as mostly been in vain.  When I first pulled it out of the box (Tin, to be more specific), everything seemed way too tight for me.  My previous leatherman was a Surge, so I thought maybe I was just used to the "surge rattle" and was over reacting, but I quickly realized the stiffness of both the pliers opening and closing during operation, as well as ALL the internal tools, was impeding use.  I've done all I can to try and loosen them up:

Used oil and opened closed all implements about a bajillion times
Used some toothpaste and opened and closed all implements about a bajillion times
Opened and closed all the implements another bajillion times on their own.

Nothing seems to be working.  I have a permanent damage spot on my right pointer finger nail from breaking it so many times trying to pull out the dang scissors!!!  I called leatherman and they said I could send it in, but I'm cheap and dont want to pay shipping each way, so what else do you guys think I could do?   I was pondering trying to take it apart and put it back together, but not tightening the knurled assembly scews so much, cause thats what I think the problem is.

Thanks fellas,
Dough

[eodtech]

Buy an SOG MT, problem solved.

[DoughDTD]

lol I'm plenty set with my Swisstool Spirits.  I gotta admit, I really like leathermans, I applaud SOG and their work, I don't really like Gerbers, and I absolutely love Victorinox.

But still, my charge was expensive and I want it working right!

-Dough

[parnass]

Did you try heating up the screws which hold the individual tools (to melt the thread locker), then loosening the screws slightly?   I've had to do that with a Supertool, Pulse, and others.

[Teofilo]

- not tightening the knurled assembly scews so much, cause thats what I think the problem is.

Thanks fellas,
Dough

Dough, try it, I think it will do!

[DaveK]

Dough - be careful adjusting the tightness of the screws, if you do, take Parnass's advice and avoid breaking the loctite. Be careful of damaging the screws too, as that would probably invalidate the warranty. Did you get it new?

The way you describe the problem, it isn't right, and I haven't ever had to "break in" a new Charge, they should be perfect straight out of the box! As it's such an expensive tool, I'd seriously consider using the warranty and getting what I'd paid for, it clearly is defective.

Just my two-penneth of course.

[MultiMat]

Is exchanging it at point of purchase a option 

[Grant Lamontagne]

Toothpaste won't have helped- it's not designed to lubricate.  In fact, it'll work against you as it's an abrasive in a gel- like medium, which will only make things worse.  Powdered graphite may help, but if it's too tight then it looks like loosening the screws might be your best bet.

Def

[DoughDTD]

The toothpaste wasnt to lube it up, it was to act just as an abrasive and wear away a little bit of material to allow the parts to move more freely (after I washed away all the toothpaste!)  I think you're right tho, im gonna have to try and loosen it or just open the wallet and ship back to leatherman.

-Dough

[Poncho65]

The toothpaste wasnt to lube it up, it was to act just as an abrasive and wear away a little bit of material to allow the parts to move more freely (after I washed away all the toothpaste!)  I think you're right tho, im gonna have to try and loosen it or just open the wallet and ship back to leatherman.

-Dough

Most likely you'll only have to pay shipping to LM if that helps any

They should send it back free

[Leatherman123]

They send it back via UPS their expense.. 

[P-11 shooter]

The toothpaste wasnt to lube it up, it was to act just as an abrasive and wear away a little bit of material to allow the parts to move more freely (after I washed away all the toothpaste!)  I think you're right tho, im gonna have to try and loosen it or just open the wallet and ship back to leatherman.

-Dough

I know it works for guns.  There is the famous "toothpaste action job" you can do on a revolver. You rempve the sideplate and pack the SOB full of toothpaste. Then dry fire it for a while and the toothpaste smoots everything out.

I know what you mean about the stifness. I have a (old) wave and the large driver, can opener, and philips were impossible to move when I first got it. They are a little better now, but still suck WAY worse than they should.

[Schaferhund]

Hi all,
I have three Charges, an Xti, a Tti and an AL.
When I got my AL it too was very stiff, the inner tools would come out clumped, and not without considerable effort/nail trauma, and the serrated blade wasn't easily one hand opened.
Looking on the top joints of the AL the copper washers/bushes look alot thicker and more prominent than on the titanium models.I figured this stuff is soft and open/closed it endlessly, but it never really helped.
I messed around with it some, and ended up loosing off the pivot bolts with two little facom molegrips.
If there was any loctite used it broke off easily.

Having done this, the AL is actually my favourite to EDC, I prefer the feel of the Alu handles, I never miss the cutting hook apart from it's novelty, and I much prefer not having the crimper in the pliers.
Also the black and stainless matches my Inova xo3 that it sits beside (I know, silly reason, but another reason nonetheless!).
I was too late at my local suppliers (live on a tiny Island closer to France than UK) to get an orginal Ti, but after getting the AL I am actually glad!

[DaveK]

Welcome Schaferhund. Jersey or Guernsey  then?

Good points about the Charges. I actually prefer the Ti handles myself, mostly because they're more hardwearing than the annodised aluminium. Do you find that the handles on your AL mark up very easily?

[Schaferhund]

Welcome Schaferhund. Jersey or Guernsey  then?

Good points about the Charges. I actually prefer the Ti handles myself, mostly because they're more hardwearing than the annodised aluminium. Do you find that the handles on your AL mark up very easily?

Hi Dave,
thanks for the welcome, and I'm in Jersey.
The handles in my AL haven't marked at all in around 4 months of everyday carry in my pocket using the clip,in with the coins and keys etc, and my diamond file rubs the inside slightly every open/close cycle.....and yet no anodise has come off at all,even there.
Once I thought I had scratched the handle with the jaws of a set of needlenose pliers as I was pulling a knot in some paracord tight, but the scratch seemed to disappear over the next day....it's odd  stuff the finish, kind of textured like the diamond file, if you rub your nail down it it will leave a white line, but will clean right up against your jeans.

[DaveK]

That's interesting. I had assumed that it would be similar to the Squirt and Juice tools, which do mark up quite easily. Looking now though, it does appear to be pretty heavy duty.

Thanks for the info!

[Schaferhund]

It is a different type of anodisation, type III hard anodise...... I have a few Inova torches that use type III hard anodise finish, and one XO in particular has seen much,much EDC, it's been to Iraq and back, and is completely unmarked, I have even scraped it with a bradawl, and although there is a scratch, it isn't down to bare Ali despite the force I used.

I have a squirt P4 here with the coloured anodised handles, it a much different finish for sure!

(sorry edited this as you posted above!)

[DaveK]

The only "quality" torch I have is a Blackhawk something or other, I think that has Type III annodising. I dropped it recently and was pleasantly surprised at the lack of damage. I expected it to be chipped and mashed up, but it was fine.

[Schaferhund]

Yeah, type III is probably stronger than the stuff it's covering so it seems.
Titanium is definatley gonna outlive it though, you could probably hit those scales with a hammer and just see sparks!
If the XTi didn't have the crimper I would probably just carry that,as I have a micra on my keys for scissors anyway, and I like having four different drivers( as the bits are reversible) as I don't carry the sheath, just use the clip at the back of my pocket.

[DaveK]

I agree with that, although I do like having the scissors on my main tool. I carry a TTi, but in truth, when I eventually pick up a Ti, I think that might become my EDC.

The Ti is at the very top of my wish list at the moment, but I am really, really tight It's the only Leatherman tool that I don't own!

[Schaferhund]

I wonder if Leatherman may eventually release a TTi without the crimper, that would be sweet.
Thruth be told, you can makeshift crimp a connector between the knife and saw with the pliers open, it's rough, but then the "cap crimper" doesn't do a great job on crimp terminals anyway, it's meant for blasting caps, plus single non ratcheting crimpers aren't legal for use on automotive wiring in the EEC anyways....I've heard of insurance companies refusing to pay out on fire claims because the inspectors foud single crimped connectons.

If I come across any Ti deals here I will let you know.....you just missed out as we have one shop here in Jersey that sells army surplus and various military kit, is a leatherman dealer and every December has a half day crazy sale with up to 50% off to regular customers.
He had a stock of Xti's and Ti's left and I got the Xti for £52!!

[DaveK]

I wonder if Leatherman may eventually release a TTi without the crimper, that would be sweet.
Thruth be told, you can makeshift crimp a connector between the knife and saw with the pliers open, it's rough, but then the "cap crimper" doesn't do a great job on crimp terminals anyway, it's meant for blasting caps, plus single non ratcheting crimpers aren't legal for use on automotive wiring in the EEC anyways....I've heard of insurance companies refusing to pay out on fire claims because the inspectors foud single crimped connectons.

If I come across any Ti deals here I will let you know.....you just missed out as we have one shop here in Jersey that sells army surplus and various military kit, is a leatherman dealer and every December has a half day crazy sale with up to 50% off to regular customers.
He had a stock of Xti's and Ti's left and I got the Xti for £52!!

That's a great price from a shop, although that's what I tend to pay anyway, by importing them from the US  Having said that, the exchange rate is a bit rubbish at the moment, so that is a good deal you got there!

[Leatherman123]

I like the SLV handles better than the AL/Ti handles.. They are rougher than the AL but not as course as the Ti. handles.

[Schaferhund]

SLV?
Forgive my ignorance!

[DaveK]

SLV = Silver.

It's basically a Charge AL that was made exclusively for Costco. Was sold in a nice display case and a knife.

In fact - here's a pic I took a few weeks ago:

[Leatherman123]

I am actually very surprised with how hard wearing the AL handles are.. I have used my ALX very hard and it doesn't have any scratches..

[Schaferhund]

SLV = Silver.

It's basically a Charge AL that was made exclusively for Costco. Was sold in a nice display case and a knife.

Ah, looks nice, never seen a leatherman knife before either.

I am actually very surprised with how hard wearing the AL handles are.. I have used my ALX very hard and it doesn't have any scratches..

Yep same here with my AL, I think Leatherman realised these would have to be good or else people would just overlook them.

[Craig]

SLV = Silver.

Thanks for that. I have one of these and I've been wondering what it means

[Leatherman123]

For the record, Ti stands for titanium and AL stands for aluminum. 

[Craig]

For the record, Ti stands for titanium and AL stands for aluminum. 

Unless you're on this side of the Atlantic in which case AL stands for aluminium