Frequency of sharpening

[AimlessWanderer]

It's always been a source of bewilderment for me, seeing the old penknives where the blades have been worn to a stub. I've been carrying my Deluxe Tinker almost exclusively for several months now, and I think today was the first time it visited a stone. Yes, I'll have lightly steeled the edge occasionally out of habit, or stropped it on my trouser leg, but the edge still showed the machine ground striations on the edge.

This isn't exclusive to Victorinox, as most of my most carried pocket knives are still the same form as they were when new, including my carbon steel lambsfoot I got in my late teens, which must have clocked up a decade of pocket time at least, and my herringbone scaled Case barlow, which must have at least two years cumulative pocket time too. That said, Victorinox does do good steel, and I might need to sharpen other pocket knives a little more frequently.

While my life isn't as active as it used to be, my knives do still get regular use, be it opening parcels and food packaging, removing tags from new clothes, or decapitating vape juice bottles to get the last 5% out which gets held back by the crap nozzle design. The other two knives I mentioned, got carried when I was a lot more active, in both work and play, and still look mostly whole.

The Deluxe Tinker hadn't completely dulled either. It still cut paper, but only with certain parts of the blade, and took less than a minute on a small pocket stone to bring it back good. It wasn't one of those complete reprofiling jobs that I think one of my fixed blades needs (which has cut a heck of a lot of heavy cardboard over the last few months), just a few swipes per side, test, and repeat.

Maybe it's my usage, or maybe it's how I sharpen, but I can't see me ever reducing a knife blade down to a sorry looking stump.

How often do you guys need to get the hones out?

[Yanossauro]

Since I learned how to sharpen (and improved my technique), my knives don't ever see a stone, but on occasion, when one of them is having trouble shaving, I use a ceramic rod or the bottom of a ceramic mug. 5 swipes each side, then 4, then 3, 2, 1 and it's ready for another long time.
When "on the field", my leather belt is always on me, so when I sense a little dulling coming into play (which is almost always an edge rolling), I do the 5 swap trick on the belt and go back to cutting.
My friend Firmo always goes straight to the stone, so his Spartan's main blade is down to about half its original width. Gives me the creeps just to look at it!

[Myron]

Same here, Aimless.  I've always wondered about these poor SAKs that you see with blades that are about 5-6 mm short, even though their profile when opened appears normal.  I cannot imagine the kind of use that would result in a knife needing sharpening so often that a significant amount of the blade's original area would need to be removed.  Although I suppose it must be out there. 

I touch mine up on a Lansky when it starts tearing the things I mean for it to cut.  If I get a 2nd hand knife for the collection, I will touch up the blade when it first arrives if it needs it, then put it on the shelf and likely never sharpen it again. But even still, I never even come close to removing visibly-apparent amounts of metal in this process.  It's a head scratcher for me, too.

[Aloha]

I like to strop my blades when I feel the edge just isn't where I like it performance wise.  I'll take my blades to my Spyderco Sharpmaker when the edges have been used harder and are in need of more.  I rarely take my blades to my whet stones.  If I damage the edge of when I get a new knife that has damage I take then to the whet stone.  I'll reprofile a knife on my whet stone when I want a different degree of bevel. 

I have seen some blades that IMO were just over done or done poorly.  Maybe the methods were too aggressive?  I have diamond plates but those are used even more rarely. 

[Nick4]

I have seen some blades that IMO were just over done or done poorly.  Maybe the methods were too aggressive?

I suppose that most blades in ​​poor condition have fallen victim to electric grinding tools. It can be difficult to control the cutting speed using such type of grinders.

[cbl51]

I think we see the blades that are worn thin from over sharpening more than anything else. Some people get obsessed over the whole sharp thing and just don't know when to just STOP.

BUT...a knife by nature of the beast is a semi disposable tool. If you use it much, it will require sharpening. And every time it gets sharpened a tiny bit of steel is removed from the blade never to return. 

I know some of those old pocket knives you see with the blades sharpened down to toothpicks were used hard for many years. Most times some guy had just the one pocket knife and he used the ever lovin dog snot out of it. In the 'old days' a pocket knife was actually considered a disposable tool. They sold the cheap little Imperial, Hammer Brand, and a few other marques in the local five and dime stores for not much more than a nail clipper. They used these little knives, usually one or two blade jackknife patterns with thin stamped out carbon steel blades, for all kinds of abuseing things. Scrapers, pry tools, and you see a lot of very old pocket knives with one or more broken blades. If it got dull, there was not telling what it may get sharpened on. A course stone, or the edge of a sidewalk. To those people the pocketknife was just like the dollar screw driver yo buy at Harbor Freight or Walmart.

I'be got SAK's that are many years old, but still have most the blade. I worked in a machine shop as a machinist and it was a dirty rough place. The round stock for the lathes came in bundles from the mill wrapped in that nylon fiber reenforced tape that was impregnated with steel dust, dirt, and gummy grime. After a few cuts in that stuff the blade of whatever you used was dull. It was like cutting through dirty sandpaper. Used a replaceable blade utility knife instead of my personal pocket knife, but the older guys I worked with just used what they had in tier pocket. Those cheap shell handled Imperial one and two blade pocket knives. When dull, they walked over to the grinding machine and sparks flew and they "sharpened" their knife by taking off a good bit of metal. They didn't care. They weren't into knives as obsessed over cult worship items, just a tool to get a job done. They destroyed a knife in 6 months or less. But for 2.98 the'd just go buy another one.

I'd guess that improper or over sharpening by someone who has very little idea of what they are doing, is responsible for more thinned out blades that are worn out before their time than any other real reason. In the year and a half I've had my executive, its seen a real sharpening stone twine, and just five strokes per side then. Mostimes if it is not opening my mail clean, it gets a few strokes on a coffee mug bottom like Yanossauro describes. I saw my dad d that with his old Case peanut that he carried form just before the start of WW2, to the the mid 1970's. By the time he passed away the blade was maybe just about a third gone. This from literally everyday carry and use, for about 35 years. It was his only pocket knife and was not in any kind of rotation. I think I could count on the fingers of one hand the times I saw hime takeout to a stone. Usually just a few swipes in the bottom of a coffee mug now and then.

If a SAK is not slicing clean, just give it the 5,4,3,2, 1, method on a coffee mug bottom and try slicing notebook paper or jute twine. If it cuts good, then STOP! You don't need a razor edge on your SAK, thats what Bic makes razors for. In all probability you are not going to be doing an appendectomy or other surgery with it, so you don't need a scalpel. The steel that Victorinox uses does well with a courser working edge, so don't over do it. If it opens mail with a clean slice, that good enough. Your SAK will last longer and thank you for it.

[Aloha]

I found this video good.  I have my methods based off what I like performance wise from my blades. 

[Ron Who]

My BuSchroder rides the stone on a weekly basis, but after a year or so I don´t see any size difference from a new blade.

The only blades I´ve seen sharpened until nothing was left, eventually, were butcher´s knives. Typically these are sharpened on a rod, and several times a day.

[smiller43147]

Most of the over sharpened blades like this show irregular edges with a course honed edges and plenty of scratches on the blade that indicate IMO that a very course stone was used by someone with poor sharpening skills.  If you don't keep a consistent angle every time you run the blade over a stone you're just removing metal without actually sharpening it.


Glad to see I'm not the only one who "stropped it on my trouser leg".

[AimlessWanderer]

If you don't keep a consistent angle every time you run the blade over a stone you're just removing metal without actually sharpening it.

I think too much pressure is something else that people are guilty of. They happily grind a decade's worth of steel off, and think it needs more off because it's not sharp. It's not sharp because the edge isn't pointing where it should be, due to putting half your bodyweight behind it. It's like trying to plane something smooth, by whacking it with an axe.  Yeah, if you have some heavy profiling to do, get stuck in, but nice light passes when finishing.

[comis]

I found this video good.  I have my methods based off what I like performance wise from my blades. 

I am not a sharpening guru, but I always have doubts about people teaching free hand sharpening with handheld stone, especially when they are not doing it on the field.  It's already difficult to achieve very accurate and consistent result with free hand stone sharpening (especially if you are starting out), and hand holding your stone is just gonna make things so many times more difficult.

For home free hand sharpening, I'd much rather lay the stone on a flat table, one less variable out of the equation:

[chip]

I like to keep my knives razor sharp so get touched up regularly on my lansky turnbox. Knives of average steel like my tenacious you can almost wait until it is noticeabley  dull between sharpening as it’s quick and easy to bring back to shaving sharp. But newer harder steels like on my fallkniven u1 it pays to sharpen little and often the moment it’s no longer hair poppin.

[comis]

Back to OP, instead of 'real' sharpening, I usually keep my EDC edge shaving sharp with loaded strop and plain leather strop.  I almost never wait till the blade completely dull to sharpen.

[theonew]

I bought this Victorinox paring knife for kitchen duty in January of 2012 for $7.00 delivered. It has been used every day since then. My wife loves it and always brings it when we travel because "everyone else's knives are usually dull". It has what I consider to be soft steel and frankly doesn't really hold an edge very well but it does sharpen quickly. During the entire time we've had and used this knife, it has rarely been less than shaving sharp and has usually been more like "holy smurf that is sharp". The reason being that I keep it touched up with a DMT extra fine diamond hone I keep by the sink. So when I wash it, which happens on an almost daily basis, if I check the edge and it isn't "holy smurf sharp" I usually give it 5-10 passes per side on the diamond hone. Conservatively speaking that would be at least once a week. So 8 years x 52 weeks = 416 sharpenings. I always sharpen the whole knife and thus the profile is pretty much exactly as I received it. Looking closely at the heel of the blade, which does get sharpened, but slightly less than the rest of the blade, I would say it has lost only about .5 mm of width. My takeaway from this is that when you see a blade that has been noticeably deformed it is most likely caused by improper/over sharpening, most likely done with a machine.

[nate j]

Every time I open a package, I just strop the blade on the cardboard box a bit.  YMMV, but this seems to work for me.

[Mad Scientist]

I'm definitely the "strop it on my thigh" type.

I'm of the opinion that it's better to maintain the edge rather than wait until it gets dull and re-sharpen. And then if a true sharpening is necessary, a light touch on some fine stones should be sufficient.

[cody6268]

1.4034 is pretty soft. I've noticed my 111mms and the "real work" they endure, almost always, after a couple months, have small chips in the edge; that easily sharpen out.

I'm still learning to sharpen.

[cbl51]

I will say that my daughter, has carried the same little classic for almost 20 years on her keyring. Once in a while she notices it not cutting well, so she 'strops' it on the bottom of. coffee mug like you would use a razor strop, in a backwards kind of motion. Very opposite of what I taught her to sharpen, but Jess says it works for her. I learned the coffee mug thing from dad, and Jessica learned it from me, just backwards. The bade looks pretty normal.

Her little SAK seems to be always sharp. 

[Aloha]

@Theonew, nice pic.  I have a chefs knife I used in the hotels I worked in that doesn't look much different that when I bought it new.  Poor technique or aggressiveness is my thought as to why blades look like tooth picks for some.  I'd also agree with cbl51 that some just see their knife as a expendable item so care is not used when needing to get it sharp. 

[Yanossauro]

I agree with you all the way, buddy!

I am not a sharpening guru, but I always have doubts about people teaching free hand sharpening with handheld stone, especially when they are not doing it on the field.  It's already difficult to achieve very accurate and consistent result with free hand stone sharpening (especially if you are starting out), and hand holding your stone is just gonna make things so many times more difficult.

For home free hand sharpening, I'd much rather lay the stone on a flat table, one less variable out of the equation:

[theonew]

While I completely understand the logic of not holding the stone in your hand and thus reducing a variable, I taught myself that way and it just feels natural now. When you get good at it, you can feel how much of the bevel is touching the stone and that feedback lets you make minor adjustments quickly.

[Aloha]

@ comis fair enough. 

Those stones he used were well used.  I use a variety of techniques I guess.  For re establishing a bevel thats been worn over time I have no problem holding the stone.  If I am making a new bevel because I didn't like the degree or the cutting performance wasn't to my liking then I'll use the stone like the video.  I am no pro but I can for the most part get my edges to where I like them.   

I use my strops in hand all the time. 

[cbl51]

@Theonew, nice pic.  I have a chefs knife I used in the hotels I worked in that doesn't look much different that when I bought it new.  Poor technique or aggressiveness is my thought as to why blades look like tooth picks for some.  I'd also agree with cbl51 that some just see their knife as a expendable item so care is not used when needing to get it sharp.

I can do a whole post on how the men I knew growing up used small cheap pocket knives to destruction. They tossed them in the trash when they were used up and got another one at the five and dime store. Even today, I know a man in my neighborhood, an old retired oil field roughneck. His favorite knives that he carries is the Buck mini Buck, and the Victorinox classic. He can get either one at Walmart or Academy Sports for the 10 dollar range.

Howard is old school Texas guy.

[AimlessWanderer]

I sharpen "in-hand" too. I find it gives me more feel of what's happening, and i'm less likely to apply too much pressure.

[Storm]

Since reading many of cbl51s wise words and others in the last year of so, I'm hitting the strop like Mike  Tyson hit people and the stones have been getting  lonely.  Big fan of the trousers / tool belt strop when the occasion presents itself.
 I suppose I'm going down the "ounce of prevention is better than a pound  of cure" route . As always , YMMV

[Ron Who]

I am not a sharpening guru, but I always have doubts about people teaching free hand sharpening with handheld stone, especially when they are not doing it on the field.  It's already difficult to achieve very accurate and consistent result with free hand stone sharpening (especially if you are starting out), and hand holding your stone is just gonna make things so many times more difficult.

For home free hand sharpening, I'd much rather lay the stone on a flat table, one less variable out of the equation:

Agreed on the table bit. When out in the field, sit straight and put the stone on your knee.

I always use a stone freehand. And I don´t get complaints about my occasional sharpening services, rather the opposite.

I´m not another TheApostleP though.

[theonew]

I could easily afford to buy a new $7 paring knife every week but what would be the benefit when sharpening takes less time than placing the online order

[Aloha]

I have one of those Vic pairing knives and its great however my Cold Steel paring knife is my new favorite even as compared to my Henckel pairing knife.  They're all sharp but for some reason I am using my Cold Steel more.   

[theonew]

The Vic paring knife really is a great knife and I fully intend to replace it when it wears out in 30 years 

[cbl51]

I could easily afford to buy a new $7 paring knife every week but what would be the benefit when sharpening takes less time than placing the online order

I have a couple of those same paring knives in my kitchen, but with the serrated blades. I don't even bother sharpening them but for every six months or so. If the serrations feel a bit dull, I have a rat tail diamond hone that fits in the serrations and it takes a few minutes to touch up the blade. Then I don't worry about them for another six months or more.

I LOVE Victorinox serrations, they cut like the dickens. Just a wee touch up on the 4th of July and Christmas, and they cut all year.