When you're as clumsy as me, would you be able to keep the angle steady? Do you just need to keep the blade perpendicular to the base? Is there an advantage to using this over a set of stones? (I'm guessing the answer is yes, and that it's actually easier to maintain a consistent angle) Can it get as sharp as 8000-10,000 grit stones? Am I asking too many questions?
Great info here. I'm currently planning on getting a sharpening system that would do well for Opinel knives, and of course Victorinox as well. Using a carbide pull through I was able to get a nice sharp edge, presumably because there's a full flat grind without a secondary bevel on the Opinel, but you know how rabbit holes can be. Since I was able to get a notable difference, I'm wondering if there are other options besides a) table top systems with clamps or b) a proper set of stones. Is Vic the way to go for a pull through sharpener, or are there other good options?
You've got the idea: blade stays perpendicular to the base and the edge is stroked down the triangular "rods". I think it is easier to keep a consistent angle with the Sharpmaker than with stones. (Unless, like me, you treat the rods like stones....)The Sharpmaker comes with two sets of rods medium (grey) and fine (white). To start, use the corners of the grey rods (more aggressive), then the flats. The switch to white rods, corners first, then flats. I can get a really nice edge using the white rods. Especially if I strop afterwards. Is it a 10K grit edge? I don't think so. I use a 12K stone to finish my straight razor for shaving. I am guessing that Murray Carter could use the white rods to get a shaving edge, but I don't think I could. I have a small pink ceramic stone that I picked up at a woodworking shop. That beauty is extra-fine and puts a super edge on a sharpened knife. I sometimes go from grey to white to pink. I haven't settled on any one system. I have water stones, diamond plates, Arkansas stones, Sharpmaker, Edgepro, and some ceramic rods. They all work. Even a good coffee cup will work, but definitely strop the edge...on Carl's belt.
Great info everyone, thank you.Maybe more in-depth than I'm ready for at this point though. Seems I read somewhere that the pull-through on the Vic sharpener is angled specifically at 20 degrees, the standard angle for SAKs. (Which coincidentally is the angle from the thickness of the nub on the toothpick, according to NikGyver. So it can be used to get the correct angle when free-handing.)For now I'll stick with the Vic sharpener and stay on top of blade maintenance. Should I pick up a used SAK in way bad shape, then I might try some of that in-depth info!
Do... do you at least put the rods flat in the sharpmaker like they intend or do you Nix that approach too? When are you going to go whole hog and get a Wicked Edge 3.0? We know you still have the storage space I got my first real strop (well piece of leather dedicated to the purpose) recently with my whittling starter kit, but for the life of me not sure how to cleanly spread the green compund it came with, it's really hard at room temp, do I need to heat it up? Hopefully it'll do better than a belt does
Uhhhh....I don't see how the base would support a flat rod. My Sharpmaker is really old. It is possible that newer versions have that option. I just jam a rod between my outstretched thumb and middle finger of my left hand. The knife to be sharpened goes in my right. Somehow it all works out. The Wicked Edge looks very good, but not nearly as much fun as freehanding. And those mechanical sharpeners always take a bit of time to set up. It is so much easier to pull out a stone and touch up an edge. It is hard to argue against devices like the Wicked Edge, but I encourage people to become comfortable with freehand sharpening. It is easy to carry a small stone while you are out on a trip. Vic's are not known for great edge holding, but if you have a small stone it is easy to touch up an edge. Which is why I got the Vic sharpener in the first place. I really like the Sharpmaker, but I can't recall when I last used the base...... With stropping compound, I have tried heating the compound first. I find it goes on too thickly. Now I don't worry about getting an even coating of compound on the strop. I just rub the cold, hard compound over the surface in a couple directions. I rub it on without a lot of pressure, but I think the friction of rubbing it on still heats it enough to get it to stick to the strop. As I strop the blade, the compound gets worked over the surface (to an extent). I think it is better to have too little compound on the strop rather than too much. I am a devoted stropping practitioner, but I'm sure there are some tips and tricks I could learn.My thoughts on stropping as of this date:• Top grain leather is better than the split side (balsa wood, thin cardboard, and thick paper can serve, too).• A rigid strop (as compared to an old barber's belt strop) is best.• Use a light amount of compound. If it builds up, remove it with steel wool or a scraper.• Strop enough, but not too much. Over-stropping is a thing. • Use a low angle to strop. A high angle can dull the edge, especially if you end up chasing an edge while over-stropping. If the low angle isn't doing the job, raise it slowly.....• Green compound is great, the others (black and pink) are not needed (with possible exception of shaving razor)• Slow and steady strokes seem to work best for me. Some gys like speedy stropping, but I haven't seen an advantage with that.
How old is... really old? I got mine something like 2013 I think? You just turn the base over, the bottom accomdates the rods so you can use them as freehand stones:
I think I got my Sharpmaker when the band R.E.M. was topping the charts and quiche was still popular. My base is just a chunk of plastic with holes in it. The underside is flat...sort of. Sal Glesser probably made it himself...in his garage... I think it came with some brass rods that served as a guard....not sure where those went. Still works, though.
Mrs Nix has...*** gasp ***...an electric pencil sharpener. Me, I prefer a hand-tuned pencil point. (My father always cut his pencils. I liked the way his handwriting looked, so I started doing it too. Although...I'm fond of a mechanical pencil as well. )
What do you guys think of the lighting and backdrop?
I've also got a Sharpmaker which I haven't been bothered to use, yet...
Day 30: This month absolutely flew by! ...
an eBay snagged Casio fx115d which needs to have horribly gooey old feet removing from it
Try it! You'll like it! (Stay relaxed and don't use a ton of pressure. The knife can do the work if you help it along.)
DAY 30!!! This pic says it allOverall, I came to appreciate 58mm more than before.
This is what I was the most curious about; if people would have an increased appreciation of the teeny SAK's?I know that pre-1995, I had the idea that the littlest SAK's were a joke. A kind of toy for the three piece suit crown that needed to address a chipped nail before a meeting of the board. But my better half showed me how wrong I was. Since then, I had used, and relied on a classic when there was nothing else available, like on vacation in Key West where I had mailed a classic to myself where we were staying. No, they won't carve a steamship round of beef, or do bushcraft things like make a log cabin. But for the mundane everyday little job of life, they do very well. And they actually didn't self destruct under my wife's very marked abuse!
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