Rebar with Scissors and Bit Changer (Rebar M?)

Zephon · **on:** November 17, 2021, 03:15:03 AM

I believe that the primary reason my Rebar was getting very little pocket time was the lack of scissors. Luckily, I found a seller with a pair of parse wrenches and spare parts (for/from a Wave).

In reading thru the posts here and asking around other Rebar owners, it sounded like all I had to do was remove a washer(spacer) and the lanyard ring and replace with scissors.

It turns out it was more exciting than that. The first picture shows my initial configuration with scissors.
There’s just one catch, literally. The thumb stud of the scissors touch against the awl. Either the thumb stud goes under the awl or the awl under the thumb stud. They basically get in each other’s way.

This was more of a puzzle than I expected as 1) awl and philips would have to be in the center to allow the plier head to close properly. 2) Can opener nail nick was facing the left side only.

So I disassemble everything and do a second configuration shown on the second picture. All other tools on the PE side, scissors on philips side as the philips is shorter than the folded scissors so the thumb stud won’t get in the way.

I like it and would have stopped here. I was just bothered that the washer(spacer) was too thick that I couldn’t feel the pivot of the locking mechanism of the scissor side. I ended up replacing that spacer with a washer from a Wingman. (Those who want a lanyard loop can also use the thiner one on a Sidekick instead of the washer on the Wingman). See third picture.

Then I saw an ST300M with a bit changer. I go “why not?” I need hex and torx bits for everything from LM/MT’s to bed frames to kids’ study tables. LM has this bit system that honestly sets it apart from Vics (unless you’re using a Cybertool). And there’s that ratcheting bit driver which is all kinds of wonderful to use in the right situations! Out goes the philips, despite rave reviews of it, and on with a bit changer! See picture 4.

Everything has been holding up so far. So tempting to call this a “Rebar M” ala ST300M…..I’ll probably do so once I find something like a pry-bar for it.

As an epilogue, I added a couple of magnets just to hold on the long bits. I have to admit that it’s hard to beat the Skeletool’s second-bit storage but this is better than nothing.

Juan el Boricua · **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2021, 03:49:09 AM

Looks good Zephon, now to put it through its paces at the December Rebar Challenge!!

zoidberg · **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2021, 08:31:17 AM

Ahh what, no pocket clip?

Nice work mate, badge awarded.

Zephon · **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2021, 10:23:05 AM

Quote from: zoidberg on November 17, 2021, 08:31:17 AM

Ahh what, no pocket clip? Nice work mate, badge awarded.

Thanks!

Haha that pocket clip puzzle still eludes me. I can slap on a Nite Ize clip with adhesive then that’s it, but there’s got to be a cleaner way.

ReamerPunch · **Reply #4 on:** November 18, 2021, 03:48:58 PM

Nice work!

I ground a bit off the scissors thumb-pad, to make it clear the reamer, and also put a Wingman package opener in.

https://forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,69674.msg1937401.html#msg1937401

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This is the order of the tools, if you want scissors and the package opener in.
Leave the can opener and Phillips side as it was. The Phillips allows the pliers to sink deep in the handle, and the can opener is completely to the side of the pliers.

On the other handle, from the file's side, you want:
File
Scissors
Package opener
Awl
Small flat-head
PE blade

The thumb plate of the scissors and the tip of the awl get in each other's way. The package opener is short, and the thumb plate goes past it.

Removing a tiny bit of the thumb plate allows the scissors and awl to deploy without issues.
If you put the flat-head in the place of the awl, the tip of the flat-head comes more to the middle of the thumb plate, requiring more material to be removed. It is better to have the awl there, and remove just a tiny bit.

So happy it all came together.

All you give up are the lanyard ring, and the large flat-head.

There is a washer between the can opener and Phillips by default. It could have been a figure 8, and serve as the lanyard hole, instead of having the lanyard take up a whole tool spot. That washer is thick enough to be the lanyard hole.

SteveC · **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2021, 01:36:17 PM

Nice job Zephon !

Poncho65 · **Reply #6 on:** November 21, 2021, 03:42:13 AM

Great bit of modding, Zephon

I love the Rebar as a modding platform, there is just so much one can do with it

and congrats on the badge

Zephon · **Reply #7 on:** November 22, 2021, 10:23:00 AM

Thanks Poncho, Thanks Steve!

Zephon · **Reply #8 on:** December 16, 2021, 09:42:53 AM

Quote from: zoidberg on November 17, 2021, 08:31:17 AM

Ahh what, no pocket clip? Nice work mate, badge awarded.

Finally got one!

I stuck the Nite Ize clip on the saw side (where the PE, scissors and bit driver are located). It covers the Leatherman branding on that handle. The unfortunate thing here is I don’t think I can squeeze a parse wrench under it without serious movement on the clip. Beyond that, it works. My finger can rest on the upward curve of the clip in tool mode or pliers mode….except when using the scissors, but that’s ok since one isn’t supposed to bear down on scissors.

To keep things clean, I also sanded out the branding on the clip. I started with grit 150 then polished off with 2,000 grit to even it all out. Perfectly got the bling out so it will blend in better.

It will fit a LM nylon sheath since the clip on the outside won’t get in the way of the nipple button. It won’t work on the leather sheath as the snap button is larger and the clip gets in the way of closing.