Bond? Sticky Bond... ?

[Grant Lamontagne]

In a recent episode of EDC-TV I mentioned that I really liked my Leatherman Bond, except for the fact that was very difficult to get the implements out, and to even open and close the pliers.



Since then I have gotten a few messages from people that have had the same (or similar) issues, and I have been wondering if this is a more common issue than just mine.  I figured the best way to do that is to start a thread, and so here we are.

Do you have any factory new Leathermans, Bonds or otherwise, that are almost unusable due to excessively tight joints?  Have you fixed yours already, and if so, how did you do it?  I know a few ways, like soaking it in oil or loosening the pivots etc, but I haven't bothered as I have other tools I can use, and I'd like to hear what has worked for others.

Def

[Antti Lammi]

I had similar issues on my Rebar, tools were hard to open and pliers were really stiff to open. I fixed tools opening with set of parsetools by loosening screws, fixing plier stiffnes i banged pivot with bolt and those loosen so good that pliers open now really easily.

[Barry Rowland]

I did with both my Bond and Rebar.  I oiled the joints and kept opening and closing them.  In time the loosened up.  Not well used PST loose, but much better than before.

[LoopCutter]

I have noticed two distinct issues with BOND units that have come into my ownership.

Y the most recent is a Warranty replacement of a Gen 2 for a Gen 1 I had to return.

The Gen 2’s blade handle was very tight at the tool pivot point. Like the back spring was tighter.

So to get that back spring to relax, I wedge a flat screw driver blade into the space between implements and the spring to create a hair with gap and then leave it set for a couple of days.
Afterwards the Phillips and can opener opened was easier, still clumping between those two tools, but the pivot was easier as the back spring was not causing excessive tension.

The blade was easier to open the first 25% of motion, the back spring still caused friction and I had firm lockup when blade was fully open.
The handle date is 0924.

On the same tool, the file handle, 0125, the implements had only a slight tension from the back spring, but did the same trick to relax it.  Tools did have gritty feel between themselves when opening, not when clumped, but when separating.  To resolve, I did soak over night in a blue dawn bath, with very hot water to start.

Rinsed, dried, and oiled. The grittiness was gone.  The file handle is tight but very usable.

The backspring tension does seem to very between different handles I process.

The plier head pivots, when received, were always dry, requiring some drops of oil. I did notice on occasion issues deploying pliers, but I am very certain it is more and issue the with handle tips actually making contact due to the degree of the pliers state.

I am suspecting these are assembled by the same group that assembles the REBARs.

On the other hand my SUPERTOOL 300s are the smoothest tools to open and close.

On the BOND, I do think the back springs cause the great tension attributing issues opening closing of implements.

[IMR4198]

    Everything except the file was really tight on my Bond.  I have worked with mine quite a bit and it is coming around some.  It is a mystery to me that something considered as an economy tool like those built on a Wingman-type chassis can be so smooth.  I like the Bond toolset, light weight, and overall construction.  Maybe I will have mine loose enough to carry by Spring. 
Best wishes.  Gary
 

[Barry Rowland]

I agree Gary.  I actually like the Bond over the Rebar, and I'm a big Rebar fan.

[Crunchie64]

I agree Gary.  I actually like the Bond over the Rebar, and I'm a big Rebar fan.

I definitely prefer the Rebar to the Bond.

I think locking tools are safer, although the Bond’s non-locking mechanism is better than most.

Despite that, I do carry the Bond more often, simply down to UK knife laws.

They’re my stiffest tools by far.

[Barry Rowland]

Crunchie, I wonder if that's by design, to keep the tools (especially the blade) from accidentally closing on someone?

[Crunchie64]

Crunchie, I wonder if that's by design, to keep the tools (especially the blade) from accidentally closing on someone?

I think there are two parts to it.

The knife blade and other tools snap open, and there’s resistance to stop them closing too easily. That’s a good thing.

The pliers are hard to open and close and feel like they’re tighter than they need to be. That’s a bad thing.

Overall, I like both the Rebar and the Bond.

They’re practical, excellent value for money, and don’t draw too much attention, which can be important here.

[LoopCutter]

I backed into this LM system.

When job searching I landed a construction type job, my tool set required modification.

The SuperTool 300 was my first, opened and deployed tools smooth as butter!

Then told if luv the ST3, you definitely will want a REBAR. OH, they were right. But, this little critter was/is tight, broke a few nails accessing implements. But slowly they quit being so stubborn.

Then the BOND was introduced, REBAR like, PST modernized.

I liked it, in retirement now, it was smaller or lighter than the REBAR, did 60% 70% of the REBAR functions. 😎

And, like the REBAR I did find than the BOND required TLC to work smoother.

But, then PST like?   My curiosity caused me to search, and I found 1, 2, 3, and more PSTs.

I really liked this original. 

So I will admit, I am not normal, maybe half a dozen PSTs.  All function as smooth as silk sheets.

Same count, maybe plus 1 or 2 BONDs. Have one in each of my hip and crossbody bags and a couple waist bags.
The pliers are and extension of my fingers that have lost function to age.

The BONDs are as tight out of the box as the REBARs,(I have 4).

But besides the PSTs the ST300 (2), are smooth as butter even after years of abuse and use.

I just suck it up and fidget with my BONDs. I know this has got to be a purposeful assembly issue at LM.  AUTOMATIC TOOLS OR ASSEMBLERS CRANKING THESE DOWN TIGHTER, total different practice than the ST300 line, or SIGNAL, or SKELETOOL, or even the WAVE AND CHARGE.

IT IS LIKE THESE ARE A GOOD VALUE, but you are going to proof your LOVE.

That is my take on the BOND and REBARs.  Like a great mate, you must proof your affection every day to respect and love the purpose. The good stuff is never easy, except a sexy ST300😉. The BEAST of MTs, just not everybody can appreciate it for what it is.

[SteveC]

I got rid of my Bond because of this issue as well as the unsafe knife blade.

[Crunchie64]

I got rid of my Bond because of this issue as well as the unsafe knife blade.

You could give it another try - the reshaped blade will make it virtually impossible to cut yourself even if it does move out a little.

[LoopCutter]

I got rid of my Bond because of this issue as well as the unsafe knife blade.

I thought it strange, LM revised the BOND with another blade style.  But when the same issue occurred with the CHARGE series they issued a recall, requested retailers to return stock. 

I yet think LM wanted to reduce the CHARGES in circulation before they released the NEW WAVE ALPHA.

I recall STEVE saying he never BONDED with his BOND.

I still think a BO BOND would have done well in the market.

[Rich_SD]

Do you have any factory new Leathermans, Bonds or otherwise, that are almost unusable due to excessively tight joints?  Have you fixed yours already, and if so, how did you do it?

I have purchased more new Leathermans than most, and while most are pretty stiff right out of the box, none were almost unusable due to excessively tight joints.  My "fix" is just dealing with the stiffness until it loosens up naturally due to frequent use.  I think they're initially stiff by design - if they were not, I suspect the tools would get too loose after the tool gets broken in from use.

[Grant Lamontagne]

I have purchased more new Leathermans than most, and while most are pretty stiff right out of the box, none were almost unusable due to excessively tight joints.  My "fix" is just dealing with the stiffness until it loosens up naturally due to frequent use.  I think they're initially stiff by design - if they were not, I suspect the tools would get too loose after the tool gets broken in from use.

I would also say that I have a few more Leathermans than the average bear, many of which were obtained new, and I have to say, this Bond is by far the one with the biggest problems.  I have had it about a year and so far there hasn't been even the slightest change in how tight it is. 

It bothers me that so many people have paid a premium for a tool from the top name in the industry and they have to put effort into making it useable.  That shouldn't be, and I would absolutely consider sending this one in for warranty (and I would encourage everyone to hold any manufacturer responsible) but honestly, I have other tools to use and I have my name engraved on this one.

Just imagine if you bought a brand new car and it's doors wouldn't open- you'd probably hold the dealer and manufacturer responsible- why do we accept this from a major manufacturer?   

Def

[IMR4198]

   I watched the video again where Grant has to muscle the pliers and the knife blade on his Bond.  Also, his comment, "... and frankly, I hate this thing." 
   I can imagine asking to see a new CASE from a display in a hardware store.  IMR picks up the knife and checks for cracks, etc.  Tries to open the blade.  Asks the store employee, "What the smurf?"  With a sheepish grin, the employee says, "They's all tight.  You gotta work with it to break it in."
   The way Grant had to put so much power into opening and closing his Bond, is exactly how mine is.  I put some duct tape on the edge of my blade and opened and closed it a bunch.  The blade (I love the shape of this thing) now will open and close tolerably well.  I can get the other tools out without breaking a fingernail now, but they are still stiff and gritty.  Pliers are still tight as can be.  When you close the jaws on them, you have to pull them apart.  The wire cutters are a very tight friction fit against each other. 
    Like Grant, I won't be sending this thing back to Leatherman.  I have other tools to carry, and I can use this one as it is now.  I have a long winter to work with mine.  Good exercise.  Best wishes.  G
 

[Rich_SD]

I would also say that I have a few more Leathermans than the average bear, many of which were obtained new, and I have to say, this Bond is by far the one with the biggest problems.  I have had it about a year and so far there hasn't been even the slightest change in how tight it is. 

It bothers me that so many people have paid a premium for a tool from the top name in the industry and they have to put effort into making it useable.  That shouldn't be, and I would absolutely consider sending this one in for warranty (and I would encourage everyone to hold any manufacturer responsible) but honestly, I have other tools to use and I have my name engraved on this one.

Just imagine if you bought a brand new car and it's doors wouldn't open- you'd probably hold the dealer and manufacturer responsible- why do we accept this from a major manufacturer?   

Def

The Bond is Leatherman's budget tool, so I definitely wouldn't consider it as paying a premium.  That said, I agree that it still shouldn't be too tight to use.  My newest Bond is pretty damn tight, but it's not too tight to use.  I think the only tool that gets that moniker is my Victorinox Swisstool MXBS that will rip off your fingernails.     If I liked the Bond enough to use daily, I would "put my money where my mouth is" and see how long it took to break in (if at all).  Like you, I have WAY better tools to use, so running an experiment like that would take me away from my favorite tools for too long.  Still, it's tempting - if my experience meant anything to anybody, I might still do it.  Unfortunately (or fortunately) my voice means nothing among the mass of online opinions, so a long experiment would only have meaning to me.   

   

[Grant Lamontagne]

In Canada the Bond is $100.

It wasn't long ago that the Charge was $100, so while it may not be one of Leatherman's Premium tools, it isn't exactly a cheapo either.

Def

[Rich_SD]

In Canada the Bond is $100.

   Ouch!  Your import fees are criminal 


Edit: whoops - extra word in there 

[LoopCutter]

  Ouch!  Your import fees are criminal 


Edit: whoops - extra word in there 

Import fees?   That appears to be currency exchange rate.
$1 Canadian = .71cents American
Or $100 C = $71 US

Then add tariffs, but if I am understanding some of this trade we US citizens are paying more for Canadian goods as there is a. Import tariff on items coming into the U.S. to discourage buying goods or some items from our “friends” to our north.

[Rich_SD]

Import fees?   That appears to be currency exchange rate.
$1 Canadian = .71cents American
Or $100 C = $71 US

Then add tariffs, but if I am understanding some of this trade we US citizens are paying more for Canadian goods as there is a. Import tariff on items coming into the U.S. to discourage buying goods or some items from our “friends” to our north.

Good point on the exchange rate   

[Grant Lamontagne]

With regards to your comment that it's not a "premium" tool....

In that it is one of the cheaper Leatherman models, you are correct.  It is not a premium Leatherman Tool.  However, Leatherman is arguably a premium brand, at least nowadays, and all of their tools are considered premium IMHO as a result.

It's like the entry level Lincoln or Cadillac, it's still a Lincoln or Cadillac.  I doubt very much you would expect to pay those kinds of prices from those kinds of brands and then have to make an appointment to go back to the dealership to arrange for them to make it so the doors open properly.

Def

[Rich_SD]

I don't think that it's fair to make a comparison between a $50 multitool and a $50,000 car.  If they were analogous, I could say that Lincoln and Cadillac should offer 40-year warranties (with no deductible) in their car's standard purchase price. 

This is really a difference in expectations.  My Bond is tight (maybe too tight), but I have lower expectations of the Bond than I do with Leatherman's more expensive tools.  As far as I'm concerned, even if every Bond required an adjustment by the user, they would still be a killer deal for a $50 tool with a 40-year warranty.  I know other folks have different expectations - some much higher, and some even lower.

Edit:  And just to put the cost of the Bond in perspective - I just bought Chick-fil-A for dinner, and the cost for a small family dinner was higher than the cost of a Bond.  Also, the price for a Bond covers only 2 hours of labor for those minimum wage workers.  I wonder what the labor rate is for people making tools at Leatherman.  I'm sure they could spend more time on every tool making sure it was calibrated perfectly, but how many labor hours would that add per tool?  That would certainly raise the cost of a Bond significantly.

[Grant Lamontagne]

You are right- a $50 tool and a $50,000 car are on different levels, but I am talking about a brand being a premium brand, not the individual value.  No matter how you slice it, Leatherman is a premium brand.

That having been said, the Bond is not a $50 tool.  You may be able to get it for $50 in some places (contrary to Leatherman's MAP policy though), but the MSRP for the Bond, from Leatherman's own site is $60-70, not $50.

The Rev is listed at $50, and I haven't handled a Rev yet that came from the factory overly tight.  And I absolutely despise the Rev.

I like the Bond, I just wish it was useable out of the box, and I don't think that's asking too much from a premium brand like Leatherman.

They should be better than "meh, at that price you get what you get."

Def

[SteveC]

 

[LoopCutter]

You are correct!

The REV, WINGMAN, SIDEKICK and even the BOLSTER arrive usable.

My first REBAR, arrived stiff. My second REBAR, a Coyote via Cabela’s was semi usable, but better after a bath to remove BO grit.  My third, a full BO, even after a bath was still, but, not gritty, I recall putting a slice on my index finger attempting to loosen the blade.

My BONDs arrived stiff, my first did loosen up and is today semi tight and usable.  Many I acquired via an auction site for 1/3 or 1/2 of new pricing. Some were tight, others stiff.
My most disappointing BONDS were the color models.  Two Sienna models receive were very stiff. The first was stiff and while exercising the blade, suddenly it was free as a bird. Then saw the associated handle back spring laying on the table.  Amazon replaced promptly.  The second did the same exact thing with 2 hours of opening.

The BOND’s stiffness I now attribute to the tension of the handles backspring and finish of the inside flat surface combined with the implements’s contact surface.

I considered attempting to bend the back spring but choose not to as I believe the material can be brittle and just break. I have had good luck with a wedge between the pivot cams and backspring to relax the spring tension.

For the pliers the tension points appear tight, but mine all arrived dry. Graphite or pivot lube makes motion smoother with some fidgeting cycles. 

I blame my issues with the BOND’s and REBAR’s assembly and QUALITY CONTROL standards.

No issues with the few SIGNALs, or 2 CHARGEs, WAVE or the lone SURGE.

BUT, non are as smooth has my first SuperTool or any of my PSTs (awl via secondary market).

If LM is not seeing expected growth, it just could be result of first time experiences with a REBAR or BOND, maybe even the CURL.

I will share, I have not ever handled a FREE (anything), the ARC or ALPHA and probably never will.

Just my 2 cents.

[Rich_SD]

Ok, $60 - a little more than Chick-fil-A dinner and about 3 hours minimum wage labor.  My point is that the cost of a Bond is peanuts in today's economy, especially since it has a 40-year warranty.  Since the amount and quality of material to make it is about the same as Leatherman tools that cost up to twice as much or more, its lower cost is almost certainly due to it requiring less time/labor to assemble. It's a good guess that they deliberately spend minimal time on each Bond to keep the cost so low.

That said, I would prefer that they spend more time making sure each Bond was adjusted perfectly even when that would raise the cost of the tool.

[Farmer X]

It's like the entry level Lincoln or Cadillac, it's still a Lincoln or Cadillac.  I doubt very much you would expect to pay those kinds of prices from those kinds of brands and then have to make an appointment to go back to the dealership to arrange for them to make it so the doors open properly.

I would expect that from a Cadillac Cimmaron.

I can see both sides of the argument. Bearing in mind that I have never owned or handled a Bond, I can say two things: perhaps it would behoove Leatherman to spend a little more time on the fit and finish, including opening the tool pivot holes up another one or two thousandths of an inch. And I'd be a little more forgiving of stiff tools on a Bond than I would an Arc. Similarly, I can tolerate some gaps between springs and liners on a standard Case knife...but if I spent out for a Tony Bose model, it better not have any gapping whatsoever.