And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

[Heywood Floyd]

Not sure if WWW meant this but would a, dare I say this here ... lol, a Leatherman eg Charge type solution work ie a transverse nodule or knick towards the pivot on the tools body suffice? More specifically like the bit holder tool, or flat screwdriver, scissors etc.

  That is exactly what I meant!! I was also surfing through a Juice related thread so it came to mind immediately.

  BTW that is a beautiful piece of Charge!!

That does have a rugged looking appeal to it eh...

Thanks for the kind words gents. It is a very easy mod. Essentially undo fasteners, re-arrange some tools and voila. Very unlike the skill, problem solving and patience amongst other qualities needed to make Syp007 type mods.
It does have some nice qualities that come along with the turf, like detachable pocket clip, frame locking CPM S-30V blade and the ability to easily changeout the tool sets from those remaining.
Its pretty compact but I've not found any useful solution for the ex plier head pivot space.
Syp007 please do tell us the solution you end up settling on to open the blade carrier.
Thanks also for your continued efforts in sharing the SAK modding journey.

[Syph007]

Dug out some 0.050" Ti today... 

[enki_ck]

[enki_ck]

So do you plan to add a backspring?

Maybe a partial one like on the ct layer so you can have an awl or small blade.

[WWW]

Dug out some 0.050" Ti today... 

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(Image removed from quote.)

 

[Etherealicer]

Dug out some 0.050" Ti today... 

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(Image removed from quote.)

 

91mm lock + custom blade

[PTRSAK]

Good work... I've been sitting on my hands about doing exactly that for a long time... it got knocked up a notch last week when I cut my finger when the blade on my Electrician folded on me.

 I will be with much interest...
and not just to see how you work out the geometry so I don't have to

[Syph007]

Just a prototype for now but if it works I'll build it into a complete mod.  Just going to try with a stock blade to start and Im rearranging the layers to the blade is in the front layer, and you will push with the right thumb to unlock.  Opposite to how the current Vic 111mm works.

Im not sure if I will be able to have a tool with the blade or not.  You know how the blade on a standard pioneer is bent so far it actually sits into the space of the liner.. well this needs a full liner so I dont think it will work.   So it might be a solo spring blade layer, then the rest of the tools.

[MadPlumbarian]

Hmm, very interesting! JR

[Syph007]

Im thinking of a layout like this...

From back to front.

1.  Back scale
2.  Can opener / bottle opener layer
3.  Normal shaped Ti liner
4.  Scissors
5.  Locking liner
6.  Blade
7.  Front scale

[Monrogue]

Im thinking of a layout like this...

From back to front.

1.  Back scale
2.  Can opener / bottle opener layer
3.  Normal shaped Ti liner
4.  Scissors
5.  Locking liner
6.  Blade
7.  Front scale

Sounds cool Syph   I look forward to what you come up with for this

[Etherealicer]

Im thinking of a layout like this...

From back to front.

1.  Back scale
2.  Can opener / bottle opener layer
3.  Normal shaped Ti liner
4.  Scissors
5.  Locking liner
6.  Blade
7.  Front scale

[Syph007]

Well my CNC retrofit kit came today finally!

Now I just have to figure out how to get it all installed, and pick up a driver board.. flood coolant tank and pump.. and a computer to run it.. learn CAD better..

Hopeful by summer I'll get this all sorted or maybe sooner but its COLD in my shop right now.











The ball screws are nice and smooth, BIG upgrade from the stock lead screws.  Apparently I can even get slightly larger balls and repack the nut for even more precision,... but im not at the advanced stage yet.  I'll just be happy to be able to cut 2D parts.

[WWW]

Well my CNC retrofit kit came today finally!

Now I just have to figure out how to get it all installed, and pick up a driver board.. flood coolant tank and pump.. and a computer to run it.. learn CAD better..

Hopeful by summer I'll get this all sorted or maybe sooner but its COLD in my shop right now.


The ball screws are nice and smooth, BIG upgrade from the stock lead screws.  Apparently I can even get slightly larger balls and repack the nut for even more precision,... but im not at the advanced stage yet.  I'll just be happy to be able to cut 2D parts.

  Now you're good for some serious business!!! Can't wait to see what will come out from your shop in the near future!!! 

[enki_ck]

Looking forward to the what you make with these.

[Dr Gonzo]

Syph007 you have to be one of the most dedicated Alox modders ever!!!
I love your work and need to save for one of your mods...
I remember seeing a few of Scibeer's mods that I would have liked to buy but then he retired
One day I'll save......please don't retire

[papercut]

about the scalpel- you could have a raised nail knick ala the scissors on the China sacks. It's not elegant for sure, but it would work.

[Syph007]

Im down to a critically low amount of scissors backsprings for 93mm alox now, so I forced myself to sit down at the computer and work on a new file.  Ver 2.0 of the backspring is pretty much the same, but with some tweaks to make it easier to sand and finish, and also strengthen it.

I was always worried about the strength of the spring over the pivot hole so I beefed that up a bit.  I use a 1/2 inch sanding mandrel to finish the inside edges and it could never get into the tight area near then end where the scissors tip rests so I increased that radius.  The end of the spring that engages the scissors pivot is also slightly thicker which should give the scissors a bit more snap.

Now I have to wait 3-4 weeks for the waterjet, then heat treat, so hopefully in 2 months I should be restocked.

[Etherealicer]

Im down to a critically low amount of scissors backsprings for 93mm alox now, so I forced myself to sit down at the computer and work on a new file.  Ver 2.0 of the backspring is pretty much the same, but with some tweaks to make it easier to sand and finish, and also strengthen it.

I was always worried about the strength of the spring over the pivot hole so I beefed that up a bit.  I use a 1/2 inch sanding mandrel to finish the inside edges and it could never get into the tight area near then end where the scissors tip rests so I increased that radius.  The end of the spring that engages the scissors pivot is also slightly thicker which should give the scissors a bit more snap.

Now I have to wait 3-4 weeks for the waterjet, then heat treat, so hopefully in 2 months I should be restocked.

Ever evolving, I like that.

Oh and what happened to the liner lock?

[papercut]

It's real cold up in the great white north atm. The Others are coming!  Don't begrudge a man for enjoying the comforts of his warm computer during the big freeze of 14.

[Syph007]

It's real cold up in the great white north atm. The Others are coming!  Don't begrudge a man for enjoying the comforts of his warm computer during the big freeze of 14.

yes its crazy cold out there!  I priced a ceiling mounted gas heater but its 1600.  Maybe next winter.

[Etherealicer]

about the scalpel- you could have a raised nail knick ala the scissors on the China sacks. It's not elegant for sure, but it would work.

I just found out that Havalon makes folding scalpels, maybe that is interesting to you.

[Syph007]

Im down to a critically low amount of scissors backsprings for 93mm alox now, so I forced myself to sit down at the computer and work on a new file.  Ver 2.0 of the backspring is pretty much the same, but with some tweaks to make it easier to sand and finish, and also strengthen it.

I was always worried about the strength of the spring over the pivot hole so I beefed that up a bit.  I use a 1/2 inch sanding mandrel to finish the inside edges and it could never get into the tight area near then end where the scissors tip rests so I increased that radius.  The end of the spring that engages the scissors pivot is also slightly thicker which should give the scissors a bit more snap.

Now I have to wait 3-4 weeks for the waterjet, then heat treat, so hopefully in 2 months I should be restocked.

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I had a few emails out for quotes and the lowest one I got was actually a local guy about 20 minutes from here.  I prefer to use local when I can so Im going over to drop the steel off now.  He said 3 weeks.  I'm somewhat nervous trying a new shop but if it works out it will be nice to have a local guy I can trust.  I would then consider using him to cut a bunch of brass liners out as a next test as cutting them manually... SUCKS!

The waterjet pricing is interesting.  It works out to somewhere between 3-6 bucks a part, but it depends on how much taper you can accept on the edges.  For zero taper its the most expensive as the machine has to go the slowest.  Luckily my tolerances are no where near as high as that.  For the cheapest cut price it will only have 0.006" of taper over the 0.110" thickness of the steel.  That is completely acceptible for me, since I will still need to edge finish anyhow.

Now watch my luck as I get 200 new springs in and Vic decides to kill the 93mm alox liner for 2014... 

[crackout]

Will the center hole also be cut by the waterjet or do you drill it yourself?

[Syph007]

Will the center hole also be cut by the waterjet or do you drill it yourself?

Waterjet will cut the hole, but undersized.  Its nice to have it accurately located, but it still needs to be drilled out after heat treat and polished like the other parts. 

[crackout]

Any plans on how you finish the springs? Batch-wise? Or the full lot in an era of eternal darkness?

[Syph007]

Any plans on how you finish the springs? Batch-wise? Or the full lot in an era of eternal darkness?

Well the first time I heat treated these I didnt know to ask for them to be done in a vaccuum.  This time I will so there should be significantly less finish work.

The first batch took ALOT of effort to get one heavily oxidized spring to polished state.



A nice size semi-pro level tumbler can be got for around 5-700.  If the springs need alot of work, I might just go for it and get the tumbler to speed finish them.  But I will wait to see how they are when back from heat treating.

[enki_ck]

Hope it all turns out good. And I wouldn't worry about Vic canceling the 93's. They'll be around for a long time.

And the waterjet pricing looks interesting. I'm thinking of a MTO project that's been on hold for too long.

[Syph007]

Hope it all turns out good. And I wouldn't worry about Vic canceling the 93's. They'll be around for a long time.

And the waterjet pricing looks interesting. I'm thinking of a MTO project that's been on hold for too long.

I went in and dropped off the steel. Im old fashioned with this type of stuff and I really like doing business face to face and being able to discuss the job and other options. 

He was a really nice and knowledgeable fellow so I cant wait to get the parts back.  He said cutting brass liners would be no problem so I'm going to bring in a few square feet of brass next and give that a try.  I looked at his samples of edge finishes for the various tapers and I went with the cheapest option as it looked fine to me.  So I should be just around $3.25 a part if my math is correct.  As long as im under $10 per finished spring Im happy.  The steel was about $200, and im not sure what heat treat will be but I think a finished spring should be around $8.

[Syph007]

Ok...  a few updates.

Orange hard anodized is delayed for another week!   

I got restocked on red parts though. 





I also ground a test blade to try with that liner lock I cut....





It locks up perfectly, BUT there is a problem I didnt see ahead of time.  Can you see the issue?