Hi there Bro... Thought the pic and the SAK looked familiar... Didn't you change the scales to the red coloured plus one?
Welcome to jaya_man That is some awesome mods to come in here with right off the bat They look really good and hope you stick around and show us more later
Quote from: Poncho65 on July 18, 2016, 04:31:40 PMWelcome to jaya_man That is some awesome mods to come in here with right off the bat They look really good and hope you stick around and show us more later Hi Poncho65,Amb definitely planning to Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jaya_man on July 18, 2016, 02:23:36 PMHi there Bro... Thought the pic and the SAK looked familiar... Didn't you change the scales to the red coloured plus one? hello jaya_man! nice to meet you here, of course you know that SAK, you help me to built it right? haha..yep I changed the scale with the red one and that Yeoman ride on my belt everyday.
Welcome j_m , nice work
The Yeoman WS is gorgeous - It's definitely worth putting a Woodsaw in any model.
Quote from: shibafu on June 19, 2016, 12:35:38 PMMy first attempt at an alox mod. It's a Pioneer X with the Syph-style inline Phillips + 2 openers layer, and 91mm scissors (nail-nick on the normal side!), and black-with-red-shield scales from a Pioneer.I made a few mistakes and I'm not 100% happy with the results - but it works and it was a good learning experience. The action on the phillips and scissors are a bit rough, and the phillips sits a little higher than I'd like.Good job.Now you just need some brass liners and your all set. I have one much the same as yours Robert made for me.
My first attempt at an alox mod. It's a Pioneer X with the Syph-style inline Phillips + 2 openers layer, and 91mm scissors (nail-nick on the normal side!), and black-with-red-shield scales from a Pioneer.I made a few mistakes and I'm not 100% happy with the results - but it works and it was a good learning experience. The action on the phillips and scissors are a bit rough, and the phillips sits a little higher than I'd like.
Quote from: HarleyXJGuy on July 11, 2016, 03:31:49 AMYeah I always wondered why the Compact with less tools cost more then some SAKs with more.My friend just bought new Compact a week ago for his mod. It's about IDR 488.000 here (US$ 37.5). Thin SAK with lots of function, maybe that's the cause.Sent from my SM-J500G using Tapatalk
Yeah I always wondered why the Compact with less tools cost more then some SAKs with more.
Quote from: classicrock on July 11, 2016, 03:46:25 AMQuote from: HarleyXJGuy on July 11, 2016, 03:31:49 AMYeah I always wondered why the Compact with less tools cost more then some SAKs with more.My friend just bought new Compact a week ago for his mod. It's about IDR 488.000 here (US$ 37.5). Thin SAK with lots of function, maybe that's the cause.Sent from my SM-J500G using TapatalkThat friend of yours sounds familiar... Ayway, think I may have just won an auction for a used Compact over the local 2nd hand market... Not bad for a little over usd 15 incl. delivery... Fingers crossed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Will switching the in-line phillips and openers to the opposite side of the layer cause any problems?
Quote from: jaya_man on July 18, 2016, 05:18:45 PMWill switching the in-line phillips and openers to the opposite side of the layer cause any problems?You could certainly do that, but I think it might become a bit difficult to reach the nail nick on the can opener. It would be facing the high end of the blade.
That friend of yours sounds familiar... Ayway, think I may have just won an auction for a used Compact over the local 2nd hand market... Not bad for a little over usd 15 incl. delivery... Fingers crossed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jaya_man on July 18, 2016, 07:13:25 PMThat friend of yours sounds familiar... Ayway, think I may have just won an auction for a used Compact over the local 2nd hand market... Not bad for a little over usd 15 incl. delivery... Fingers crossed Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHaha nice score jaya_man. Nice price for a mod donor. So what's next? Sent from my SM-J500G using Tapatalk
Quote from: shibafu on July 18, 2016, 08:57:35 PMQuote from: jaya_man on July 18, 2016, 05:18:45 PMWill switching the in-line phillips and openers to the opposite side of the layer cause any problems?You could certainly do that, but I think it might become a bit difficult to reach the nail nick on the can opener. It would be facing the high end of the blade.It would also put the can opener in the middle of the tool, which might make it hard to open some cans.Oh, and welcome aboard J_M. Always good to have another modder around.
Hey guys, coming out of lurking to present my idea and ask for tips and any heads-ups for issues I might encounter. I have 3 donor knives that I'm wanting to turn into 2 custom knives.The donors (I got these all used for cheapish prices):Swisschamp (short phillips/clear plastic mag and stainless metal file, so...newest version I guess) with USA flag scales $35 Compact with red nylon scales $8.70Outrider (phillips/camo version 55731) with nasty chip in main blade $17 (was listed as a OH Trekker....come on now people)I want to make one 91mm "main" multi-tool as my EDC and alternative (hopefully a little thinner) to a Swisschamp. Mainly used for working on bicycles and music gear, cutting moleskin and tape, fixing all types of gadgets on the go, often in urban environments. The tools would be (not particular layer order yet):•Pen Blade across from Nail file (from Compact) - Thinking about replacing the outer plate that has the little raised section (for the modern/thinner main blade) with a flat one, and using both of the little spacers that come with the pen blade/nail fail and keeping the spring standard thickness...but not sure how this would mesh together...basically trying to get pen blade and nail file in the same layer. EDIT: to clarify, there would be no large blade at all•Cap Lifter across from Can Opener•Pliers•Scissors•Metal file/saw (stainless/latest version)•Inline Phillips (preferably longer one from a gray mag glass knife, shorter version if fit requires) across from Inline Fine Phillips (from scissor layer on the Outrider) - This is obviously the wonkiest part of the design. Looking at the 91mm phillips/mag glass spring, I see there is a cutout on the spring for the mag glass to tuck into...so i thought maybe I could put the IL Phillips (regular size one) on the mag glass end of the spring and then put the Fine Inline Phillps on the other end and it could tuck down into that pocket where the mag glass normally sits. Obviously I'd also need a spacer since the Fine Inline Phillips is the thickness of scissors (not sure if 110mm scissors are the same thickness as 91mm scissors). If I can't find a way to re-grind the Fine Phillips, then I'm thinking of just hacking it down into a backside tool (removing the original tang completely)Back tools would be corkscrew, awl, fine slotted, chisel, then hook in order of preference depending on what springs I have to use to make it work.The other knife would be my 110mm "campsite" knife mainly for food/beverages and firewood and whhhilderness adventures:•Can/Bottle Layer•Main Blade (bottom half serrated to get rid of that nick and help with cutting ropes, top half plain for cutting potatoes and enemy ninjas)•Wood Saw (figure I don't need this unless I'm around a camp fire and from what I've seen the 110mm saw is a little nicer length for actually sawing things)•Cork Screw (from Compact) -will the corkscrew from the Compact work on a 110mm knife? I'm thinking it's the same.•Nylon Scales (by default for this size, but also because it's gonna get tossed around a bit) -are the nylon scales better for re-use than cellador? I'm thinking the nylon material would chip away less when pulling the scales off, leaving a tighter fit when re-attaching.In both cases I'm thinking I could re-use the pins, but I'm not sure if the 91mm build would be thinner ENOUGH than a standard Swisschamp.Alternately I was thinking of just tapping one side and reattaching the factory busings to the brass pins with screws (that would be hidden once the scales go on). Another option are these nice copper SwissB plus scales I see...says they need to be epoxied...but I'm thinking of drilling and countersinking them ala Alox mods (though still using the outer plates). If I did this, is there a thickness of interally-threaded tube that I can just slide in to replace the brass pins? or would I have to re-drill everything for bigger holes?I've read that the OH series of 110mm knives have bigger pins than the regular 110mm knives..but how do the pins from the 110m knives compare to 91mm knives? Will the hole in the Fine Inline Phillips (from the Outrider) be larger than the holes in the tools from the Swisschamp?When using etching solvents, do you apply nail polish or resist-ink to the holes on all the tools? (I'm thinking that the holes are drilled precisely and etching could slightly erode the holes, making a looser fit on the pins...I really love how precisely machined the teeth are on the pliers...so I'm thinking I wanna cover that all up before dipping...did any of you have to re-peen the scissors after acid/circuitboard sollution-ing them? I'm wondering if they still fit as tightly together after the dip.Thanks guys...love this thread as well as one I saw where it's all coffee and SAKs...so awesome. Love all these builds and ideas.
Just realized from your pics that you may have an 84mm Sportsman instead of a 91mm Compact Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven't tried it out myself... Am fond of the combo tool on the Compact... As well as its hook with file...
At the minimum, the pivot hole on the file needs to be drilled to 2.5mm
I want to make one 91mm "main" multi-tool as my EDC and alternative (hopefully a little thinner) to a Swisschamp. Mainly used for working on bicycles and music gear, cutting moleskin and tape, fixing all types of gadgets on the go, often in urban environments. The tools would be (not particular layer order yet):•Pen Blade across from Nail file (from Compact) - Thinking about replacing the outer plate that has the little raised section (for the modern/thinner main blade) with a flat one, and using both of the little spacers that come with the pen blade/nail fail and keeping the spring standard thickness...but not sure how this would mesh together...basically trying to get pen blade and nail file in the same layer. EDIT: to clarify, there would be no large blade at all•Cap Lifter across from Can Opener•Pliers•Scissors•Metal file/saw (stainless/latest version)•Inline Phillips
The other knife would be my 110mm "campsite" knife mainly for food/beverages and firewood and whhhilderness adventures:•Can/Bottle Layer•Main Blade (bottom half serrated to get rid of that nick and help with cutting ropes, top half plain for cutting potatoes and enemy ninjas)•Wood Saw (figure I don't need this unless I'm around a camp fire and from what I've seen the 110mm saw is a little nicer length for actually sawing things)•Cork Screw (from Compact) -will the corkscrew from the Compact work on a 110mm knife? I'm thinking it's the same.•Nylon Scales (by default for this size, but also because it's gonna get tossed around a bit) -are the nylon scales better for re-use than cellador? I'm thinking the nylon material would chip away less when pulling the scales off, leaving a tighter fit when re-attaching.
Don't really know if anybody has shared this before in the forums, but thought I'd just share it anyway... An Autopsy of a Swisschamp... (Image removed from quote.)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is the tool on the lower right of the pic what you meant? Hmmm... Might be a tall order putting that as an inline tool...(Image removed from quote.)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here's one I made a while back which is close to what you're aiming for:Deluxe Modeler, or Swisschamp with the saw and scaler removed. You should be able to re-use the pins as long as you're careful drilling the heads off. It might be possible to put the metal saw/file opposite the small blade - something I've been meanign to try for a while, but not got round to. I don't think the Compact hook/nail file will work at all on the front side of the knife, but the Cadet/Sportsman file should fit in place of the small blade.
This is an existing model: the Rucksack, though you'll need to add your own serrations.
Quote from: hiraethus on July 20, 2016, 09:52:05 AMHere's one I made a while back which is close to what you're aiming for:Deluxe Modeler, or Swisschamp with the saw and scaler removed. You should be able to re-use the pins as long as you're careful drilling the heads off. It might be possible to put the metal saw/file opposite the small blade - something I've been meanign to try for a while, but not got round to. I don't think the Compact hook/nail file will work at all on the front side of the knife, but the Cadet/Sportsman file should fit in place of the small blade.That would be a model I'd want to collect for sure...black scales feel right for that one too, I always feel like the SAK is wearing a little tux with those black scales.MS opposite small blade...hmmm...using spacers on both tools on a layer that's wider than either of them? Like putting the MS in the large blade slot?I have another question about MS, WS, and scaler...on my Champs I see the fish scaler and wood saw sharing a layer, and the scaler has no back tool. They each have a spring, so the springs are against each other, and the side of the back tool is resting against the spring of the scaler.If I was going to have WS and MS (no scaler) right next to each other, would I need anything between them?...not sure how they do it on knives that only have those 2 of the 3. It would mean the back tools - chisel and fine flathead - would also be rubbing against each other and "torqueing"/twisting in the case of the screwdriver. Also I see the thickest plate on the Champs is between MS and WS, and it has no cutout at all, as if to say the WS and MS must not ever touch...Quote from: hiraethus on July 20, 2016, 09:52:05 AMThis is an existing model: the Rucksack, though you'll need to add your own serrations.Ah...I will definitely mention that in the upcoming teardown/build (aka "bloopers reel") video. I'm still pretty lost on the 110 and 58 model names...I was considering the Hercules for a while, then S557 (pre and post Vic versions), but I feel like I prefer my "toolsy" SAKs at 91mm, then just blades at 110mm. Seems a little silly to have that ergonomic handle and then a 20 layer knife...which of course now I want to see and buy. That WorkchampXL is pretty crazy but seemed like mostly just funny shaped blades were added.
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