And so it begins.... (My adventures into Alox!)

buck · **Reply #2700 on:** April 29, 2015, 06:07:24 PM

Can you add an in line awl to a first mate?

Syph007 · **Reply #2701 on:** April 29, 2015, 06:15:20 PM

Quote from: buck on April 29, 2015, 06:07:24 PM

Can you add an in line awl to a first mate?

I have but its not easy. The awl really only fits correctly with a main blade in a layer. So a dual main blade SAK works well, but it woudl have to drop the opener layer.

buck · **Reply #2702 on:** April 30, 2015, 11:24:57 AM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 29, 2015, 06:15:20 PM

Quote from: buck on April 29, 2015, 06:07:24 PM
Can you add an in line awl to a first mate?

I have but its not easy. The awl really only fits correctly with a main blade in a layer. So a dual main blade SAK works well, but it would have to drop the opener layer.

Please explain (or point me to a thread or link that explains). Alos PM sent regarding custom alox.

pfrsantos · **Reply #2703 on:** April 30, 2015, 12:55:31 PM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 26, 2015, 02:35:22 PM

USA alox color scheme.

(Image removed from quote.)

Huh... Shouldn't it be red, white and blue, then? This is white, red and blue. Or blue, red and white...

Syph007 · **Reply #2704 on:** April 30, 2015, 02:33:50 PM

Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 11:24:57 AM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 29, 2015, 06:15:20 PM
Quote from: buck on April 29, 2015, 06:07:24 PM
Can you add an in line awl to a first mate?

I have but its not easy. The awl really only fits correctly with a main blade in a layer. So a dual main blade SAK works well, but it would have to drop the opener layer.

Please explain (or point me to a thread or link that explains). Alos PM sent regarding custom alox.

Since 93mm alox are symmetrical you can flip a blade layer around and put it where the opener layer normally is. Thats the only clean way to have awl and spike.

I also put one on opposite mag glass before, but it was a heck of a feat getting that layer to work.

buck · **Reply #2705 on:** April 30, 2015, 02:38:18 PM

Freakin' beautiful! I want one except with a pruner blade instead of electrician.

Syph007 · **Reply #2706 on:** April 30, 2015, 02:54:21 PM

Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 02:38:18 PM

Freakin' beautiful! I want one except with a pruner blade instead of electrician.

That wouldnt work in the above config. I had to shorten the eblade to get it to fit and that mag glass is already shortened as well. Not possible to shorten a pruner.

HarleyXJGuy · **Reply #2707 on:** April 30, 2015, 05:32:52 PM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 30, 2015, 02:33:50 PM

Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 11:24:57 AM
Quote from: Syph007 on April 29, 2015, 06:15:20 PM
Quote from: buck on April 29, 2015, 06:07:24 PM
Can you add an in line awl to a first mate?

I have but its not easy. The awl really only fits correctly with a main blade in a layer. So a dual main blade SAK works well, but it would have to drop the opener layer.

Please explain (or point me to a thread or link that explains). Alos PM sent regarding custom alox.

Since 93mm alox are symmetrical you can flip a blade layer around and put it where the opener layer normally is. Thats the only clean way to have awl and spike.

I also put one on opposite mag glass before, but it was a heck of a feat getting that layer to work.

(Image removed from quote.)

Please say this is a picture of mag glass /awl layer.

If so I think it is the final part of my big custom puzzle.

I lost trac of the last conversation about Cybertool on a 93 mm so let me try and ask it simple like.

Can the Bit driver be put on a custom 93mm with something to hold the bit in place? The regular black plastic bit is fine or something custom has to be done up?

Thanks.

buck · **Reply #2708 on:** April 30, 2015, 05:49:57 PM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 30, 2015, 02:54:21 PM

Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 02:38:18 PM
Freakin' beautiful! I want one except with a pruner blade instead of electrician.

That wouldnt work in the above config. I had to shorten the eblade to get it to fit and that mag glass is already shortened as well. Not possible to shorten a pruner.

E blade it is then pm sent.

zoidberg · **Reply #2709 on:** May 01, 2015, 01:33:07 AM

Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 05:49:57 PM

Quote from: Syph007 on April 30, 2015, 02:54:21 PM
Quote from: buck on April 30, 2015, 02:38:18 PM
Freakin' beautiful! I want one except with a pruner blade instead of electrician.

That wouldnt work in the above config. I had to shorten the eblade to get it to fit and that mag glass is already shortened as well. Not possible to shorten a pruner.

E blade it is then pm sent.

Do you really want the mag glass?
Not wanting to confuse you and not even sure if it fits but maybe drop the E blade and replace the mag glass with the P blade?

Syph007 · **Reply #2710 on:** May 04, 2015, 11:36:04 PM

Finally something other than black!

Syph007 · **Reply #2711 on:** May 04, 2015, 11:55:30 PM

And some apocoloxy moddin' too

captain spaulding · **Reply #2712 on:** May 05, 2015, 12:04:33 AM

The Apocalypse green one is

mrynnr · **Reply #2713 on:** May 05, 2015, 12:18:25 AM

Whoa!

Monrogue · **Reply #2714 on:** May 05, 2015, 01:58:46 AM

Nice ones Syph!

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

tallowwaters · **Reply #2715 on:** May 05, 2015, 04:19:15 AM

*greedy palm rubbing*

HarleyXJGuy · **Reply #2716 on:** May 05, 2015, 02:09:21 PM

That green is pretty cool.

buck · **Reply #2717 on:** May 05, 2015, 03:42:29 PM

Awesome configuration!

If, say you didn't want the red shield because it clashed with apocalox now!, could that be nodded out?

Syph007 · **Reply #2718 on:** May 05, 2015, 03:43:08 PM

Quote from: buck on May 05, 2015, 03:42:29 PM

Awesome configuration!

If, say you didn't want the red shield because it clashed with apocalox now!, could that be nodded out?

The whole thing would need to be stripped and re-anodized to do that.

HarleyXJGuy · **Reply #2719 on:** May 05, 2015, 05:14:12 PM

Quote from: buck on May 05, 2015, 03:42:29 PM

Awesome configuration!

If, say you didn't want the red shield because it clashed with apocalox now!, could that be nodded out?

tomcat · **Reply #2720 on:** May 06, 2015, 02:09:52 AM

Would you/can you do copper scales and/or liners?

Asking because they'd look AMAZING with either green or black

wmoco · **Reply #2721 on:** May 06, 2015, 02:24:26 AM

Quote from: tomcat on May 06, 2015, 02:09:52 AM

Would you/can you do copper scales and/or liners?

Asking because they'd look AMAZING with either green or black

Copper rusts/degrades extremely fast. Could last a month in good condition, a week if you live at the coast.

wjruth · **Reply #2722 on:** May 06, 2015, 04:51:18 PM

Quote from: wmoco on May 06, 2015, 02:24:26 AM

Quote from: tomcat on May 06, 2015, 02:09:52 AM
Would you/can you do copper scales and/or liners?

Asking because they'd look AMAZING with either green or black

Copper rusts/degrades extremely fast. Could last a month in good condition, a week if you live at the coast.

If that's the case, you better send me every penny you have and you should never look at the statue of liberty.
Copper develops a patina which is a reaction to the atmosphere. Aluminum does the same thing but it doesn't get the pretty colors.
Copper is harder than aluminum but softer than nickel. As a liner, brass would be better than straight copper.

Syph007 · **Reply #2723 on:** May 06, 2015, 04:55:32 PM

Quote from: wjruth on May 06, 2015, 04:51:18 PM

Quote from: wmoco on May 06, 2015, 02:24:26 AM
Quote from: tomcat on May 06, 2015, 02:09:52 AM
Would you/can you do copper scales and/or liners?

Asking because they'd look AMAZING with either green or black

Copper rusts/degrades extremely fast. Could last a month in good condition, a week if you live at the coast.
If that's the case, you better send me every penny you have and you should never look at the statue of liberty.
Copper develops a patina which is a reaction to the atmosphere. Aluminum does the same thing but it doesn't get the pretty colors.
Copper is harder than aluminum but softer than nickel. As a liner, brass would be better than straight copper.

Ya you could put copper on exterior, but it would not make a good liner material. Once its oxidized it would not allow the tools to slip over it's surface very smoothly. I love working with brass, but I have worked with copper a few times. Not a big fan of it, but its ok. It oxidizes very quickly compared to brass worked the same way. Brass takes a couple years, copper a couple of weeks for the shine to go away and start oxidizing.